Dacor reg

[50sdiver]

I'm new to Scuba Board, so please bare with me.
I'v been diving since the late 60's and have always used a US Divers Conshelf 12 reg. It breathed good , didn't free flow, worked good under ice, ect. How ever it was stolen and the dive shop wants to sell me a Dacor Viper TEC/HUB rig as the replacement. I do a wide variety of diving including in water boat repairs in the Mississippi river. Can you give me any input about this reg?
Thanks
50sdiver

 

[Mario S Caner]

Hello 50's diver, welcome to the boards. I'm sure you have plenty of really cool stories that you can share with us... I can't wait!

As for the Dacor Viper Tec, it's a nice regulator. Though I didn't get an entire dive on the unit, I did take a few breaths from one at depth and found it to breath nicely.

 

[bio guy]

50sdiver....welcome aboard.

"the dive shop wants to sell me a Dacor Viper TEC/HUB rig as the replacement"

I don't have any experience with the viper tec/hub rig....Just wanted to make sure the dive shop informed you that the conshelf 14, is available from USD/Aqualung.

 

[Iguana Don]

Personally speaking, if you do any kind of commercial work the "Hub" is not for you. He's probably recomending it because he's stuck with it and needs to push it, also they have come out with a new "Hub". The "Hub" is mostly for travleling divers that want it all in one package, BC, Reg & guages, all in one neat little package.

Also the "Viper" has a tendancy to freeflow due to the small diaphram, (small diaphram means stiffer) it takes more IM pressure to crack, but when it cracks it starts to free-flow on the surface. I have noticed this in several of their models, The "Extreme" and the "Viper".

I used to dive out of a Dacor Shop and have experience with their equipment.

Just some more of my .02 have plenty left.

Don

 

[50sdiver]

Thanks for the info, Guys it helps.

Don, you said that the HUB rig isn't for any one who does commerical work. Why? It looks like a good idea having all the hoses out of the way, nothing to tangle,nothing out there for current to tug on. I always have used a 90' swivel on the regulator and brought the hose up under my arm to reduce entanglements, and then found it to be eazy on the mouth with no current drag on the hose.
Would any one like to comment?

It looks like I'll have to dive one of the Viper TECs before I buy some. I'm also outfitting my 16 yr old daughter whos new to diving.

The dive shop did a lot of bad mouth on the Aqualung brand, said that the French realy cheapened them up since they hated having the name 'US Divers' brand on their equipment. I guess the was just vecause he doesn't sell them, huh?

 

[turnerjd]

Originally posted by 50sdiver
Thanks for the info, Guys it helps.

Don, you said that the HUB rig isn't for any one who does commerical work. Why? It looks like a good idea having all the hoses out of the way, nothing to tangle,nothing out there for current to tug on. I always have used a 90' swivel on the regulator and brought the hose up under my arm to reduce entanglements, and then found it to be eazy on the mouth with no current drag on the hose.
Would any one like to comment?

50's diver,

I looked at the HUB out of interest last time I was in the dive shop. My observation was that

1 It was probably quite good for someone traveling to warm water who wanted an integrated, simple to use unit.

2. It was a good marketing ploy by Mares, they get you to buy not only their BCD, but their Reg as well, and in the most expensive, there was (IF I remember correctly) a computer in there as well.

3. The construction was suitable for warm water only. - not many people realise, but companies like scubapro sell different versions of the same model for different conditions. Compare the same model in eg the UK, and the bahamas. I have a scubapro Master jacket, a friend bought one from a dive centre in Antigua, the backplate was much thinner, the material was much thinner, the whole construction was lighter.

As for your hose routing, I prefer the hose for my primary second stage over my shoulder, but whatever you are happiest with, is what is best for you. Mebe I am just old fashioned, but I prefer my hoses not hidden away, I don't ever get into holes so small that I will start having to tuck hoses out of the way.

only my .02

Jon T

 

[50sdiver]

Hay JonT: Thanks for the info I didn't know about the different construction stuff. Having the hoses routed down and under your arm isn't just for going into small holes, but it helps with entanglement and current flutter, which makes it easier on your jaw.

 

[Iguana Don]

50sdiver,

Personally, I don't like the idea of having my hoses hidden, especially in a commercial environment. If you have a problem with your equipment, you are going to have to search throughout the BC to trace it down, this can waste precious time when you don't have time to waste.

Also another point to think about is. I have and so has every other diver I know of, either changed out his reg or got a new BC. What if you don't like the reg, but you like the BC or visa versa. You're going to have to lay out big $ again to regear.

If your gear is configured properly, you shouldn't have any flapping hoses, as for jaw problems try the "Seacure" mouthpiece. It's designed after an athletic football mouth piece. Heat it up in boiling water stick it in your mouth, bite down and Presto changeo, no jaw problems.

ID

 

[turnerjd]

50s diver

I've not tried diving with all the hoses out of the way, but, I have never really notices current flutter on my primary reg. Some of the drift diving in the UK is pretty fierce, and I would have thought that I would have noticed it! - mebe I'm just to busy doing other things to notice (like looking after damn sprogs)

I quoted small holes 'cos certainly with the diving I do that's where I will get entangled. - generally speaking wreck diving you will either get a bit of your kit (usually something like the first stage / top of the tank /hoses in that area) caught on a bit of the wreck you can't see, or (certainly here) get caught in monofilament fishing line. Re-routing hoses doesn't affect the line issue, and I generally don't get so far into a wreck that I have to catch bits of tank etc.. there.

I think Iguana Don is right on the money with the mouthpiece. However, what you are most comfortable with is what is best for you.

Jon T

 

[50sdiver]

Thanks for the input it gives me something to think about.
Before I changed the routing and put the hose under my arm I did catch it on a prop or two, and a couple of times on things sticking down under a floating dock. Some of the jobs(?) that I've done require sliding down a line tied around the bottom of a boat anchored in the river to free /repair a rudder. When I've done this the current in the Mississippi (3-5 mph no vis, like diving in mud)made some distinct flutter in the hose, rerouting solved all of those problems. I ALLWAYS check ALL gear for condition and function, the day before the dive so I'm ready to go when I get there. It's been a few years (3 or 4), but I was charging US$100.00+ per simple job. (It cheaper to pay me that to haul the boat out of the water since a 50' boat costs $5/foot out and $5/foot back in.) The owner supplies transport (if the boats out in the river) and a line tender. Since there's no vis, its a solo dive, I tie a line around the bottom of the boat so I can (sometines) find the work area, a second line from me to the boat topside, and all parts, and tools are tied to me separatly cause if you drop it its gone for ever, and I fell kind of stupid telling the owner that they need to go buy another new $100.00 prop because I dropped the first one. (don't get many call backs that way)
I'll be getting the Seacure mouth piece though, didn't know about those.
Looking at the BC in the store it looks like I can use any second stage I want, but I'll have to use their first stage, thats not too big a thing since its completly sealed.
Thanks for the feed back.
50's diver