Which steel tank?!?!

[Yoyoguy]

I knew I would eventually want a steel tank and after a recent thread debacle about "pony bottles...cough cough im a" I have decided I would maybe bump to getting a steel tank sooner than later. (this summer instead of next). I have read many articles and threads and dang there is a ton of info out there about tanks. It appears 100cu or maybe 120cu is what im after. I will use this bottle for deeper dives (60ft-130ft) I just finished my nitrox certification and I will finish my deep diver certification soon. I doubt I will be diving often past 100ft (very very rare if ever until tech course). Looking to extend my bottom times a touch but stay in recreational limits of course. This will be a singles tank for now. I may go to a double setup later which may lead me towards a 100cu. The dive shop I go to right now can actively do a good HP fill but if they ever closed I honestly have no idea how the other shops fills are. Never went to those shops so not sure if I should consider LPs but I do like the size of the HPs better. Open to any and all thoughts! and yes I will continue to work on my SAC rates to help with my bottom time issues but either way I want a STEEL tank for better buoyancy characteristics and longer bottom times.

Build: 5'9 185lbs (slight beer belly if that matters)

 

[luscioman]

You will get a lot of different answers for this. I prefer to use Faber HP tanks. I dont know how tall you are or your build but considering your consumption of air i would consider getting a Faber 117 CU. I currently have 100s and 117s and use the 117 more often. I usually come up with over 1,000 psi after a 100 foot dive but it is nice to have the extra. The Faber 120 is very tall and proved to be a pain to use on boats with bungee straps. It also would not fit in some fill stations.

 

[Yoyoguy]

You will get a lot of different answers for this. I prefer to use Faber HP tanks. I dont know how tall you are or your build but considering your consumption of air i would consider getting a Faber 117 CU. I currently have 100s and 117s and use the 117 more often. I usually come up with over 1,000 psi after a 100 foot dive but it is nice to have the extra. The Faber 120 is very tall and proved to be a pain to use on boats with bungee straps. It also would not fit in some fill stations.

I am not positive about my SAC rate yet. Will be doing some more diving this weekend. The example I gave in that other thread was one 100ft dive which I was taking pictures and video so slightly task loaded. I definitely need to SLOW down and really practice my kick styles better. I don't want to buy a 117/120 just to be a crutch for bad habits BUT if that is a consensus here then maybe I will. I heard 100s are more the norm and what I would use in a double setup should I progress to doubles.

 

[decompression]

One of the best all around tanks is the HP 100. It's a great tank for a majority of rec dives with sufficient cf left for rock bottom. When twinned for
doubles, give excellent cf for a very wide variety of profiles. They are a great size, good buoyancy characteristics and with a LP fill are still around 80 cf unlike Al 80's that are only 77 cf.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Steve_C]

How long is your torso? I am 5'7 (and shrinking). When I dive AL80s I find them a bit long. My go to tanks are HP100s. They fit me much better. I find the longer tanks than that are not too comfortable.

 

[CptTightPants21]

http://www.indianvalleyscuba.com/se...ction/information/CYLINDER SPECIFICATIONS.pdf

Here is a link just to give you some reference.

A Faber 117 could work. With your height, you might want to stay with the slightly shorter tanks...Worthington HP100s, Faber LP95s.

I clocked your SAC rate at .94, even if you take into account some variance of depth, you are elevated. Do you find yourself kicking a lot underwater? If it is just a matter of slowing down and no moving then one of the 100s or 95 tanks would be perfect. If you really can't get that SAC rate under control then move up to the 117 because it will give you greater flexibility for when you dive deeper and/or longer.

 

[The Chairman]

You'll be guessing which is best until you dive them. Just go out and rent/borrow some steel tanks and see which one(s) you like. So far, I haven't met a steel tank that I haven't liked, but I'm just shy of 6 foot and long in the torso, so it really doesn't matter much to me.

 

[tbone1004]

Scuba Tanks - Sherwood 100 Steel

buy those, be done with it.

 

[uncfnp]

...
Build: 5'9 185lbs ...

As others have said or hinted at, there is no right or wrong answer and the best choice is to try them out. But that's not always an option.

Your stats are very near my partners. Just 2 inches less. He started with a pair of HP 100's but after one week of diving went to 120's and never looked back.

My advice...

1) Look around for a good used set at a reasonable price. Two of our three sets were bought used.

2) Go for the highest cf your height will comfortably handle. I frequently hear about divers wanting more air but rarely hear them wanting less for back gas.

3) Buy what you want now and worry about doubles later. Tanks, especially used, hold their value. You can always sale later if you decide you no longer need them. But if you are like most of us you will just collect more.

 

[Yoyoguy]

http://www.indianvalleyscuba.com/se...ction/information/CYLINDER SPECIFICATIONS.pdf

Here is a link just to give you some reference.

A Faber 117 could work. With your height, you might want to stay with the slightly shorter tanks...Worthington HP100s, Faber LP95s.

I clocked your SAC rate at .94, even if you take into account some variance of depth, you are elevated. Do you find yourself kicking a lot underwater? If it is just a matter of slowing down and no moving then one of the 100s or 95 tanks would be perfect. If you really can't get that SAC rate under control then move up to the 117 because it will give you greater flexibility for when you dive deeper and/or longer.

I honestly believe it was the depth of the dive and what I was doing. In all of those dives I was video/taking pictures while wearing my slung 40 pony and holding a main light. I was definitely over taxed as far as work load. I know some dives that I have repeated have been half as long as the same dive the weekend before due to how fast I was swimming. When I go slow, focus on my technique and not rush, my air consumption tends to match everyone else I dive with. I just have not made a lot of deeper dives yet (past 70ft) so definitely need to slow down and make more dives and get comfortable. I know my SAC rate will likely be average once I do this. I used to be an athlete in college (hockey/ran track). im now in my early 30s and have a desk job so definitely more out of shape but I still try to be active.

---------- Post added July 1st, 2015 at 02:03 PM ----------

Scuba Tanks - Sherwood 100 Steel

buy those, be done with it.

Tbone saw those actually and was thinking about it. One picture appears to have rust on it though.... thoughts?