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About 2 weeks ago, my girlfriend and I spent about 6 days staying at Bimini Bay Resort and diving with Bill and Nowdla Keefe.
It was both of our first trips to Bimini - although we're veterans of the Bahamas and the out islands. All told, we had a beautiful time. One has to know what to expect - it's an out island, not a place to expect a plethora of gourmet food options plus happening clubs. But for pretty healthy reefs, and absolutely the most plentiful fish life I've seen almost anywhere, and somewhat unusual fish life, and plenty of big stuff, Bimini totally delivers. Couple this with a lot of convenience - a 50 mile flight on Continental Connection from Ft. Lauderdale - and I would definitely make this a regular destination. I would return again and again.
We dove every day we were there, including day of arrival, and spent one afternoon on the O'Keefe boat on the wild dolphin snorkel expedition. I also did a private charter with a bonefishing guide, Ebbie, to snorkel some shallow sites on the flats and in the mangroves.
As I did some research leading up to our trip, I was a bit nervous about a lack of information. Few folks here on the boards or in other spots had reviewed Bimini diving or the dive operator, and often that's a bad sign.
But there was nothing to be very concerned about for Bimini. In talking with Bill O'Keefe, about 70% of his guests are repeat customers - it's a destination that I don't think many know about, but those who discover it seem to really like.
There's not much draw to the island as a tourist or dive destination - most visitors come via private boat from Florida to partake of bill fishing or bonefishing. There's really only one major resort (Bimini Bay), and there's not much to this besides a large marina, a couple of restaurants, and what seems to me to be a very bad attempt at providing high-end shopping. You're getting a picture of what to expect - a somewhat sleepy out-island, a very interesting aquatic environment, and a chance for some unique encounters such as wild dolphins and flats creatures.
The diving
My diving unfortunately isn't accompanied by a lot of pictures as my camera housing had a small leak which greatly limited my chances to take pictures. I'll put in what I've got.
Bimini diving I would classify as somewhat different (not better or worse) than other Bahamas diving that I have done.
Virtually all of our dives were off the west side of North Bimini. This is itself an interesting feature of the diving - most places in the world, coral reefs grow off the eastern side of an island not the west. Bimini is situated with the Great Bahama Bank (a vast stretch of 20-30 feet of water) sitting to its east and north, and to its west, the Straits of Florida to depths of 3000 feet and the Gulf Stream current. Diving the west side, there are patch reefs that form in 35-85 feet of water with the reef line running north-south.
On all of the reefs, fish life is truly prolific - schools of snapper, grunts, schoolmasters, bermuda chub, jacks, barracuda, triggers.
We also saw nurse sharks on just about every dive, and southern stingrays. On the deeper reefs, the coral and sponge life is quite nice and generally pristine. Pristine, except for lots of fishing line and leader and hooks, which I did my best to remove wherever I found it.
Diving the deeper reefs, and including the wreck of the Bimini barge at 90 feet, things get interesting because blue water pelagics - some of which I've never seen before - show up looking for a meal. I saw on the deeper reefs unusual fish for on a reef including large jacks and horse-eye jacks, but also the Greater Amberjack, African Pompano, Cobia, Wahoo. Truly cool - I had two Pompano swim up within 10 feet of me to check me out.
On most of the deeper reefs and certainly at the barge, you get a Gulf Stream eddy current which generally brings in clear blue water plus the pelagic species.
The ride in and out of the harbor is also a fascinating opportunity to see cool things in the water. Tidal flows that bring nutrients out of the mangroves bring in large eagle rays and sometimes sharks.
This trip is a must do - truly a fantastic chance to interact with a resident pod of Atlantic Spotted Dolphins. What happens is pretty simple - Bill and Nowdla happened upon the dolphins 15 or 20 years ago. By running north onto the Great Bahama Bank, they can often find the pod. The only complication is finding whether the dolphins want to play. Usually this can be accomplished with the dive boat, as dolphins seem to love the wake.
They put you in the water on snorkel (and with camera) and circle the boat around you. The dolphins will dive underneath you and swim up in an underwater ballet that unfolds around you. We got to interact with 2 separate pods of 4-5 dolphins each - the pictures show how close they get.
I've been at least a few times in destinations where wild dolphins have come to accompany the dive boat to or from the dive site. Some operators are reluctant to break out of the routine and interact with them, or try to put snorkelers in the water with them - which seems to me like a missed opportunity - as I think this is basically how the O'Keefe trip started in the first place.
The Mangrove Snorkel
My trip ended with a mangrove snorkel - chartered with Bonefish Ebbie (one of the local flats fishing guides). Went looking for juvenille sharks and other species in the tidal flow out of the mangroves. I'll need to do something like this again, as it was very interesting, but didn't have a lot of luck encountering the species - at least while I was in the water. However, from the surface I saw several rays, turtles, and a big hammerhead shark. No pictures of this unfortunately - as the hammerhead was really unhappy to see us and bolted. Ebbie was amazing in his ability to locate fish including the hammerhead from the surface. I guess this is the skill of having a fishing guide as your captain.
My best pictures from this were the giant orange starfish and the large southern stingray - who looked like he was dressed as a ghost.
Great report! But as the other party on the trip, I'm a little biased. The number of fish on each dive site was completely out of control - like swimming in an aquarium! Snorkeling with the wild dolphins was an experience like no other. I only wish that I could free dive better. When another woman on our trip free dove about 15 feet down, the dolphins swam down with her circling her playfully in what looked like a crazy National Geographic video!
Thanks for the trip report! My wife and I might be heading there soon. We were actually looking to stay on South Bimini Island, as opposed to the North Island. It looks like the South Island is less developed and a bit more quiet.
Any other info you can share about the island and any suggestions you might have would be very helpful.
As CloseFocusWA's other half, I'm responding for him at his request. Yes, it's true that South Bimini is a little less developed that North Bimini, but its not as if North Bimini is a booming metropolis. It's not Nassau; there is only one road on the island. At Bimini Bay Resort, there were few very other people but there are buildings and shops, etc. We were told that it does get busy, but it was a bit deserted when we were there.
In reality the choices are Bimini Bay Resort in the North or Bimini Sands in the South. The two islands are separated by a small harbor channel. There are two ferries that run about every 10 minutes between the two islands. The ride itself takes about 3 minutes. I don't know how late they run. The charge is either $5 OR $7 per person, cash only. The fare includes a cab ride to/from the airport and the ferry. Presumably, they will pick you up from Bimini Sands & take you to the ferry for the same price.
Most important, BiminiUndersea (housed at Bimini Bay Resort) is the only dive operator on the island. You might be able to arrange for them to pick you up at another spot. The dive boat has to go through the harbor channel right by South Bimini to access the dive spots. We did stop at the southern tip of the North several times to get passengers and gas, so you could probably get on there. I would check ahead of time to be sure.
There are a few restaurants in the North but not many. I think the only restaurants in South Bimini are at the resort. We tried to eat at the local places but had difficulty finding places that were open. The bad economy has hit the island hard. I'll mention where we ate, but they could be closed by the time you get there. Breakfast at Captain Bob's is good and very Bahamian. CJ's is a typical small town greasy spoon. Edith's Pizza towards the North end is just OK. If you're looking for a decent bar scene, Big John's in Alicetown is where the locals and the tourists hang out. In the South, I think your options are to eat at the resort or cook. I don't know if there is a a place to buy groceries in the South.
Honestly, there really isn't much to do or see topside in Bimini -- doesn't matter which island. The only ATM on the island is in North Bimini. If you decide to stay on North Bimini, you should rent a golf cart. There is a lovely and picturesque beach wreck at the very southern tip of North Bimini. There is some interesting snorkeling around there and at the tip of the island.
We didn't stay on South Island or spend much time there. We did chat with a couple who stayed at Bimini Sands because they had a family member who runs the activites there. Obviously they liked it. The Beach Club restaurant at Bimini Sands is supposed to be the best in Bimini. I understand that the snorkeling around Red Rock on South Bimini is supposed to be great, but we didn't go.
On a related side note, although Bimini Bay Resort takes a lot of flack, apparently the owners renegotiated a lot of additional phases of the development plans and the locals and the environmentalists came to an agreement on how the resort should fit into the island. According to our dive operator, who was actually involved in the negotiations on behalf of the island, those who opposed development were not native Bahamians and failed to take down the bad internet press after they reached an agreement. Additionally, I think that Bimini Sands perpetuates a lot of this discussion because Bimini Bay Resort is its only competition on the island. I don't know if any of this plays a part in your decision, but I thought I'd mention it.
Most important, BiminiUndersea (housed at Bimini Bay Resort) is the only dive operator on the island. You might be able to arrange for them to pick you up at another spot. The dive boat has to go through the harbor channel right by South Bimini to access the dive spots.
no completely accurate.... FYI.
Scuba Bimini is on south Bimini and is associated with several of the resorts there.
I dove with Bill and Nowdla Oct 2008 and was one of the first parties to stay at that resort. Your trip report is spot on. Bill and Nowdla made the dive experience excellent. Not much going on in Bimini, hence be prepared to kick back. Did not get any shore diving in, not sure it's available.
Thank you for all the information... it was very helpful. We are going to the Bahamas for sure and most likely Bimini... BUT, I came across San Salvador and heard they have great diving there as well so I will be researching that island and hopefully choosing between one of them.
Thanks again, the info was much appreciated and I shall return the favor to anyone else who inquires, when we go.
Mike S: Thnaks for info on the other dive shop. I'll email both and see how it goes.
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Bimini trip report - SCUBA and wild dolphins
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Originally Posted by KUFan452
