EE canister light switch issues

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WreckWriter

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Scuba Instructor
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Yesterday I made my first dive with my EE Pro4 HID light. Light worked great but I had a LOT of trouble getting it turned on with my gloves on. The top of the switch is flush with the guard which is great to prevent accidental activation but made for a real pain in the water. I actually had to pull off my gloves to get it.

Has anyone else had this problem?

I thought of sticking a short piece of tubing (auto fuel hose or similar) on the switch to extend it 1/4 inch or so. I don't turn my battery until just before diving anyway so this should worked. Do you think this will cause accidental DE-activations underwater?

I see that the new EE lights have a rectagular guard instead of round, maybe for this reason?

Is this a real issue or just something I need to work on?

Tom
 
Originally posted by WreckWriter
Has anyone else had this problem?
Yes.
The solution is not to put a handle extension on the switch but to practice flipping the switch with authority.... if I can do it with bulky dry gloves you can do it with thin wet gloves.

Another solution would be to remove the guard ring and file the inside diameter larger along the switch throw axis.... I still recommend the first solution.

BTW we found that some times our lights would not fire... and the problem turned out to be an inadequate switch throw which caused a *bouncing switch* action in which the ballast was momentarily energized then cycled off and then back on... but since it didn't take the first instant it needed to de-energize before it would fire again. We would have to leave the lights sit for a while before they would restrike.

We find that clicking it on with a definite positive action gives us ignition every time.
 
Yeh, I've had the same problem. But I wouldn't extend the switch. Anything sticking up is a potential shut-off problem.

I've resorted to swiping my finger across the switch instead of trying to grab it Doesn't always work!

The most interesting design that I saw was from a guy that was building his own light. He used a looping brass drawer pull over the switch. It protected the switch from bumping off, but allowed you to get your whole finger underneath to activate/deactivate the switch. So simple, so brilliant.

Keep practicing!!

Jack
 
I had trouble the first dive with mine (wearing dry gloves). The switch was toward my body so besides the thick gloves the angle of attack was steep. I turned the battery, thus placing the switch away from my body allowing me to get a streighter shot at the switch. Don't have any trouble now.
 
Originally posted by MikeFerrara
I turned the battery, thus placing the switch away from my body allowing me to get a streighter shot at the switch. Don't have any trouble now.
Mike... the problem with that is that the contacts are on the low side now when you are horizontal.... a small flood could kill your light... turned the other way the contacts are on top and you need almost a full flood to kill the light.

Just a thought. :wink:
 
UP,

They are not on the bottom when I am Horizontal. They were against my body I moved them 180 not 90 so they are just on the other side (away from me)
 
I'll check again but the jacks sit 180 from the switch so, now, the switch is away from my side and the jacks are up against my side.
 
agreeing that it is necessary to be able to REACH the light
and it should be optimally placed (i.e. not TOO far back unless
you have arms like an orangutan)

someone explain how a .25 inch long extension poses any
significant risk of accidental activation, hang-up, etc.


1) when transporting the light, tape the switch down

2) when diving the light you must be some sort of whirling
dervish to have a problem with a .25 inch extension on a toggle
switch
 
Originally posted by Green_Manelishi
1) when transporting the light, tape the switch down

2) when diving the light you must be some sort of whirling
dervish to have a problem with a .25 inch extension on a toggle
switch
1. no need... just rotate the lid 180 and the battery is not plugged in.

2. go ahead and add the extension GM... learn by experience.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/
http://cavediveflorida.com/Rum_House.htm

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