I NEED (want) a non corrosive dive knife

[THellURider]

I'm tired of dealing with this BS rusting after its been out of the water for 30 seconds. Here's what I want in a dive knife:

-non corrosive material (titanium etc)
-3.5" blade or less
-easily attached to BC
-rope cutter
-semi-serrated/serrated edge

I have no real preference to tip type. A thicker tip like a tanto or semi tanto would be good, just something that doesn't get real thin at the tip so I wouldn't have to worry about breaking the tip.

Oh, if it was somewhat sharp that would be nice too.....most dives knives I've looked at are pretty pathetic in the dept.

Thanks for the help.

[dilligaf368]

I'm tired of dealing with this BS rusting after its been out of the water for 30 seconds. Here's what I want in a dive knife:

-non corrosive material (titanium etc)
-3.5" blade or less
-easily attached to BC
-rope cutter
-semi-serrated/serrated edge

I have no real preference to tip type. A thicker tip like a tanto or semi tanto would be good, just something that doesn't get real thin at the tip so I wouldn't have to worry about breaking the tip.

Oh, if it was somewhat sharp that would be nice too.....most dives knives I've looked at are pretty pathetic in the dept.

Thanks for the help.

The Age Old question for the dive Knife... Stainless Steel usally doesn't hold an Edge without high carbon steel. The Carbon steel is the part that rusts. I do have a Titanium knife but it is soft. Usally true with that metal. If I need a blade that has to hold the edge (cutting lines out of Tugboat wheels) I will use a high carbon steel blade and clean/oil the knife right out of the water. The Titanium blade to take every day diving. Shears are great too. It just depends on what is in Your dive area/site...

[JustinW]

Not sure what exactly you are expecting. There are some trade offs to some of the things you want. A serrated blade cannot be easily sharpened by you at home. Some titanium alloys and other alloys are poor metals for building a blade. They tend not to hold an edge and are difficult to sharpen.

I use a SP k5 knife with a 4 1/2 inch blade. While this measurement seems to be a bit more than what you requested, it seems to have a much better feel in my hand than some of the mini knives stamped out of plate that lack a 3 dimensional handle.
The k5 had a sheath that can be zip tied to a BC strap and it locks the knife in place so it won't likely fall out. It has a rope notch (thats actually has a radius large enough to cut rope) and a serrated back side. However this knife has a smooth cutting surface that can easily be sharpened on a stone and steel. I am pretty neglectful when it comes to making sure my knife is cleaned after a dive but as of yet I have seen absolutely no corrosion. The blade is stainless steel. Honestly, after honing it on my diamond stone and my other stone and running the steel over it, it was never quite as sharp as my Buck knife I use for all non-diving activities.
So while I don't think that this blade is the best blade, it sure seems to get the job done. If you don't like the k5, maybe the k3 would work for you, it has all the stuff you wanted and a corrosion free blade, but just isn't my favorite with the "techie" look to it.

[SangP]

THellURider

I too am looking for such a knife but having a cutting edge and prying tip isn't that easy to find, furthermore you only want a blade that's 3.5" or less... tall order.

There are 2 knives that may suit your needs the Fusilier Dive Knife 4" blade overall length 8.5" and the Deep Sea Ti Squeeze lock 3" Blade Overall length 6.5".

If you are looking for cheap, the get yourself a victorinox Rabit knife and blunt the tip or a steak knife.

Cheers

SangP

[cancun mark]

this fits in the pocket, locking semi serated titanium blade with line cutter on the back.

you can buy them here:

http://shop.divebooty.com/3015.html

[Doc Intrepid]

I'm tired of dealing with this BS rusting after its been out of the water for 30 seconds. Here's what I want in a dive knife:

-non corrosive material (titanium etc)
-3.5" blade or less
-easily attached to BC
-rope cutter
-semi-serrated/serrated edge

I have no real preference to tip type. A thicker tip like a tanto or semi tanto would be good, just something that doesn't get real thin at the tip so I wouldn't have to worry about breaking the tip.

Oh, if it was somewhat sharp that would be nice too.....most dives knives I've looked at are pretty pathetic in the dept.

Thanks for the help.These are pretty sweet:

http://www.uwkinetics.com/CategoryDisplay_cgmenbr=91&cgrfnbr=840.htm

There's one called Remora, 'bout halfway down, sounds like what you want. It's not titanium, but its a non-corrosive alloy. Another option is all the way at the bottom, I use it in the ocean, it works great (rinse, drip dry, WD-40).

Good luck.

[d@n]

I'll vouch for the Remora as well. I have always taken it apart when I get home and cleaned & oiled it while I am rinsing and cleaning the rest of my gear.

[THellURider]

Thanks for the tips guys. I think the Fusilier from Underwater Kinetics sounds like what I want. It's basically a Remora with a rope cutter. I think this knife will cover 99% my needs. Guess I'll just start keeping a little bottle of Corrosion X with me, unless, this Hydralloy does indeed, not rust.

[Tom Winters]

The Remora is a great knife - no rust and I dive with it all the time. It is such a perfect little knife that I feel kinda bad about not taking better care of it. Another burden I shoulder...

[MAK52580]

I use an Akona CoQui knife and have never had a problem. It is short and compact. Just use a decent amount of silicone on the knife and cover anywhere there is metal. I only apply the silicone once every 6 months or so and corrosion has never been a problem.

http://www.leisurepro.com/Prod/ItemIndex_1/CategoryID_968/Context_965/Sort_SKU/Filter_1%3d205/AKNKC.html.

[SangP]

Hi,

I would have recommended the Akona CoQui knife but 304 steel or 300 series steel just don't hold a cutting edge well. My el cheapo Victorinox paring knife cuts the webbing soooo much better.

But I think the Remora and the Fusilier with 420 series steel should hold an edge much better. But I think I rather get the Server or use my el cheapo blade.

Cheers,

SangP

[pipedope]

There are several factors in edge holding.

First is the hardness of the metal, copper and bronze are not so good because they are very soft.

Most of the metals that are really hard enough to hold an edge either corrode rapidly or are too brittle for a dive knife.

One other factor is sharpening.

If you just sharpen with a stone they you are leaving a significan burr on the edge. The burr will cut but will rapidly fold over and then the knife is dull again.

A well sharpened knife stropped to remove the burr will stay sharp much longer than the same knife without stropping.

You can make your own strop.
Take a board a little wider than the blade length and about a foot or more long. Cover it with leather.
Now go buy a can of "rubbing compound" the one I have is from Turtle Wax, cost less than $2 at WallMart and is a lifetime supply.

Now spread a small amount of the rubbing compound on the leather. It only takes a little.

Now, once you have the edge stoned to a good edge use the strop.
On a strop you stroke away from the cutting edge. Hold the angle the same as you did with the stone. Alternate sides and keep going until there is no burr. The edge will also be nice and shiny except on the very apex of the cutting point where a shiny spot is a ding.

There is a little more to it but this should get you started.

[ArcticDiver]

Ever consider one of the ceramic or composite material knives like are sold in sporting goods catalogs? Never used one for diving but they seem to have a good reputation in both the marine and sporting world.

[THellURider]

Ever consider one of the ceramic or composite material knives like are sold in sporting goods catalogs? Never used one for diving but they seem to have a good reputation in both the marine and sporting world.


I did actually. Boker makes a great one, only they aren't the strongest of blades. I've seen one slapped hard on a counter and shatter.

I ordered a Fusilier, I'll post a review once I get it.

[willydiver]

There are several factors in edge holding.

You can make your own strop.



Pipedope, I made a strop just like you described, a few years ago and it works great. It'll put a razor edge on a blade. I use jewelers rouge on mine.

WD

[Chad_Ordelheide]

I have a Underwater Kinetic Blue Tang Titanium. I like it, but I can't say I've put it to a lot of use yet. Titanium needs to shapened by someone who knows what they are doing though!!

[AtomicWalrus]

Titanium is your best choice for a corrosion-resistant knife material. Commercial-grade alpha titanium is truly corrosion-resistant in salt water - pricey, but it will not corrode. Just about any stainless steel is going to experience corrosion in salt water. You can prevent the unsightly rust patches from forming on the blade by rinsing thoroughly after dives and coating the knife with silicone, but it's hard to avoid the microscopic pitting of the cutting edges that eventually dulls the blade. You can take care of that issue with regular sharpening, though. Then again, is all the extra maintenance worth the price difference between the stainless steel and titanium versions of a dive knife?

One last note: if you're going for stainless steel, it's worth going for the UK Hydralloy models instead of the more common 440 stainless. I had a UK Remora knife that held up extremely well to salt water immersion without much more maintenance required than rinsing & occasionally re-coating it with silicone grease. Sadly, it got lost while I was getting dragged up onto a beach as a "victim" while assisting with a rescue course.