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dvleemin
November 1st, 2004, 02:51 PM
Hi,
I just added dry glove rings to my wife's suit, and I noticed a tiny tiny hole in the latex seal. I was wondering what the best way to repair that is. Rubber cement with rubber patch?

What do all the experts out there do? :)

Darryl

wsparks
November 1st, 2004, 02:59 PM
I just repaired my dry gloves on my DUI suit. I used aquaseal mixed with cotol 240. The Aquaseal by itself will work it just takes longer to cure without the cotol 240. 8 hours versus 2 hours. Just mix it up and apply liberally to the hole. If you can apply the mixture both inside and outside the glove for a stronger seal.

On the Aquaseal a helpful hint, after the first use place the tube in the frig. Otherwise it will harden at the opening and the next time you need it will be a pain to get thru the hardened stuff at the neck of the tube.

Oh yea, I used the cotol 240 to clean the glove area before applying the mixture.

dvleemin
November 1st, 2004, 03:01 PM
I just repaired my dry gloves on my DUI suit. I used aquaseal mixed with cotol 240. The Aquaseal by itself will work it just takes longer to cure without the cotol 240. 8 hours versus 2 hours. Just mix it up and apply liberally to the hole. If you can apply the mixture both inside and outside the glove for a stronger seal.

On the Aquaseal a helpful hint, after the first use place the tube in the frig. Otherwise it will harden at the opening and the next time you need it will be a pain to get thru the hardened stuff at the neck of the tube.

Oh yea, I used the cotol 240 to clean the glove area before applying the mixture.

What's cotol 240?

wsparks
November 1st, 2004, 03:04 PM
LOL, you threw me on that one. So, I had to cheat.. Since you are up North you should be able to find this at any Dive Store, or on-line, depending on your preference...

Cotol-240™ Cleaner & Cure Accelerator is a urethane cure accelerator and pre-cleaner to be used in conjunction with Aquaseal® or Aquasure™. The solvent cleans and prepares the surface, readying it for Aquaseal® or Aquasure™, speeding the tack time to 15 minutes and the full cure time to less than two hours. Cotol-240 is also ideal for removing tar, sap, glue, and other resins from various surfaces including glass, plastic and metal. Available in ½ oz. Blister Pack, 4 oz. and Quart (not shown).

Cotol-240™ Directions for use with Aquaseal® or Aquasure™ Urethane Repair Adhesive and Sealant:

AS PRECLEANER:

Apply a small amount to the damaged area (spot test for colorfastness).
Rub with a clean cloth until dry.
Repeat steps 1 and 2.
Apply Aquasure as directed.
Note: for best adhesion, first roughen non-fabric surfaces with sandpaper.
AS CURE ACCELERATOR:

Thoroughly mix 1 part cure accelerator with 3–4 parts Aquaseal® or Aquasure™ using a stick, toothpick, or knife. Mix on a non-absorbent surface such as a plastic lid or plate.
Immediately apply the mixture to the damaged area.
Allow the repair to completely cure at least 2 hours before using.
FOR COLORS: Mix food coloring or paint colorant (available at paint stores) into the Aquasure and cure accelerator before applying.

CLEAN-UP: To remove Aquaseal® or Aquasure™ from hands, use cloth soaked with paint thinner, nail polish remover or 99% isopropyl alcohol.

STORAGE: Cap tightly. Store in cool, dry place. Use blister card package for storage.

dvleemin
November 1st, 2004, 03:16 PM
LOL, you threw me on that one. So, I had to cheat.. Since you are up North you should be able to find this at any Dive Store, or on-line, depending on your preference...

Cotol-240™ Cleaner & Cure Accelerator is a urethane cure accelerator and pre-cleaner to be used in conjunction with Aquaseal® or Aquasure™. The solvent cleans and prepares the surface, readying it for Aquaseal® or Aquasure™, speeding the tack time to 15 minutes and the full cure time to less than two hours. Cotol-240 is also ideal for removing tar, sap, glue, and other resins from various surfaces including glass, plastic and metal. Available in ½ oz. Blister Pack, 4 oz. and Quart (not shown).

Cotol-240™ Directions for use with Aquaseal® or Aquasure™ Urethane Repair Adhesive and Sealant:

AS PRECLEANER:

Apply a small amount to the damaged area (spot test for colorfastness).
Rub with a clean cloth until dry.
Repeat steps 1 and 2.
Apply Aquasure as directed.
Note: for best adhesion, first roughen non-fabric surfaces with sandpaper.
AS CURE ACCELERATOR:

Thoroughly mix 1 part cure accelerator with 3–4 parts Aquaseal® or Aquasure™ using a stick, toothpick, or knife. Mix on a non-absorbent surface such as a plastic lid or plate.
Immediately apply the mixture to the damaged area.
Allow the repair to completely cure at least 2 hours before using.
FOR COLORS: Mix food coloring or paint colorant (available at paint stores) into the Aquasure and cure accelerator before applying.

CLEAN-UP: To remove Aquaseal® or Aquasure™ from hands, use cloth soaked with paint thinner, nail polish remover or 99% isopropyl alcohol.

STORAGE: Cap tightly. Store in cool, dry place. Use blister card package for storage.

Thanks! Will try that.

hardhat
November 2nd, 2004, 02:17 AM
Hi,
I just added dry glove rings to my wife's suit, and I noticed a tiny tiny hole in the latex seal. I was wondering what the best way to repair that is. Rubber cement with rubber patch?

What do all the experts out there do? :)

Darryl


Replacing the seal is the proper way to repair it.

dvleemin
November 2nd, 2004, 10:44 AM
Replacing the seal is the proper way to repair it.

Agreed, however we're putting dry gloves on, the seals are only there as a precaution.

Darryl

dvleemin
November 2nd, 2004, 10:45 AM
Replacing the seal is the proper way to repair it.

Hey HardHat,
You ever been diving with Abysmal on Quadra Island? WE're thinking of heading there next spring.

Darryl

hardhat
November 3rd, 2004, 12:39 AM
Hey HardHat,
You ever been diving with Abysmal on Quadra Island? WE're thinking of heading there next spring.

Darryl


You bet I've been to Abbyssal on Quadra Island. Always a good time and the dive is aways outstanding. There are some unreal site to dive and some unreal sights to see, under the waves. If you don't like current don't go though, just about all the dives are in moving water, it cool doing drift dives like some of them are. You have to go higher north on the Island to get much better diving.

Rick Inman
November 3rd, 2004, 02:12 AM
Hi,
I just added dry glove rings to my wife's suit, and I noticed a tiny tiny hole in the latex seal. I was wondering what the best way to repair that is. Rubber cement with rubber patch?
What do all the experts out there do? :)

Darryl
I'm a little confused here. It sounds like you are asking about how to patch a Latex seal, not the rubber glove itself. WSParks described repairing the glove, not the seal. If the hole is in the glove, then I concur with his answer completely (I have a few glue warts on my gloves right now). However, if it is the latex seal, Hardhat is correct in saying to replace the seal.


Agreed, however we're putting dry gloves on, the seals are only there as a precaution.

Darryl
Yes, a precaution NOT to be ignored. I wouldn't dive without the seals (or let someone I care about dive without them). A flooded suit is nothing to take lightly. Especially if you dive in BC! :11:

Bob3
November 3rd, 2004, 04:06 PM
A small patch will work well, another reason for hanging on to the trimmings from the neck & wrist seals. Use a bicycle innertube repair kit, their glue works very well. Lacking that I've had good results with plain old wetsuit cement.
I don't think the AquaSeal will last very long if the area is subject to much stretching.
Precleaning / surface prep is essential, the instructions above are very good.
I've repaired split neck seals before using seal trimmings, they lasted for a couple weeks under daily use 'till the repair parts found their way to me.
The real telling factor is how much stretching the area is subject to.

dvleemin
November 4th, 2004, 11:32 AM
A small patch will work well, another reason for hanging on to the trimmings from the neck & wrist seals. Use a bicycle innertube repair kit, their glue works very well. Lacking that I've had good results with plain old wetsuit cement.
I don't think the AquaSeal will last very long if the area is subject to much stretching.
Precleaning / surface prep is essential, the instructions above are very good.
I've repaired split neck seals before using seal trimmings, they lasted for a couple weeks under daily use 'till the repair parts found their way to me.
The real telling factor is how much stretching the area is subject to.

Hi,
The hole is right by where the seal connects to the suit. That shouldn't have too much stretching, correct? So what do you think my best option is?

Darryl

Bob3
November 4th, 2004, 07:54 PM
Hi,
The hole is right by where the seal connects to the suit. That shouldn't have too much stretching, correct? So what do you think my best option is?

Darryl

There should be very little stretching to worry about, if you can get a small patch on the inside with a dot of Aqua Seal on the outside you should get quite a bit of mileage from it yet.
Just be sure to degrease with a clean rag, light scuff with sandpaper or open weave abrasive, followed by a good degreasing again with another clean rag. Don't even get fingerprints on the area to be glued.
Watch out for the rags with thinner, they can get HOT from just sitting there if bunched up.

dvleemin
November 5th, 2004, 11:37 AM
There should be very little stretching to worry about, if you can get a small patch on the inside with a dot of Aqua Seal on the outside you should get quite a bit of mileage from it yet.
Just be sure to degrease with a clean rag, light scuff with sandpaper or open weave abrasive, followed by a good degreasing again with another clean rag. Don't even get fingerprints on the area to be glued.
Watch out for the rags with thinner, they can get HOT from just sitting there if bunched up.

Thanks Bob.
What do you reccomend using as a degreaser - just some soap and water, or something stronger?

Thanks,

Darryl

Bob3
November 5th, 2004, 05:20 PM
Thanks Bob.
What do you reccomend using as a degreaser - just some soap and water, or something stronger?

I prefer toluene, it cuts the grease well & doesn't make mischief with most suit materials as long as it evaporates in the normal manner.
Lacking that alcohol is recommended.
Watch out for soaps, oil + soap makes something that likes to eat latex if not rinsed off thoroughly.


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