Which Bay Island?

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scarus

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body-Pacific Northwest; heart-Caribbean
Hello well-travelled divers,

My husband, who is a relatively new diver but an otherwise experienced waterman and has spent a lot of time trekking around Mexico, El Salvador, and northern Guatemala, and I, who worked as a divemaster at a marine science facility in the Bahamas for several years, and also have dived in Mexico, Belize, and the Pacific Northwest (yikes, drysuit PLEASE before I do much more of that!), are going to Honduras to dive the last two weeks of June (well, we'll dive one week, and do whatever strikes our fancy on shore between La Ceiba and Guatemala City for the other).

So, our big question-- Which island? :06:

Price is a factor only in that we are ruling out the very high end (yeah, I know, that's vague). Dive quality is extremely important (competent, safe dive leaders & boats, interesting & varied sites, small groups, etc.). We'd also like to snorkel from shore wherever we end up staying (and yes, will check for sewage discharges on the beach first!). We would like to do a little fishing (flats? bonefish? tarpon?) also. We'd maybe like to bike around the island in our topside hours if possible (maybe Utila is too small for biking?). We're not hardcore partiers and want to avoid that scene, although we do enjoy a cold beer with a few other interesting folks, be they local residents or other travellers. (We're in our early-mid thirties). We'll probably ferry from the mainland to wherever we end up going.

Since it should be the low season, I don't feel especially compelled to book a whole week somewhere in advance, although I would if I felt confident in any one particular place. I'd love lodging recommendations. I'd also take dive operator recommendations, although that I figure we'll scope out after we get there. Hey, I'd even take dive site recommendations!

Thanks in advance for any and all input, and to anyone headed to the Exumas, lucky you!
 
scarus:
So, our big question-- Which island? :06:

Price is a factor only in that we are ruling out the very high end (yeah, I know, that's vague). Dive quality is extremely important (competent, safe dive leaders & boats, interesting & varied sites, small groups, etc.). We'd also like to snorkel from shore wherever we end up staying (and yes, will check for sewage discharges on the beach first!). We would like to do a little fishing (flats? bonefish? tarpon?) also. We'd maybe like to bike around the island in our topside hours if possible (maybe Utila is too small for biking?). We're not hardcore partiers and want to avoid that scene, although we do enjoy a cold beer with a few other interesting folks, be they local residents or other travellers. (We're in our early-mid thirties). We'll probably ferry from the mainland to wherever we end up going.

Since it should be the low season, I don't feel especially compelled to book a whole week somewhere in advance, although I would if I felt confident in any one particular place. I'd love lodging recommendations. I'd also take dive operator recommendations, although that I figure we'll scope out after we get there. Hey, I'd even take dive site recommendations!

Thanks in advance for any and all input, and to anyone headed to the Exumas, lucky you!

The only place with real shore diving is CoCoView.

Is an AI with all food, room and all boat and shore diving "expensive" at $95-$120/night? (depending on season) or would you rather pay that much and more ala carte from a West End location?

They offer fishing trips from the resort. If you want the best in the Bay Islands, it's either CCV on Roatan or the Utila Lodge.

If you were really looking for adventure, and it looks like you both understand the term :D , try a look at Barbaretta, the island just E of the tip of Roatan. Google it.

Roatan would be about the only venue for cycling- unsure if anyone rents them. The road ends pretty quickly in Utila, depending on your deffinition of "road". Guanaja's "streets" are what we call piers (at least on Bonacca Key, the population center). There are no roads (or much else) other than "Pepper's" resort on Barbareta, ditto for Cayos Cochinos or Swan (Cisne).

Is that what you had in mind?
 
Although not as touristy as Roatan, we thought the diving was more interesting in Utila. If you have time, you might want to split between the two islands. We did the ferry between Utila and Roatan, and although not direct, it was a fun ride. Nicer than most ferries in the US! We dove with Utila Dive Center and highly recommend them.
 
Touristy bad, interesting diving good! Split our time? I like it--definitely a good idea to think about. Thanks for the Utila Dive Ctr. recommendation.


oceancat:
Although not as touristy as Roatan, we thought the diving was more interesting in Utila. If you have time, you might want to split between the two islands. We did the ferry between Utila and Roatan, and although not direct, it was a fun ride. Nicer than most ferries in the US! We dove with Utila Dive Center and highly recommend them.
 
$95-120/night AI is upper limit but in the "will consider" range (we're going to Honduras 'cause we couldn't afford the originally planned Fiji trip--at least until we have enough frequent flier miles :snorkel: , so we figure we can be relatively spendy for a week since the airfare is so much less!).

Barbaretta sounds really interesting--will check it out, thanks for the tip.

cycling is not at all important, just something to do.

Know much about Guanaja? My impression from web surfing is relatively exclusive AI resorts. Diving quality?

Thanks again!



RoatanMan:
The only place with real shore diving is CoCoView.

Is an AI with all food, room and all boat and shore diving "expensive" at $95-$120/night? (depending on season) or would you rather pay that much and more ala carte from a West End location?

They offer fishing trips from the resort. If you want the best in the Bay Islands, it's either CCV on Roatan or the Utila Lodge.

If you were really looking for adventure, and it looks like you both understand the term :D , try a look at Barbaretta, the island just E of the tip of Roatan. Google it.

Roatan would be about the only venue for cycling- unsure if anyone rents them. The road ends pretty quickly in Utila, depending on your deffinition of "road". Guanaja's "streets" are what we call piers (at least on Bonacca Key, the population center). There are no roads (or much else) other than "Pepper's" resort on Barbareta, ditto for Cayos Cochinos or Swan (Cisne).

Is that what you had in mind?
 
I spent a week in Utilla, went diving every day for nine days and loved it. I saw seahorses, whale sharks and spawning sponges. Checked out several dive shops and decided on Utila Dive Centre. They were very professional, had three boats and did more daily trips than many of the other shops.
You can spend as much or as little as you want on Utila. It's real laid back and easy to meet people in their 20s and 30s. People go out to bars, but then the island's electricity goes off at midnight, so you won't have people raging until dawn. From what I've heard, Roatan is fancier and has good shore diving. You won't find much of that on Utila, but the boat rides are short.
There was a retired American school teacher building the most fanciful hotel on the road up from the dock before the Mango Inn. It should be finished by now. It is whimsical and artistically designed, like a child's dream. I only wish I knew the name. I bet you could find it in a more recent guidebook. But I would look into staying there.
Oh, and spend a day on Water Caye. It is the prettiest little patch of sand around.
Happy travels!
Hapadiver
 
scarus:
$95-120/night AI is upper limit but in the "will consider" range (
Know much about Guanaja? My impression from web surfing is relatively exclusive AI resorts. Diving quality?
Guanaja lies about 17 miles EastNE of Roatan, and about 37 miles from RTB airport. Look at Posada del Sol as an established resort, there is also the End of the World and Nautilus. EOW is on Bonacca Key and Nautilus is at Dunbar Rock, which is about as cool as a resort can get. I wouldn't bother with any op on Bonacca Key, but maybe that's just me. It's like a big pier city.

PSD is on the S side of the main body of Guanaja, altho the population center lives on Bonacca Key (a hi spot in the ocean just S of the island)

My only time in Guanaja was just after Mitch while looking for lost ships and assisting the recovery efforts. Dove the Jado once and did some recreational diving during much better viz in years previous. With your experience- I would go do Guanaja, see it now before it becomes ultra modern like Roatan :D

If you want simple and maximum diving with great serenity and a constantly available world class shore dive, your parameters of cost do fit CoCoView of Roatan nicely.
 
My husband and I love Roatan and go often. We are not big fans of the all inclusive resorts (nothing wrong with them, but they just don't fit with the way we like to travel). We were there in March and stayed at Seagrape plantation and dove with Native Sons. We were very happy with both and would use them again. Seagrape is $30-50 dollars per night and Native Sons is $15 per dive over 10 dives. There is a large variety of choices in West End- try roatanet.com for more information. Captain Vans rents mountain bikes and there are lots of restaurants and shops within walking distance of West End. This also alows you to be more flexible if you want to try Utila as well. Have fun!
 
mjnansen:
My husband and I love Roatan and go often. We are not big fans of the all inclusive resorts (nothing wrong with them, but they just don't fit with the way we like to travel). We were there in March and stayed at Seagrape plantation and dove with Native Sons. We were very happy with both and would use them again. Seagrape is $30-50 dollars per night and Native Sons is $15 per dive over 10 dives. There is a large variety of choices in West End- try roatanet.com for more information. Captain Vans rents mountain bikes and there are lots of restaurants and shops within walking distance of West End. This also alows you to be more flexible if you want to try Utila as well. Have fun!

The flexibility of the many options of West End are inviting to many. For other, less travelled readers I offer a mathematical comparison. Based on the numbers provided above by the well travelled :flag: mjnansen, and comparing to an AI such as CoCoView, here's the breakdown...

AI (CCV is an 'all inclusive' example) $750-850/week {figuring to $107-120/day} you get all three meals, a room on stilts over the reef, unlimited great real shore diving, the best boats (4 tanks per day), and more stuff 'just designed for divers'. (Other AI's could be compared to this as a standard, there are times that FIBR is being given away- but you get what you pay for.)

Ala Carte? (West End and Sea Grape example) A first level on- shore room would be $50, four dives a day would be $60 making a total (so far) of $110... then there's food. Remember this is a Caribbean Island with prices for food that one might expect. And then there's the time to acquire it as well as the transfer time to and from the dive op. If you are there to dive-this option is going to cost you some serious Lempira$. Most can't eat for $10 a day much less for $20.

A lot of it depends on what you want. Do you want access to diving AND the social :cheers: scene? On Roatan, as in most dive destinations, you just can't have both. The West End offers the best possible option to achieve this equilibrium, but as with most comprimises, it is just that.

I still like the West End a lot- It is WNW of the Airport by 8 miles and it has some of the best restaurants such as Garden of Eatin :chineese: and Argentine Grille. (the other same quality and more North American style eateries are Geo's, Romeo's and the French Harbour Yacht Club- located 8 miles E of the Airport in French Harbor)

If I'm dragging all that way, I'm coming to dive. The island culture is all but transparent, now eclipsed by a Jamaica Mon clone version. Honduran beer is just beer, Roatan diving can be incredible.

It's like comparing bananas to plantains! :cwmddd:
 
I think West Bay on Roatan would be your best bet. This would offer you the best snorkling right from your hotel/beach. West Bay is really close to West End (you can take along walk between the two). West Bay is little more expensive/upscale than West End but that time of year you should be able to get a nice place on the ocean for $35-$60 / night. There are more restaurants/bars in West End. The diving is a 5 minute boat right straight out from the beach. Nice lazy town with a sand road. I'd also recomend spending a night in Pico Bonito national park doing a canopy tour.

Utilla does not have snorkling or a beach near the hotels (all a little junky). It is a good place to see whale sharks but not at that time of year. They paved the road on the island too : (
 
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