streamlining my setup

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mangoconchile

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im looking for some ideas on how to streamline my setup. in particular, im trying to get ideas on hose routing for my regulators, as well as where to mount a light.

i currently use an aqua lung legend lx supreme regulator and a legend octopus. the regulator has a 29 inch hose and the octopus has a 39 inch. IMO the octo hose for me is too long and i hate folding it up into one of the d rings as it has come out a few times. im looking to shorten the hose to a 22 inch and using it with a bungee necklace. what are your thoughts on this? i get the idea behind the long hose for the octo but if im in an out of air situation with a buddy i dont see them searching for my octo but rather pulling my primary out of my mouth. if that happened i could quickly pull the octo off my necklace. i could also lengthen my primary house to 33-36 inches and route it underneath my shoulder. i got the idea from watching this video

Scuba Diving: Streamlined Regulator for Single Tank Diving - YouTube


the only issue is my regulator does not have an 'elbow' like the one if the video. im not sure if i would get jaw fatigue routing the hose that way as i currently route it over my shoulder.


also any ideas on how to attach your dive light? i plan on getting a pistol grip light and may get a retractor for it, that way i can clip it to my bc on one of the d rings.
 
im looking for some ideas on how to streamline my setup.

Do you have any particular purpose in mind, long-term? Or is it just a general 'neatening' of your gear?

im looking to shorten the hose to a 22 inch and using it with a bungee necklace. what are your thoughts on this?

Bungeed backup works very well. However, if you're changing your configuration in this way, do also recognize that it's changing your method of air donation (donate from mouth). When you change protocols/skills, you need to practice and perfect that new method before you can rely upon it. You'll also have to remember to fully brief every future diving partner on how your method works, as part of your pre-dive routine.

i get the idea behind the long hose for the octo but if im in an out of air situation with a buddy i dont see them searching for my octo but rather pulling my primary out of my mouth.

I often suspect that the 'grabbing the reg from the mouth' is more fantasy than reality. If/when it does happen, it's because divers failed to apply good protocols for air-sharing emergencies and/or had low situational awareness.

Just as with the bungeed backup... changing to a long(er) hose and primary donation means developing a new skill-set. Remember that skill is 'donating air'... it's not about allowing yourself to be willingly mugged. It should always be your intention to recognize an low-on-air emergency and pro-actively provide the regulator.

the only issue is my regulator does not have an 'elbow' like the one if the video. im not sure if i would get jaw fatigue routing the hose that way as i currently route it over my shoulder.

You can buy elbows/swivels/adapters and fit them to the regulator.

See here, for an idea: XS Scuba 110 Degree Adapter at LeisurePro


also any ideas on how to attach your dive light? i plan on getting a pistol grip light and may get a retractor for it, that way i can clip it to my bc on one of the d rings.

Personally, I think pistol grip lights are neandrathal. Why choose to lose one of your hands on a dive and increase your task loading? The retractor is just a solution to that self-imposed problem.

Get a nice little straight LED light and put it into a soft Goodman handle. You wear it over your hand and keep your hands-free for the dive.

Examples of Soft Goodman Handles: Ammonite, FinnSub

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Or make your own: http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/do-yourself-diy/459886-soft-goodman-handle-[diy].html
 
The 22 inch hose for the backup regulator should be fine.

Once you necklace the backup, you are adopting primary donate. To donate the primary, you need it on a longer hose than the 24" standard. There are a lot of options -- you can run a 36" hose and just allow it to make a big loop out alongside you (which defeats the purpose of streamlining). You can use a 40" hose with a 90 degree adapter, and run the hose under your arm. You can use a 5' hose and run it under the arm, across the chest, behind the neck and around to your mouth -- this works pretty well unless you are broad across the chest and shoulders. Or you can use the 7' cave diving hose length, and run it down to a knife, pocket, canister, or other stay device at your waist, up across your chest, and behind your neck to your mouth.

Whatever configuration you adopt, Andy is completely right that you should practice donating gas using it, so you understand the ups and downs of the configuration you've chosen.
 
For streamlining my gear I ended up with the following:

1) 22" inflator hose -- shortened from the 26" that came with the BC to get rid of the slack

2) 26" HP hose for my SPG -- shortened from the 36" that was originally on it. I clip it off on my waist D-ring and it's still very readable and accessible but doesn't have all the excess of the longer hose.

3) 22" octo w/ necklace -- I went through all sorts of solutions for securing an octo and none seemed to work, my octo always ended up floating free which I definitely didn't like, so I went to this solution. I really like it, my octo hasn't come loose since putting it on a necklace, and during my first session for my rescue class, at the end, the instructor was simulating a tired diver on the bottom and then went into a full OOA panic situation, grabbing my regulator out of my mouth. It was the first time I've had my reg removed that I haven't planned (obviously I removed it for skills in OW class but I knew that was coming in advance, it wasn't a surprise) and to be honest it was basically a non-issue since I knew exactly where my octo was and it was so close. I'm definitely sold on the necklace for the octo.

4) 5' primary that routes under my arm and behind my neck -- Even though the hose is longer the routing keeps it cleaner than with the old 26" hose, and since this is my "donor" reg now I like the idea of the longer hose on it.

I will say that on the last couple of charters I've been on I seem to be the odd man out when it comes to regulator configuration. I always point out to my insta-buddy about my reg setup and the fact that my donor is my primary because my octo is on a necklace and most people seem to think it's silly. One insta-buddy even responded that rather than take my primary they could just swim to the surface instead. Doesn't really bother me though, it's my gear and I really like how I have it set up, it seems real clean and everything is accessible.

Of course, I'm also a relative noob at diving so it's possible that in my lack of experience I've completed screwed up so take anything I say with a grain of salt.
 
Thank you guys, my primary goal is to be as streamlined as possible with the least amount of drag. Just trying to be neat and tidy. Don't really have any interest in tech/cave diving. There are some good suggestions here. I may go with a 40" on my primary and get the adapter. Also I think I'm going to ditch the pistol light and go with something like DevonDiver suggested. I've been looking at the Sola 800 and it comes with a 'Goodman' type handle.


Also does changing hoses out void the warranty on anything?
 
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If streamlining is the focus, lose the octo and switch to a low pressure inflator alternate air source- one less hose altogether. As to the dive light, a big pistol grip is in my mind a waste of space and weight given the small led lights that have power and illumination to spare. Most decent lights are a bit heavy for a retractor. A pocket, or d ring are my preferences, but if you can find a strong enough retractor, it could work.
DivemasterDennis
 
As far as I know, changing hoses does not affect the warranty on the regs.
 
i currently use an aqua lung legend lx supreme regulator and a legend octopus. the regulator has a 29 inch hose and the octopus has a 39 inch. IMO the octo hose for me is too long and i hate folding it up into one of the d rings as it has come out a few times. im looking to shorten the hose to a 22 inch and using it with a bungee necklace. what are your thoughts on this? i get the idea behind the long hose for the octo but if im in an out of air situation with a buddy i dont see them searching for my octo but rather pulling my primary out of my mouth. if that happened i could quickly pull the octo off my necklace. i could also lengthen my primary house to 33-36 inches and route it underneath my shoulder. i got the idea from watching this video
1. I fully endorse your thinking on the mechanics of an OOA situation. I am not a big fan of the traditional 'octo in the triangle' configuration, although that is arguably the most commonly encountered recreational diving configuration (and, it is the configuration our shop routinely uses for OW training). I often refer to this as the 'Bermuda Triangle', with the octo being lost in that area, not unlike some planes and ships in the past.

2. As a matter of semantics, and to avoid even the appearance of skirting agency standards, one can reasonably consider the mouth to be at the top of the triangle, anyway. So, having the octo in the mouth is entirely consistent, from my perspective, with the 'octo in the triangle' concept.

3. The beauty / functionality of a bungeed necklace, is that you will donate (or have snatched from you) what is in your mouth, NOT what is on the necklace. The whole point is to donate a second stage that you know is working at the time you donate it, not one that may or may not work. But, you will NOT then 'pull the octo off my necklace' to use yourself rather you simply pull the second stage up a bit and put it in your mouth, with the bungee still around the mouthpiece.

4. A 22" hose on the necklace reg will probably work for you. BUT, it may be a bit short. I find a 24" to work better for me. So, since shorter hoses are sometime special order items, you might try to find someone with a 22" (or 24") hose on their reg, and borrow it to try it before buying. Not a big deal, just a thought.

5. If you are changing your hose lengths anyway, do NOT go with a 33" primary. It is frankly too short to efficiently donate in an OOA situation. It will work, but what's the point? If you are buying new hoses anyway, go with a 5' or 7' hose for your primary.

6. One simple alternative approach that you can easily try before making a decision on new hoses - and, which allows you to use the hoses that you already have: put your (shorter hose) primary on a bungee necklace, and breath from your (longer hose) alternate / octo as your primary. Several university scuba programs have adopted this as their standard. It works pretty well. The longer hose (~40") bows out a bit more when you route it over your right shoulder, and I find routing it under my arm and up to my mouth is a bit more streamlined. While not optimally efficient, even that is better than the 'octo in the triangle'. I even tell my OW students that, after certification, when they buy their own gear, if they decide to start with 'standard' hose lengths, that this is a better approach that the 'octo in the triangle'. In an OOA, they can donate a working reg, on a 40" hose, and they will know exactly where their back-up is - right under their chin.
also any ideas on how to attach your dive light? i plan on getting a pistol grip light and may get a retractor for it, that way i can clip it to my bc on one of the d rings.
I agree with DevonDiver about pistol grip lights ('neanderthal' being a kind term). Holding a heavy pistol grip light in your hand for an extended period is tiring to your hand. Clipping some big, bulky light off to your BCD is not a great idea, either. Current technology allows you to get a smaller, flashlight style LED primary light, and wear it on the back of your hand with a separate Goodman glove (Lights - Goodman Handles and Light Accessories - Northeast Scuba Supply Store) / light sock (Raider III -IV Light Sock - Northeast Scuba Supply Store). (The links are not an attempt to necessarily get you to use Northeast Scuba Supply, rather the NESS site happens to have some good pictures.) You can also go 'whole hog' and get a canister light. (I tell divers that my two single most valuable investments in dive gear are a. my drysuit, and b. my can light.) Either way, you keep both hands free. A third option - not as attractive but still functional: I tie bolt snaps to the butt ends of my backup lights (all flashlight style), and clip the snap of whatever light I am using to my right chest D-ring. The light head is held down with a loop of inner tube or bungee. On those occasions when I don't use the can light, or a primary on a Goodman glove, and I only have the back-up light clipped to my harness, I slip the light head out of the loop, and turn the light on, but keep it clipped to the D-ring. The light is long enough (~ 6") that I can actually move the head around enough to illuminate whatever I want to look at, without unclipping it. When I am done, I turn it off, slip the light head back under the bungee / inner tube, and it is restored.

The bottom line, there are a number of better, more efficient alternatives to a pistol grip light.
 
thanks for the responses. im in the process of testing the shorter hose. i also purchased a sola 800 dive light with a goodman handle
 
The 22 inch hose for the backup regulator should be fine.

Once you necklace the backup, you are adopting primary donate.

It matters not to me whichever way the OP goes.

However, this statement is not really universal. I have seen quite a few people necklace the "octopus" including me and my wife. The fisherman knot holds the air share regulator as securely as any commercial holder and pops free with an easy pull, at least as easy as the commercial keepers often used for similar purpose.

In fact, long before todays divers thought of it, most regulators came with a neck strap. Unfortunately they also used snaps which over time would corrode and resist all attempts to open. Thus necklacing was dropped as not being conducive to the then standard buddy breathing procedure.

Now, if you are putting the bungee under the mouthpiece tie strap, that is a different thing.

Here, you can see a necklaced "octopus" regulator and while this is not my rig, for the better part of the years between 1982 and about 1990ish, this is similar to what I typically dived including the wing and plate, notice the regulator still has a J reserve:

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Typical of the late 70s, notice the rig is only equipped with a single second stage and an spg, also very typical of what I dived, mostly from about 76 to 82 where I began to routinely use an octopus second. In fact, I had exactly this rig:

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Now Mike here is a whole lot more streamlined than any of y'all:

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Necklaced regulator on slip knot for air sharing, me in nowadays times, notice also the orange snorkel keeper on the D ring used as an alternative means of securing the air share second:

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Believe it or not, this typical of todays consumer PadI diver just completed his Peak Buoyancy and Minimalist diver course:

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