convertible style tank valves

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Bigeclipse

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Location
USA - New York
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All...I bought a DIN reg last year. So far I have only used it with the yoke conversion piece on the tanks I have. I share tanks with my dad. Although I love the regulator...using that yoke converter kind of makes the whole thing stick out even further and once in a while I can feel it with my head. I'm going to start switching a few of the tanks over to DIN this summer. I wanted to stick with the convertible type so my dad can use the tanks as well. Are they all pretty decent or is there ones I should avoid? Am I asking for trouble with this conversion types? There are 6 tanks total and I'd be changing 3 of them over. Normally my dad and I would simply use the dedicated tanks we have but I would want him to still be able to use the ones I convert in a pinch if needed. This is the reasoning for the convertibles. Thanks all!
 
Convertible valves are not a problem waiting to happen. You can get them pretty cheap, just make sure whoever does your annual service cleans the valve threads real well as well as the insert itself as they tend to get gunked up pretty good if you are diving salt water.
 
Convertible valves are not a problem waiting to happen. You can get them pretty cheap, just make sure whoever does your annual service cleans the valve threads real well as well as the insert itself as they tend to get gunked up pretty good if you are diving salt water.

Thanks! No salt water for me in the near future. Also I'm pretty mechanically inclined. Obviously I won't install them BUT as far as removing and cleaning the inserts I don't mind doing that part unless there's stuff to consider with that part.
 
The Thermo pro is probably as good as any. I've had some for a decade, no issues. There are some scrappy looking copycats that may be OK but lack the finish and polish of the Thermo.

You're not asking for trouble whatsoever But remember that the insert threads are exposed to salt water and will want periodic cleaning and removal so they don't seize up. If you will be swapping around this will take care of itself. The worst situation is to dive them undisturbed in salt water for along time and then try to remove them once crusty.

When installing the inserts don't over tighten them. If too tight the insert will favor the pitch of the thread and may not seal off well to the yoke clamp. You just want to snug the insert as a DIN regulator would do when connecting.

Pete
 
Convertible valves are not a problem waiting to happen. You can get them pretty cheap, just make sure whoever does your annual service cleans the valve threads real well as well as the insert itself as they tend to get gunked up pretty good if you are diving salt water.

Thanks! No salt water for me in the near future. Also I'm pretty mechanically inclined. Obviously I won't install them BUT as far as removing and cleaning the inserts I don't mind doing that part unless there's stuff to consider with that part.

When you take the tank in for the annual vis it is easy to tell the shop to clean the valve, replace the burst disk etc...honestly they should be doing that anyway. Cleaning involves little more than some vinegar and a toothbrush. The burst disk can be replaced in 30 seconds.
 
Removing of an insert is easy, just have to get the right size of allen keys. There's 2 (3?) of them at least.

I don't like them too much because I don't understand yoke 1st stages. But except that they're fine. Just keep in mind they'll add a 2nd o-ring on your tank, and that if it's leaking, you should check that one too. Just saying this because I've actually had people that didn't know this and didn't check the other side of the insert (and yes, those were DMs in a shop) :blinking:

Also, don't manage to find a 300b valve, or you'll have a sad surprise :D

---------- Post added May 16th, 2015 at 10:19 PM ----------

And for cleaning, toothbrush + warm water and a tiny bit of vinegar if needed. But don't forget to rinse if you use vinegar...
 
No reason to replace burst disks annually IMHO. And there's no rocket science involved with installing valves or inserts. Just remember that the o-ring makes the seal, so there is no reason to really torque down on it. Hand tight plus a little is all it takes. DGX has an inexpensive line of valves that have been good so far. They may lack the finish of Thermos and not last as long, but it'll be many years before I can make that assessment. Used convertible valves can be found easily on the forums, scuba swaps, and eBay.


iPhone. iTypo. iApologize.
 
Thermo Pro. Remove the insert regularly to ensure it does not freeze up.

As to the valve/reg hitting your head, refer to the thread about low hanging tanks. Yeah, drop your tank down you High Tanker! :wink:

N
 
Thermo Pro. Remove the insert regularly to ensure it does not freeze up.

As to the valve/reg hitting your head, refer to the thread about low hanging tanks. Yeah, drop your tank down you High Tanker! :wink:

N

Haha actually my tank is already about the right height. Me head never hit until I got this DIN reg and then use one of those yoke converter things. It makes the reg stick way out even compared to regular yoke regs. Never happened when I used my other yoke rges or my dads.
 
I have the same set up and a BC with no back plate. Drop the tank an inch or two an it will make a world of difference. It will make you a little foot heavy though. Trim weights higher on the tank fixed that for me.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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