compressor on a boat, converting to water cooled

[manni-yunk]

How hard is it to convert a compressor to be water cooled for a bilge install?

 

[Bob DBF]

You would need a water jacket on the compressor. Not that I get around much, but all the compressors I've seen are air cooled so I'd work on air flow in the compressor space.



Bob

 

[PeterNBiddle]

Most of the compressors I've seen use lots of extra stainless steel tubing in- and down-stream from the pistons to air-cool the compressed air. I think you could plumb the system to move those components to a submerged setup.

 

[NAM001]

You may be able to find a water cooled moisture seperator. With the compressor inside and in a bilge I think the, improving air flow route previously mentioned, would be thing to do no matter what else you do.

 

[Namreg 58]

How hard is it to convert a compressor to be water cooled for a bilge install?

Why don't you go back to April last year on the same topic to refresh your memory.
The outcome will still be the same..........suggest you invest in a good pair of ear muffs as a cheaper option or a larger muffler on your gas motor.

 

[Wookie]

True water cooling includes new heads, etc. I've only seen the k-15 conversions done by Bob Olsen at Nitrox Technologies. A little over 100 grand, but boy are they nice. MAKO industrial compressors (anything over 25 CFM) are water cooled, as are the bigger Bauers. I've seen a boat route the air coolers through the bilge very effectively, but my compressors run non stop during the day, and I keep my bilge level at a minimum, so I'd be somewhat concerned that the bilge water would get very hot very quickly and I'd lose that ability to cool. A third choice is to put in a small marine chill water unit and use a air cooler you can make yourself by coiling tubing of the correct diameter and stuffing it in a pvc pipe with water flowing through it. Be careful to always have your air pressure higher than your water pressure, so any leaks don't go into the air side.

 

[manni-yunk]

Why don't you go back to April last year on the same topic to refresh your memory.
The outcome will still be the same..........suggest you invest in a good pair of ear muffs as a cheaper option or a larger muffler on your gas motor.

Way to assume you know what your talking about....because of an older post????

This....has nothing to do ......with that.

I am taking a boat to engine and hull survey this week and she has a compressor installed in the bilge and running off of a hydraulic pump. Noise is not the problem. I don't like the way the bilge compartment must be opened to run the compressor as it creates a hazard for people to trip into in rough seas. I also don't like the way the snorkel is routed. I love the compressor, but plan on significant changes.

---------- Post added April 20th, 2014 at 08:46 AM ----------

True water cooling includes new heads, etc. I've only seen the k-15 conversions done by Bob Olsen at Nitrox Technologies. A little over 100 grand, but boy are they nice. MAKO industrial compressors (anything over 25 CFM) are water cooled, as are the bigger Bauers. I've seen a boat route the air coolers through the bilge very effectively, but my compressors run non stop during the day, and I keep my bilge level at a minimum, so I'd be somewhat concerned that the bilge water would get very hot very quickly and I'd lose that ability to cool. A third choice is to put in a small marine chill water unit and use a air cooler you can make yourself by coiling tubing of the correct diameter and stuffing it in a pvc pipe with water flowing through it. Be careful to always have your air pressure higher than your water pressure, so any leaks don't go into the air side.

Thank You.

The bilge area that sits the compressor (8.4CFM) is a nice large area (probably 6'L x 4' W x 5" D) - I was thinking about mounting a small AC unit to blow cool air into the bilge compartment while the compressor is running? Would that work?

---------- Post added April 20th, 2014 at 08:48 AM ----------

You may be able to find a water cooled moisture seperator. With the compressor inside and in a bilge I think the, improving air flow route previously mentioned, would be thing to do no matter what else you do.

Agreed and understood - there already is some air movement in and out of the area through blowers - but I don't think it is good enough.

 

[Wookie]

Thank You.

The bilge area that sits the compressor (8.4CFM) is a nice large area (probably 6'L x 4' W x 5" D) - I was thinking about mounting a small AC unit to blow cool air into the bilge compartment while the compressor is running? Would that work?

Although mine are in an equipment room and not stuffed in a bilge, that's an economy of scale thing. The "bilge" in that compartment is actually the fuel tanks. Yes, that's exactly what I do, I have an air conditioner vent that blows into that compartment to keep the air cool and dry. In the heat of the summer, the WBGT of that space is between 95 and 100 degrees F. Although I have had to double the periodicity of my preventive maintenance (rings, valves, and moisture separator elements) and halve the live of my filters, it is worth it to me to not add the complexity of water cooling. Besides, I make OCA with stock air compressors every test periodicity without using a hyperfilter. Remember, for any snorkel, you must double the area of the snorkel immediately and every 10 feet thereafter to keep the compressor well fed. My 1" inlet to my MAKO's have a 14 foot snorkel and it's a 2" pipe feeding it. With the air compressor running you can really feel the suck at the snorkel suction. Small insects often get sucked in. Don't take the inlet filter off the machine....

So I've gone back to read both of your posts. Are you trying to keep the compressor cool (important) or cool the compressed air (important, but not as much as keeping the compressor cool)? Each present their own engineering challenges. The benefit of keeping the compressor cool is longevity of the compressor, as well as not breaking down the oil into not easily breathable components. The only real benefit of cooling the compressed air is filter life and air quality.

 

[manni-yunk]

So I've gone back to read both of your posts. Are you trying to keep the compressor cool (important) or cool the compressed air (important, but not as much as keeping the compressor cool)? Each present their own engineering challenges. The benefit of keeping the compressor cool is longevity of the compressor, as well as not breaking down the oil into not easily breathable components. The only real benefit of cooling the compressed air is filter life and air quality.

Im just trying to keep the compressor cool. Im not as worried about filter life. I will do the same thing I do on the Compressor in my garage - where the filter stacks are doubled up, AND, replaced twice as often as I normally should. I figure its cheap insurance and the filters don't cost that much.

 

[Wookie]

Im just trying to keep the compressor cool. Im not as worried about filter life. I will do the same thing I do on the Compressor in my garage - where the filter stacks are doubled up, AND, replaced twice as often as I normally should. I figure its cheap insurance. Wi

OK, so if you blow the cool air in with a portable A/C, how will you make sure you get it to the right place? Can you rig a duct strong enough to withstand the rigors of the ocean, yet portable enough to get out of the way easily when you need it to do maintenance? Remember, boat. You'll do maintenance twice as often as you do with the garage compressor. You have to duct your cool air to the back of the compressor, if it's like any compressor I've ever seen. The fan blows front to back.