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Dive shops in SoCal charge similar fees for the hydro and tumbling.
Hydros can be done more inexpensively ($15 or less) if the diver takes the tank directly to the hydrotest facility (industrial welding shop?) and cuts out the middleman. Same can be said for the tumbling service.
Charging $20 for a VIP on top of a hydro is highway robbery. $5-$10 for the VIP of a steel tank is more reasonable.
$24 for a 32% nitrox fill is ridiculously high.
If you're only getting fills from one shop...and you're getting rust inside your tank...and you aren't diving your tank until it's completely empty (which would otherwise raise the probability of water infiltration), then the shop is to blame for introducing water into your tank.
Here in SoCal the most common cause of rust inside a tank is getting a wet fill on a dive boat. I once saw an inexperienced crewmember expose a fill whip to seawater and then, without clearing it, he began to attach it to a tank valve for filling. I stopped him. If I hadn't said anything, he probably would have ended up shooting some saltwater into that tank. It really doesn't take much to initiate the rusting process.
You didn't mention what kind of tank you had serviced. Around here when there's a sale, for $140, one might be able to purchase a brand, new AL80 that comes with a 10-fill air card.
That's partly why I just took the class to do visual inspections.
Okay, you just got my attention, you mean to say that You can take a class and You can do do your own visuals?
I already had my doubts about these visuals (other than generating money for the diveshop)
But now you say you inspect AND put a sicker on it