Welcome to ScubaBoard, an online scuba diving forum community where you can join over 100,000 divers from around the world discussing all things related to Scuba Diving. To gain full access to ScubaBoard you must register for a free account.
As a registered member you will be able to:
Participate in over 500 dive topic forums and browse from over 3,000,000 posts.
Communicate privately with other divers from around the world.
Post your own photos or view from 80,000 user submitted images.
Gain access to our free classifieds marketplace to buy, sell and trade gear, travel and services.
Use the calendar to organize your events and enroll in other members' events.
All this and much more is available to you absolutely free when you register for an account, so sign up today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact the ScubaBoard Support Team.
Now I'm no video expert, though I do my fair share of working with HD, SD, and CrapD files. But people, PLEASE do yourself a favor. If your camera has Auto White Balance, turn it OFF. And if you can't turn it off, Ebay your camera!
We all know that trying to white balance your camera to work underwater is something of a crap shoot. As you swim up and down in the water column, the "balance" of the light changes. The thing is, with a constant white balance, this can generally be corrected scene to scene in post. When auto white balance is enabled, the camera responds by changing it's idea of what is white and what is not. And usually it's basing white on the brightest image on the sensors. So you swim by a cream colored rock, that's now white. Your buddy flashes his dive light to get you to come look at something, now that's the new white, etc. Instead of correcting scene by scene, you're correcting 3-10 seconds at a time.
Now I'm no video expert, though I do my fair share of working with HD, SD, and CrapD files. But people, PLEASE do yourself a favor. If your camera has Auto White Balance, turn it OFF. And if you can't turn it off, Ebay your camera!
We all know that trying to white balance your camera to work underwater is something of a crap shoot. As you swim up and down in the water column, the "balance" of the light changes. The thing is, with a constant white balance, this can generally be corrected scene to scene in post. When auto white balance is enabled, the camera responds by changing it's idea of what is white and what is not. And usually it's basing white on the brightest image on the sensors. So you swim by a cream colored rock, that's now white. Your buddy flashes his dive light to get you to come look at something, now that's the new white, etc. Instead of correcting scene by scene, you're correcting 3-10 seconds at a time.
Turn it off!
What is the alternative if it is turned off? I have a Sony HDRHC7. It has auto white, or outdooor white, or indoor white, or manual white balance for choices. The housing has no white balance control (Amphibico EVO Dive Buddy). What would you recommend in this situation given that Ebay is not a choice I'll make. It comes back to me that auto white balance is the only choice.
What is the alternative if it is turned off? I have a Sony HDRHC7. It has auto white, or outdooor white, or indoor white, or manual white balance for choices. The housing has no white balance control (Amphibico EVO Dive Buddy). What would you recommend in this situation given that Ebay is not a choice I'll make. It comes back to me that auto white balance is the only choice.
Set it to daylight (outdoor) does a fairly good job, then correct in post
I mean set the manual white balance against a blue card above water which should shift the camera red/yellow (warm). Or magenta to move away from green. White balancing underwater is of course ideal, but not available to everyone. I can't white balance with my Ikelite housing.
Filters are great, assuming you have adequate light. Usually, underwater, most people don't have nearly enough light. Changing the white balance doesn't reduce light gathering underwater.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackrock
Do you mean set the manual white balance against a blue card above water or take the card with you and set it after submerging?
When you have a chance set it to daylight/outdoor, does alot better and you can correct in post (though MWB if you want to deal with it during the dive works well.) AWB, bleeech
This member has said "Thank you." to BubbleBlower07 for this useful post:
I wonder if daylight WB will get rid of the hideous green backgrounds I get, rendering much of the footage unusable. Never had that problem with any of my CCD camcorders, only the CMOS-based HC-7. I'd consider selling that camcorder for a song (as long as it was an Oscar winner or hit platinum).
I wonder if daylight WB will get rid of the hideous green backgrounds I get, rendering much of the footage unusable. Never had that problem with any of my CCD camcorders, only the CMOS-based HC-7. I'd consider selling that camcorder for a song (as long as it was an Oscar winner or hit platinum).
Too funny. Yeah there have been some complaints on the green effect. Definately give the Outdoor setting a go if you can though (or MWB if you can do that.). Seemed to help some and it also helps with some of those radical changes in color you may have seen with the AWB, particularly if the light changes (clouds in and out), makes it smoother and not as jarring. But there have been some mentioning the green thing not sure if it is HDV though as much as perhaps HC-7 issue...would not throw the baby out with the bathwater quite yet if you get a chance to test that and MWB. In fact something you can try which is interesting, do an indoor light shot against some white/gray paper with AWB then use manual WB against it. Amazing the difference. (And daylight compared to AWB outside will probably give you the same dramatic results)