Underwater settings for 5050?

So I will be diving in Bermuda next week. I am awaiting my PT-015 and am looking foward to taking some underwater shots. I have only experimented with Apeture and Shutter modes, but not my personal modes. Any suggested setting for underwater shots?

I learned how to add red to my pics if I use the program settings using Photoshop. But I'd like to capture it right off the bat.

If you are not using a strobe, I have had the best luck just shooting on P. It usually adapts to the shot and gives you realistic color (as realistic as you can get with the camera's flash thru the housing). Most shots will be a little on the dark side, but that is expected (and can be moderately corrected in photoshop). The only additional thought is just be aware that any shot of more than 3' distance will be blue.... no matter the camera.

The setting that I like to use is 1/125 and f5.6...it works weel for the close up stuff, at depth, when using the strobe. But your settings will always change due to the availble light conditions. If possible take 2 or 3 pictures of the same thing with different settings until you get the hang of it.

Have a nice vacation!
Aloha,
Lisa

I have no strobe. If it is nice out I expect there to be sufficient light since most Bermuda diving is not past 40ft. However, my firend and I took pics in Cozumel with a 5050 and the pics were very blue. That's why I would like to create my own mode.

I also just heard about a filter type piece that adds red to my u/w pics.

2 Bar:

I have no strobe. If it is nice out I expect there to be sufficient light since most Bermuda diving is not past 40ft. However, my firend and I took pics in Cozumel with a 5050 and the pics were very blue. That's why I would like to create my own mode.

I also just heard about a filter type piece that adds red to my u/w pics.

Click to expand...

I know virtually nothing about my 5050 yet. I too returned from Cozumel recently with alot of blue photos, well except for those taken in the swim-thrus where the flash went off. I shot in P mode, no strobe. I need to practice, but if I were getting on another plane to Cozumel in the morning (don't I wish) I would set the flash to always go off.

To get the most out of your camera you need to use Manual Mode, not Auto, when it comes to underwater photos.
YOU have to take the photo, not the camera.

The internal strobe is good for Macro shots under 3 feet and even better at 2 feet.

As for the non-strobe shots, Manual White balance will yield the best results, not blue results. That means you have to calibrate your White Balance off a clean white dive slate at the depth you are taking the photos. When you edit them in Photoshop or the like you will see great results without using the "mandrake process" which puts red back in the photo.

It all boils down to knowing your camera inside and out and being able to change the settings quickly and efficiently to suit the needs of the target.

The use of a filter is, and remains controversial. I did a quick comparison on a recent dive and saw very little difference in using a filter. The test was not scientific but the results are here.
There are those that argue whatever results a filter can yield underwater so can a software program after the fact. I can't answer that one but I personally see no need to carry a filter when the end results for me are as shown on my example.

http://www.splashdowndivers.com/photo_gallery/underwater_photography/up_settings.htm

Good site for settings.

Thanks. I guess I'll use the settings from splashdown, and also use a combo of white balance/photoshop. We'll see how it goes. My first dive is scheduled for Tueday, so I have some time to check things out.

Gilligan, great site. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and resources.

Gilligan:

As for the non-strobe shots, Manual White balance will yield the best results, not blue results. That means you have to calibrate your White Balance off a clean white dive slate at the depth you are taking the photos. When you edit them in Photoshop or the like you will see great results without using the "mandrake process" which puts red back in the photo.

Click to expand...

Just to add my experience. When you take a picture of large distant object using WB (like wreck) you should calibrate WB not to white slate but to water itself i.e. turn the camera to "blue" at the dept of taking the picture and calibrate WB. This will better compensate the distance and lack of red. Of course, in such case using WAL will help you much.