New Diver- Basic equipment recommendations

[CptnD]

I'll be getting certified in the next few months at most and just wanted to start getting gear to build up and be ready. I'll be buying the basic things needed for the certification course and following I will purchase the rest of the equipment. So far I have a Mares I3 Liquid Skin mask on order.
As far as fins are concerned, what would you recommend? Are the full foot split fins ideal or open heel? Does that come down to comfort or is there a certain level of usefulness each kind produces?

The BCD I have been looking at is a Mares Hybrid Pure. It's weight integrated and lightweight which is what I'm looking for.
For a computer I will probably go with a wrist version. I am all ears for recommendations on something good to start out with. That goes for regulators as well.
I'm not trying to get too far ahead of myself but I intend to be ready for my first near-shore trip by summer, so I'm just trying to be prepared to keep the ball rolling.
Am I on the right track?

 

[Patoux01]

Seeing you're in the US, I won't be able to give a specific brand, just what to look for.

Fins:
- adjustable, non split, non-fancy, don't like clips, but they can be replaced with a bit of bungee so no biggy here.

Computer:
- wrist-mounted, make sure it's easy to read in the conditions you might be using it. Ideally, you'd want a computer that can also be used as bottom timer, that way you can use it through more technical diving if you need to. I don't care about air integration, as long as people do not rely only on their air integrated watch. (Reason for this is, I care about the air that is in YOUR tank, not the one of the other diver 10m further away who happens to have the same watch. So keep that one just for the SAC and when it's not vital information for instance)

Snorkel:
- Don't care, I take a 3$ one. Might use one for freediving if you're into that. I don't use it except during the courses when it's required. You could look at the foldable ones.

BCD:
- Either backplate/wing or sidemount, which are to me the only way to go. Seeing you'll probably start with backmounted gear, I'd suggest a BPW setup. Reason for this is: one size fits all, ease of replacement, ease of travelling, no fluff, no fanciness (i like their spartian look). You can look to add weight pockets to them as well, if you reaaaaaaally want them.


People may or may not agree, this is the gear I would have hoped to have advised when I started. This is what I ended up with.
fins: aqualung caravelle, way too long and floppy
computer: suunto zoop, no bottom timer and single gas, have to keep the fluo stuff up throughout the dive to be usable at night/low vis conditions
BCD: xdeep stealth, probably my only good choice in my beginner's gear. Hard to master so I wouldn't recommend it. Also badly frowned upon for quite a bit of training.


Cheers

 

[KevinNM]

My suggestion is rent expensive equipment from a few places and try different stuff before sinking big bucks into it. So don't buy a reg, bcd or computer before you have done some diving after you are certified.

I'd suggest not buying an exposure suit either, but if none of standard wet suits fits you you may need to buy one that fits before you you go on a trip and freeze. Depends on the water temp of your destination and how cold tolerant you are,

You need a mask that fits. Life sucks if it leaks. You should own one of these. If if leaks you need a different one, go back to whoever sold it to you and have them swap it for one that fits.

You probably need to own a snorkel and fins. Get a cheap straight snorkel. There are lots of options for fins, but the old-school fins work pretty well for most people. Splits are not ideal for most people.

 

[SouthSideScubaSteve]

If you are set on buying gear before you get certified, I'd suggest visiting your Local Dive Shops and talking to them, look at the gear, try it on and make sure you visit multiple shops before you buy anything. While you are there, ask about what gear they rent (makes & models) and seriously consider renting for your training and checkout dives...

The one exception to that is a mask, find one that fits your face and is comfortable. A quick test for fit is to press the mask onto your face and then hold your breath; the mask should stay in-place as long as you don't breath out thru your nose. If it keeps a seal, then put the strap on, tighten it and wait a minute or two; take the mask off and make sure there aren't any points where the mask was exerting inconsistent pressure on your face ....

 

[hroark2112]

I'm going to second not buying a BC until you're certified. Buy a BC after you've had a chance to try several different types. Your certification class will most likely include BC & regulator rental in the cost, so take advantage of that. Don't buy until you've tried a jacket, back inflate & backplate/wing setup if at all possible.

Buy the right gear for the type & frequency of diving that you'll be doing. If you're going to be a vacation diver, buy a basic regulator and don't even worry about a BC. If you're planning on diving a lot in cold water, buy the right reg set for cold water.

I don't recommend buying a mask online, unless you've got one of those very average shaped faces. Most masks fit me pretty well, but my wife is a different story. I bought her a mask online, she tried it on once and it sits in the case.

I made the mistake of buying gear before trying. Sold most of it at a loss and now have what I really like.

 

[Patoux01]

Buy the right gear for the type & frequency of diving that you'll be doing. If you're going to be a vacation diver, buy a basic regulator and don't even worry about a BC. If you're planning on diving a lot in cold water, buy the right reg set for cold water.

I disagree with that part at least. Ok for the BC (to a certain extent, I for one don't fit in the BCs that my club here has to offer), but the regs should definitely always be high end. I've had the "chance" of using Mares Rover and Aqualung Calypso, and I'd be damned should I dive those regularly or even just on holidays. I also tried a Titan, which felt alright, but still not great.
A bad regulator by itself isn't an issue, but if you've had the chance to try some higher end gear you'll never go back to lower end...
I agree with the part where you say there's no need to buy it yet however, could have saved me 500$ by not buying an apeks xtx100 which doesn't suit me at all.

Forgot to add something, should you buy a mask and have prescription lenses, definitely try them. You're likely to not want a clear skirt due to reflections (at least, out of my 2 masks, although different models, there's huge reflection using the one with clear skirt and nothing with the other). But since this is too late for OP, I'll just leave this for other readers. Also nice to have an idea of the field of vision you'll get before buying it, as it varies greatly with different brands.

 

[diversteve]

Typically dive fins are open-heel - it's the optimal configuration generally. Typical scenario on a dive boat - you gear up, stand up, walk to the back, grab the rail and put each fin on in turn before splashing. Some boats won't allow you to walk on the deck with your fins already on - it's not safe. When you're reboarding in anything but the most benign conditions you typically float on a line off the back of the boat, take your fins off, slip them over your arm and then go up the ladder - or hand them up. The straps make both of those operations much more convenient.

For shore diving, you'll be taught to put your gear on and walk out to deeper water before putting your fins on. In some areas good thick soled treaded boots are a requirement also - just off the shore line there can be sea urchins, sharp coral, ironshore (fossilized sharp coral) and other hazards. Go to Bonaire (shore dive capital of the Caribbean) with full foot fins and you'll come back with shredded feet - it happens occasionally even with boots.

Most open-heel fins have enough adjustment so that you can wear either thin boots in warm climates or thick boots when it's cold. A popular option is bungee or spring straps they're much less likely to break. Compare them to standard fin straps in the store - I break one about every 4-5 years - they just can't take the abuse - or often the exposure to the sun.

Full foot fins have a following. It's people who only shore dive off sandy beaches or boat dive on small boats where they often put fins on then backroll off the side of the boat. They're also very popular in rental fleets since they don't also have to stock rental boots.

Split Fins are optimal for one thing - going forward fast with less effort. And they're nice if you're old/when you get old. But you can't back up in them, do fancy turns etc. since the very design means they split when retracted. They're also generally more expensive because the designer locked down his patents tight and charges a hefty royalty per pair - to this day. The reason you see full-foot split fins for a 3rd the cost is because he missed that.

A good pair of paddle fins is >$100. Since you seem to like Mares, let me tell you from experience that their locking fins straps are one of the worse things I've ever used. I bent back several nails trying to get them to unlock before I threw them away and went back to standard straps.

Are you looking for lightweight for travel purposes? Because the Mares Hybrid isn't what I'd call a lightweight BCD at 6.2 lbs. Even a Zeagle Stiletto - which functions as both a cold eater and warm water/travel BCD is 5.7lbs.

If you plan to travel to dive, get a travel optimized BCD instead - something like a Zeagle Covert (under 4lbs.) Aqualung Zuma or ScubaPro Lighthawk. Just about every mfr. makes one also. One that's sort of caught my attention lately is the Hollis Ride also - they seem to be directly competing with Zeagle's Express Tech - a minimalist soft backplate design. It will actually take doubles (not very well) if you ever decide to. Another nice feature of travel BC's is they fold up/roll-up - pack small. You can carry on a Covert, it rolls into a big newspaper sized bundle. The Zuma comes with a drawstring bag for the same reason.

I also wouldn't buy expensive gear before certification. And understand that your dealer may have ulterior motives in suggesting that.

First of all, most of them get one good shot at selling you a lot of expensive gear - during your class. Some also have marketing agreements to fulfill so that may bias their suggestions. In addition, many times your instructor will be outfitted in gear supplied by the shop during your class - even though his optimized personal gear is completely different. Coincidence that it's generally not the lowest end stuff they sell? Occasionally an ad pops up in our classifieds from a dive professional selling his personal gear since he's doing too many classes to use it. There's also a keyman discount offered by some mfr's to instructors and others in the industry who are regularly seen in gear.

Buy your gear, use it in the pool and find out it's not right for you? Your shop will likely take it back - as used. Likely for 1/2 of what you paid 2 weeks earlier.

There's a shop in SoCal where they oversell you on custom stuff - including several thousand dollar drysuits - in SoCal that makes some sense. But "your" custom drysuit is not returnable. And neglect to mention that trying it on and getting it wet in their pool makes it used....

 

[drrich2]

Regulators need occasional servicing, so choose a brand that your local dive shop (LDS) services. Some reputable brands are Atomic Aquatics, ScubaPro, Apeks and AquaLung. You have a choice of yoke valve or DIN; in the U.S. & Caribbean yoke is overwhelmingly the market share leader. DIN is choice in some technical diving and some other parts of the world from what I understand, and some people in an insert to convert to yoke when they need to. You will probably get yoke, being in the U.S.

Do you anticipate doing any markedly cold water diving? I ask because some people get environmentally sealed regulators to reduce the risk of a freeze up. If you are a hands-on do-it-yourself type, you may want to look at the HOG/EDGE regulators as people speak of being able to service them themselves. Not my thing, you can can search other threads; it's a reputable brand name, too.

Wrist computers are fine. A big issue is air-integrated (either comes with, or has option to add, a wireless transmitter to your regulator's 1st stage to show pressure on the compeer). Another big issue is whether you want a model that can log your dives, via hooking up a cable (sometimes a roughly $100 add-on) to your computer. Of the Oceanic line, the Geo 2 is a reputable basic computer that can log dives, the Atom 3 adds AI, and the VT4 is similar but a larger unit.

You can get larger screen, color displays, like the LiquiVision Lynx and Oceanic's got one out now, too, but be mindful some of these computers can go through batteries a lot faster from what I read, so you'll be opening thing thing up & changing batteries more often. Could be worth it to you; older computer interfaces can remind you of programing a digital watch. I don't like opening battery compartments.

There are many threads on BP/W. Worth a look. To start, you can get a light (for travel) aluminum backplate, or a heavy stainless steel one that reduces the amount of weight you need to add. You can get one without much padding which further reduces the amount of weight you need to add to sink it. They have a reputation for making it easier to achieve horizontal trim in the water, though you may not float quite as vertically at the surface (may pitch forward a little) from what I understand. Haven't got to try one yet. I'm still diving my old Sherwood Avid BCD. A recent thread indicates it's often best to have someone who knows them help you get it fitted to yourself. One hurdle for some people with BP/W is all the choice; aluminum or steel back plate, what size wing, whether to use weight-integrated pockets, etc… But it's a modular and thus customizable product. If you have the option to try one out, you ought to.

Okay, the fin wars. Split fins have a rep. (in other words, I'm drawing on what others have said) for being easier on the legs (helped a brother-in-law of mine with foot cramps) and more forgiving of bad technique. This is using the flutter kick that most people start out with and about all some people use. They also have a rep. for being harder to frog kick in (a popular technique for some) and even harder to back kick in, and arguably may perform somewhat worse in current (I've heard different views on that). If I got anything wrong, perhaps someone will share. Spring straps are very popular whatever fin you wear. Open heel will be more versatile as you can wear different kind of boots for cold/warm water, and walk in wearing protective boots but not fins when shore diving regions with rough, rocky bottoms (e.g.: Bonaire).

Something that may not get stressed in class, but is a good idea for the ocean diving, is an SMB (surface marker buoy) and either a finger spool or reel. If you get far from the dive boat, your little head isn't going to be easy to see for the waves. A 4 to 6 foot hot orange or yellow tube sticking straight up is. A cutting tool in case of entanglement is a good idea; you don't need a big 'fight off sharks' knife. A Trilobyte is a small, flattened easy to deploy device that can be put on your chest strap. Not titanium but surprisingly cheap, doesn't rust fast and you can get extra blades.

For a dive knife, people will argue if you wash it right after diving you 'don't need' titanium or H1 steel, and stainless steel is fine. I call crap. Human nature doesn't lend itself to meticulous knife care. I've had 2 of the nearly $40 stainless steel knives rust up on me; evidently they're not the same stainless steel as the D-rings on your BCD. I recommend either a titanium knife, or one of the Spyderco H1 steel knives, as these basically do not rust. I picked up a [h=1]Spyderco Salt I Serrated Edge H-1 Steel Knife at Amazon; it'll run you around $65+, but like titanium, it stops being so much more expensive once you don't need to buy a replacement. [/h]
Richard.

---------- Post added March 8th, 2015 at 11:24 PM ----------

P.S.: When traveling with a dive knife, it goes in checked baggage (not carry on). But on a cruise, they confiscated mine, so be mindful of the possibility if you go on a cruise.

 

[Jayfarmlaw]

I'm a new diver and bought several sets of equipment to outfit my family. My advice would be to rent some equipment for pool dives and see what you like. Talk to your instructor about the different options.

Edge gear has some great regs at very reasonable prices. I bought 4 sets new from Dive Right In with octos for myself and family with no regrets.

masks are not really one size fits all and I'm still looking for the perfect one. I have a hard to fit face and have tried on over 50 masks by this point. Leisure pro has a fit guarantee though. I own 3 that are close...but not perfect.

We were certified last fall and I was able to buy several sets (BCDs, tanks, weights, fins, etc) used off of craigslist, some had never been used. We went with one piece fins instead of splits. Wetsuits were easy to find even new close outs on line. Jacket style BCD's are the most common, I personally didn't care for a back inflate, but I only rented it once . I'm sure I would become a fan if I used it more or even went with a back plate/wing set up. Aluminum 80 tanks are by far the most common, current vis and hydro are good, but not necessary as long as you figure that cost into the purchase. Steel tanks require less weight but have different issues. There is a huge learning curve, but it's easy to get around with a little research. Leisure pro has great prices, Dive Right In also gives 10% credit towards your next purchase, your local dive shop is a great resource too. Most dive shops have a limited selection and cater to just a few brands, but the personal service may be worth the additional cost.

i think the best advice would be research sites so you know what your options are. Until you are certified, there is no need to go nuts on the purchase because diving may not be for you and equipment is expensive. If you buy a wrist computer and then see an air integrated large screen Oceanic Pro Plus for the same price (I love mine and so does my wife who has a wrist computer) you're going to have a moment of regret.

Dive a a little with rental equipment, go through your course and maybe a dive trip or five and see what is out there. Until you know what options are out there, and what you like, you stand the chance of buying something not right for you. Unless it's a great deal, and you know what your getting, you may buy equipment you don't like in the water.

Welcome me to the site, enjoy your class, and have a safe dive!

jay

 

[TSandM]

You don't tell us where you are, or what kind of diving you envision doing, and it matters.

Masks have to fit. Whether it's inexpensive or over-the-top, if it fits right and doesn't leak, it's worth the price.

I would strongly recommend against any kind of split fin for a certification class. You may decide to use them later, but they are worthless for stabilizing a student who's trying to learn to balance a tank on their back. If you are diving in warm water, a plastic fin that's pretty much neutral or positive in the water is a good choice. If you are diving in cold water (Pacific), a fin that sinks will help to balance the exposure protection you'll need in open water. Spring or bungee or stretch rubber straps are a very good choice, because they make donning fins easier, and they are unlikely to come off.

BCDs are very personal. They have to fit, because if they don't, the tank slops around on your back and life is difficult underwater. Many of the selling points of BCs prove less wonderful in real life than they are in the shop -- this include integrated weight systems and pockets. As with everyone else above, I would hold off on buying a BC until you have completed your class. And if you intend to do diving in your local area, visit a few local dive sites and look at what the well-worn gear looks like. In Puget Sound, the folks who have been diving for years will mostly have very similar equipment, simply because it's what works well in our waters, and with the diving we do. I suspect it's the same everywhere.

Also, if you have a free evening, take a look at a thread here entitled, "What did you buy that you regret?". Despite the entries about wedding rings, the thread is full of good information to prevent you from making the same mistakes a lot of us made and expensively rectified.