Using my boat as a dive platform

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eng208

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Location
Plains Ga
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I have an older Bayliner Rendezvous Cat that has performed great for a family boat. We have taken it to the Gulf a few times and ventured out about 3-4 miles with calmer waters. We mainly stay in the bays, but I am looking at possibly using this boat for some of the closer dive destinations around Mexico Beach. A friend of mine that has much more experience in boats in salt water used to venture out 20-25 miles in a 16' flats boat and says my boat is much better than what he had. Anyway, before I do something bordering on stupid, I would like to get some recommendations and advice.
Thanks
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Venturing out 20+ miles into open ocean can be a unsettling task and I applaud your request for knowledge. I will omit the basic boating requirement like flares, life vests, ect. I will also omit general maintenance requirements.
I will pretty much just go through my general procedure. FYI I have a small 20' Skip Jack and I launch at several marinas around Los Angeles and dive all the Channel Islands. 20 miles is this minimum distance one way on average.
First and foremost is knowing the ocean condition forecast. You need to pay attention to all factors like swell size and direction, swell period, wind, tides, etc. Ocean conditions will dictate your entire experience like where you can go, when to launch, how far you can go, how long you can stay, etc. Always do a pre-systems check several days before every outing. This includes at a minimum: starting boat and monitoring temp and gauges, check throttle, forward and reverse gears, make sure trim tabs work, check all navigational lights work, confirm appropriate amount of life vests and emergency gear is aboard, verify fire extinguishers are full, check docking lines and anchor are appropriate for location, add water to engine compartment to confirm bilge pump works (always carry a manual pump for emergency), check battery's and connections. There are many other items I could add to this list but you can use this as a base. It is highly advisable to have a membership with Vessel Assist. You don't want to get stuck 20 miles offshore and need a tow back. It is much more expensive than the cost of a yearly membership and provides a great peace of mind. I do system checks at least 1-2 days before departing which gives me time to repair any problems that might arise during the check. Having proper navigational equipment is very important. At a minimum you should have a compass (and know how to use it), and a fish finder. Radar is also important if you are launching in the dark or overcast conditions. It may be clear when you leave but you could run into an unexpected fog bank and that is like playing Russian roulette. It is hard enough to navigate when you can't see land but it's entirely another issue when you can't see other boats.
I won't get into detail about managing and stowing dive gear.
Anchoring is a critical task especially if you are planning to dive and leaving the boat unattended. I have done this over 100 times and I still worry if my boat will be there when my dive is over. Be sure you have the right size and type of anchor for your boat. Be sure there is the correct amount and size of chain connected and ample amount of rope to use. There are several sites you can find on the internet that will advise you of the proper way to anchor a boat. Don't just drop the anchor to the bottom and tie it off. Make sure you extend the rope out far enough to allow for swells, wind and tide changes. The first thing you need to do when descending underwater is follow the anchor line to the bottom and make sure your anchor is set. I always reposition my anchor, finding a spot where I can wedge it so I am completely confident it will not release. Wind, swells and tide can and will pull and move your anchor side to side and up and down so make sure you secure it well. If you have done your homework properly you will not have put yourself in a unsafe situation where the conditions will make anchoring difficult or worrisome. After you have finished the dive be sure to remove the anchor and position it so it can be pulled to the surface with ease.
It is recommended to tie a weighted line off one side of your boat descending at least 20' for safety stops and waiting to board boat. You should also tie a surface line off the other side to allow for waiting at the surface and especially for currents.
There are many issues to be addressed here but I will allow others to fill in the blanks. Always plan for the worst and hope for the best. Know what you and your boat are capable of handling and never ever put yourself and especially others in a potentially harmful situation. If there is ever ANY doubt in your mind about the possibility of conditions being unsafe then your decision has been made for you. Mother nature is very unforgiving and unpredictable and it is better to be safe than sorry or even worse......dead.
 
Thank you for the time you allocated to posting this. There are many ideas here that I have not thought of and will use. I especially like the lines hanging off the port and starboard side for quick reference. I do all of the maintenance and repairs on this boat myself and take time to start it up before heading to the ramp. I also have most of the safety equipment on board, with exception of a VHF radio and navigation. Since I have yet to do this, I have not had a need to purchase this equipment yet. I will most likely buy a handheld unit so I do not have it on the boat except when needed.
Thanks again. You sound very experienced.
 
First - this is only my experience and yours may be different. I have mostly used my boat in fresh water lakes where it is relatively calm and the occasional storm can be ridden out or shelter can be found relatively quickly.

Up in NJ I dont venture much past 3 to 5 miles in the Atlantic for several reasons - I own a 21.5 foot bowrider 250 Mercury I/O engine single prop (lake boat). The first is I don't have Radar, I carry a handle held GPS, I dont have a built in VHF radio and I don't have a second prop/engine. In my opinion only - you need two engines/props to go out that far - should one fail in a storm you are pretty scr*wed. So I stick close to shore for those reasons... The distance does not scare me - the breaking down and not having a backup to limp home does.... I dive with my son and for those long distance dives - I would prefer to dive with a charter than to risk his life and my boat on a single engine...

Good luck with your decision. Safe boating.
 
The biggest problem I see with your boat is that there is no real bow. If you take one good size wave head on the boat fills up with water so fast that it can not drain out the back fast enough. The front is wide open but your engine compartment blocks off most of the stern so the water can only get out of the small door in the stern. This puts a lot of weight in the boat real fast and holds it there too long. If this does not swamp the boat another wave could push the boat in a way that will cause the water inside to shift to one side and capsize the boat. This is just the wrong boat for that job.
 
I do a lot of coastal fishing in small boats - a 22ft I/O runabout at the moment, also a 16ft inflatable. I take the runabout out as far as 60 miles. But in truth it makes me a bit nervous! Help, and even communication, can be non-existent or at least very long in coming, at distances more than a few miles from shore.

Here's how I break down confidence for offshore use:

For simple survivability: 100% reliable flotation (and warmth) - if the boat has watertightness-weaknesses (things like sterndrive propulsion, open bow, low freeboard, a transom door, or scuppers/through-hulls w/o a quick means of accessing and stopping a leak), it's best to have backup flotation like a liferaft, or at least exposure suits for everyone on board. Most modern boats up to I think 26 ft are supposed to have positive flotation when swamped, but how many would want to rely solely on that if life were at stake? If your pontoon boat has independent essentially watertight hulls, you probably have that covered. I take an 8mm wetsuit w/boots/hood/gloves every time I launch the boat - staying afloat is job #1, but avoiding hypothermia is a close second even in temperate waters. Around here you die of cold before anything else. Plan on surviving many hours in the water.

Hand pumps and redundant, well-maintained, over-sized bilge pumps are great tools for keeping a minor leak from swamping a hull. In addition to the built-in pumps, I have a Rule 4000 with long alligator clips and outlet hose that can be dropped into any compartment or location as needed. If your engines aren't running, batteries won't last long so have a couple of those bicycle-style hand pumps - they are surprisingly efficient. A corollary is to know your battery circuits and switching, and to make sure they're set up and used so the risk of accidentally running down all batteries is nil. Take a backup marine battery not wired into your starting and house circuits, to keep your communications gear running should your in-built systems be lost.

For confidence in eventual help/rescue: redundant GPS and communication systems. I'd strongly advise a quality 25 watt VHF station and antenna, with at least one handheld backup (and another in the ditch bag, along with a handheld GPS). A handheld will not have adequate range if you're in or low to the water and more than a couple of miles from the nearest help. Even a 25 watt station may not reach more than 10 miles under bad conditions. Learn which channels the local fishing and commercial traffic use. You can get VHF radios with DSC, which is an emergency button that broadcasts your GPS coordinates. An EPIRB/PLB with internal GPS is also a must, and offers redundancy that is long-range and independent of the boat's batteries. A satphone would be a big plus for building confidence among the crew and your loved ones on shore. Aside from the satphone, none of this stuff is particularly expensive any longer. A broadcasting AIS might be another good option. For awhile, $100 cell phone boosters that offered 25+ mile range were popular around here but I don't hear much about them any more.

Once you have the basic equipment needs adequately and redundantly covered, the most important thing, as mentioned above, is the choices you make on the water, especially with regards to seas and weather. The ocean is obviously not like most any freshwater body and will regularly throw way more at you than any small boat can withstand. Around here we get big seas and winds, but typically not without fairly good predictability over an hours-to-day or so horizon. You don't want to be caught out in bad conditions - ever - so if you're in an area where squalls can develop with little warning, that's something to respect. In fact, until the seas get to 8-10 ft and closely spaced, I pay almost sole attention to wind. I find it a much more significant factor. Don't be the weekend warrior who tries to finesse the coming storm. Once seas are up, headway can drop to just a few knots. That makes for a long trip home with plenty of time for more to go wrong. Your boat looks very exposed to heavy sea conditions - how does that bow handle oncoming steep chop? Does it rise, or plunge? A friend with a very nice and otherwise seaworthy 29' Pursuit found out that following seas - mostly just wind chop - would ride up the swim platform and swamp the air intakes, killing his motors and resulting in a 25-mile tow back to port on a day that should have been routine.

Buddy-boating is an excellent insurance policy.

One last suggestion for diving - have a really long float line out, make sure every diver has good surface signalling devices (tall SMBs, flares, whistle, air horn), and for sure that someone is left on the boat who knows how everything works and what to do.
 

As mentioned by BRD you can run into some serious issues if you have only one engine. My boat is a single engine and this is why I use and suggested you have an alternative option in the event of a motor failure. I have had my motor seize up while off the coast of Santa Cruz Island 25 miles from the mainland. The first thing you should do in that situation is drop the anchor. Unfortunately you may be in waters deeper than the amount of anchor line available. In that case you could be in trouble. Be advised that after I called vessel assist, it took over three hours to arrive at my location and 4-5 hours (normally a 1 hour trip) to tow us back to port. Another alternative is to purchase a small outboard engine. I would think a minimum of 25HP would work for your boat. Having only one engine has never discouraged me from venturing out that far and I don’t believe it is unsafe either. It would be more of a concern if I were flying an airplane.
It is critical however that you have a good VHF radio (preferably hardwired) as a cell phone won’t work and if you accidently drop your hand held on the deck or in the water it could be useless. It is fairly important to have a bottom finder. Unless you are very familiar with the area your diving how will you know where to anchor and what the depth is and is there any reef structure below?
As mentioned by RK it does appear you are at a disadvantage having no bow. You are much more susceptible to incoming waves and that can be catastrophic. It is hard to know how your boat will perform in open conditions. Only you can make this decision based open your current experiences with adverse weather. Of course as mentioned it is critical that if a wave does enter that it have a quick path to drain. I personally believe the dual hull design is much more stable than a deep V single hull and less likely to capsize but I would not want to test this theory. I wouldn’t say it’s the wrong boat for the job but it does create limitations. Knowing this potential for disaster exists, it will now require optimum ocean conditions and awareness of the sudden changes that may confront you.
 
Thanks a lot for the words of advice. I have been in extensive storm driven chop in freshwater lakes that made v hulls slow down and this boat takes it with no problem. With that said, I also understand freshwater lakes just do not get the same kind of chop and swells as what is common in open salt water. The swells and lake chop I have been in were on Lake Eufaula and while impressive, simply doesn't compare to what I witnessed a couple of times going through the Fl passes. I can blow right over anything and everything I have encountered in lakes, even in 20mph headwinds. However, tackling the swells in the passes with the same attitude quickly led to water over the bow and increased pucker factor. After that one episode of learning experience, I didn't have any problems as long as I slowed down on those DEEP trough swells. I had to roller coaster them. I don't like the fact I cannot bring the bow up in those situations to plow through a wave. That is what has me nervous in the first place.

Rich, I think you are right on about the potential problem with the boat style. While a large amount of water on the deck would have to have some considerable time to get into the hulls, I believe it is conceivable and that amount would definitely cause some serious issues. My biggest fear is for a large amount of water over the bow that pitches it stern up such as the incident in Fl with this style boat that occurred on a river a few years ago. In that case however, there was a large number of people in the bow already and a passing barge pushed a tremendous amount of water that overwhelmed the bow. When the boat is up on plane, it does pretty good, the problem comes when it is moving slow and that low bow can act as a spoon.
Thanks for the information. I think I will keep this close to shore and charter anything that goes out past about 2-3 miles. That way I can get back in pretty fast if I see conditions changing.
 
Not to offend you but that boat is not intended for and is poorly designed for use in saltwater offshore or even coastal use. It is essentially a fiberglass pontoon boat. But if you pick your weather and stay close, what is the worse that can happen, it could capsize and sink.

Before everybody had triple engine offshore war wagons, we would run out in Boston Whaler Montauk and Aquasports barely 17 feet long. And I would rather be in one of those than a deck boat or pontoon boat if a bit of weather stirs the seas, not to mention the inlet conditions.

Marine Certification Design Categories:

Certification Design Category
A (Ocean): Designed for extended voyageswhere conditions may exceed wind force 8 on theBeaufort scale (47 mph and above) and significantwave heights of 4 meters (13.12 feet) and above, andvessels largely self-sufficient.
B (Offshore): Designed for offshore voyageswhere conditions up to, and including, wind force 8(39-46 mph) and significant wave heights up to, andincluding 4 meters (13.12 feet) may beexperienced.
C (Inshore): Designed for voyages in coastalwaters, large bays, estuaries, lakes and riverswhere conditions up to, and including, wind force 6(25-31 mph) and significant wave heights up to, andincluding, 2 meters (6.56 feet) may beexperienced.
D (Sheltered waters): Designed for voyages onsmall lakes, rivers and canals where conditions upto, and including, wind force 4 (13-18 mph) andsignificant wave heights up to, and including, 0.5meters (1.64 feet) may be experienced.

My 19 foot Boston Whaler, just for an example, is a Catagory C meaning it is suited for inshore (inshore definition varies, usually three to five miles ) but more importantly is how far are you from the inlet if you need to make a run for it and can your boat handle an inlet when the weather/tides/winds starts to go south on your little adventure.

Good luck.

N
 
To be truely safe you need a minimum of three in the boat. One as your buddy or some one who can help you in water. Somebody who knows how to drive the boat and operate the radio. You come up in a current and you will never swim back to the boat. The boat has to be able to come get you. This happens.
 
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