Point and shoot hints

[DivingGal]

Like others who have recently posted in this forum (Don and Debbie just to name a couple), I've just decided to take up u/w photography.

I had already decided to go with a "point and shoot" variety to start with - it just seemed to me that there would be only the one thing to worry about (aiming), rather than all the other stuff too.

I'm still not jumping for joy over my pics, as I'm not consistently getting ones I really like. Anyone got hints that may improve my picture taking?

 

[Rick Murchison]

I have some of my point & shoot photos at:
http://msnhomepages.talkcity.com/SupportSt/rickmurchison/bonaire00.html
The first three rules of thumb are "get low, get close, shoot up" . I'd also recommend a roll shot in a swimming pool of objects of known size, using a tape measure for distance, so you can train your eye to see what the camera's really going to take compared to what you're seeing through the viewfinder. It will surprise you, and arm you with vital information you can use to get what you want underwater.
And be patient.
Rick

 

[Dee]

"get low, get close, shoot up" is great advice. When you're as close as you think you should be, get closer! And learning to judge your distances u/w is necessary. Most point and shoot cameras have a fixed focal length and it's your judgement of these distances that will make or break a photo. Being just 2-3 inches too close or too far away, and you'll miss the shot, especially with macro and close-up wide angle shots.

You don't mention what kind of set-up you use. But another consideration is your strobes. All strobes are only good within 3-4 feet, another reason for getting close!

Good luck and let us see some of your photos.

 

[bio guy]

Are there certain aspects of your pictures that your are not impressed with (colour, picking up suspended particles, focus, depth etc)?

Dee...I guess I'm a little slow but I finally figured out what that was below your name on the posts....A scuba diver blowing bubbles!!! That's neat!

 

[DivingGal]

Thanks all for the advice. I'm off to the pool Thursday to test out distances.

The main "issues" I've not been impressed with are the colour and the particles.

I've had problems with focus (being inconsistent) but I think the get close, then closer will solve it.

I use 400 film, with a marine filter on the camera (*&%&^%& I forget the camera brand)

 

[bio guy]

i used to use 400...but really didn't find it helped for the pictures I was taking...now I use 200 without a problem..but that is totally a personal choice, don't be scared to try different speeds and find one that works for you.

Particles I might be able to give some suggestions on (cause every lake around here has that problem). Dee's point about the strobe is important..Does yours have a detachable strobe or can you add one...that will make a world of difference. Getting the flash farther away from the lense and at an angle other than straight on will dramatically reduce the particles you pick up. The bottom line is, think about this. The light from the strobe has to travel from the strobe-to the object-and back...any particles it has to travel through will be lit up..so by moving the strobe and playing with angling it..you can reduce the distance the light has to travel and thereby the number of particles. The angling will change the angle of reflection of the light off the particles, which although it may not completely remove them...can make them much less apparent.

Hope that helps a bit

 

[Dee]

DivingGal, You can probably get rid of that 'marine' filter. Anytime you use a filter, you need to change your aperature down one stop, at least. And with a strobe, you'll get the light you need to show the true colors. Your colors will improve with the strobe, it's a must for u/w photography. Without one, your photos will just look like snapshots! That said, a strobe will only penetrate 3-4ft. Anything past that will always have the blue shages and no filter will replace the color, only make it darker.

Yes, one you learn to judge distances, your focus will improve. Depending on your lens, most depths of field (the in focus area) is measured in inches! My 2T macro lens has a depth of field of 1/2"!!! Which means anything in front of and behind that 1/2" is out of focus. The pool excercises will really help.

Bio Guy is right on about the backscatter. Most point and shoot cameras that have a fixed strobe will produce the backscatter, even when you aren't aware it's there. The light from the flash/strobe hits the stuff in the water and reflects it directly back into the lens. When the angle of the strobe is changed, the backscatter is still there, but the reflection from the strobe isn't directed back to the lens...it just shoots off to the side.

After trying all speeds of film, my favorite print film is ASA100 Fuji Reala. It's a fine grain film that makes 8x10 enlargements possible and the color has really true reds and blues. With a strobe, you don't need the faster films, (200, 400, etc.)In fact the slower 100 film allows for better color saturations. At least in my opinion and experience. But try them all and use what you like the best.

Here's another one for you, BioGuy...

Dee
<')////(<

 

[joewr]

I recommend that you read one of the following books--very light reading! They are: Edge's Underwater Photography and Church's Guide to Nikonos Systems. Although they are aimed at divers with more complex systems than you are now using, they will give you the info you need on setting up photos.

Two key points: (1) get close to the subject--called, "reducing the column of water between you and the subject and (2) use as much strobe as you can for artificially lighted shots.

ASA 400 is fine for "snapshots" and photos that are not to be enlarged too much. If your camera is "auto" and you select the aperature, you can stop it down and take advantage of a greater depth of field. But it will not make the photos any brighter--justs makes the problem of focus less dicey. If all this sounds too technical, read the one of the books I mentioned and it will become clearer.

The most disappointing thing most new uw photographers experience is the ghastly blue cast their photos have--just nothing like the multicolored splendor that we see down there! This is the light problem and the only solution is a strobe (or 2). The little spots of light, as others, have mentioned is backscatter from particles and the only real cure for that is a strobe(s) held a distance from the camera. This can be done with a hand and/or arms (non-human) attached to the strobe (Ultralite, Ikelite, etc.)

And now you know why I went from a throwaway Kodak to a Weathermatic to a Nikonos with a master strobe and a slave strobe. And wide angle lenses. And...... And I am beginning to succumb to the need to buy a housing for my Nikon!

Yep, I slipped down the slippery slope to gearheadism! I just hope that I never get a hernia from dragging all the clothing, scuba gear and photo gear through airports!


Joewr

 

[bio guy]

Hey Dee...I think I just saw a fish swim by..lol..(least that's what it looks like to me)

Haven't tried 100 ASA, but then again I haven't really done much enlarging of my pics, but after readying these posts I'm going to try a roll.