Compressor Air Testing - cost? Who to use?

[maniago]

So with the rebuild on my Rix SA-6 done, I want to run a sample out to a tester before I start filling my tanks in earnest.

What's the general consensus on who to use for small compressors? I don't really want to pay Trace Analytic $350 as if I were an LDS operation, and I can't seem to get a cost for TRI. I just want to do a one time test, and I'm shooting for O2 compatible air so I can mix as necessary.

Any help?

 

[KD8NPB]

What filters are you running?

TRI is about $160 for a one time test if I remember correctly.

Cheapest I've ever found was about $65, but you have to buy a ~$300 kit for it, and you do all of the sampling yourself off your air supply, then you send them the swabs/filter pads from the kit that you sampled with.

 

[maniago]

What filters are you running?

TRI is about $160 for a one time test if I remember correctly.

Cheapest I've ever found was about $65, but you have to buy a ~$300 kit for it, and you do all of the sampling yourself off your air supply, then you send them the swabs/filter pads from the kit that you sampled with.

The RIX doesn't run any filters, save for coalescers, as its oil-less, though a paper inlet filter "can" be used. Check my thread on the rebuild for pics if youre curious http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/co...s/471833-rix-sa-6-rebuild-winter-project.html

I think the Trace A setup is a buy the $300kit and $50 for the first sample, $45 for the next 3 etc. What a PITA.

 

[KD8NPB]

The RIX doesn't run any filters, save for coalescers, as its oil-less, though a paper inlet filter "can" be used. Check my thread on the rebuild for pics if youre curious http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/co...s/471833-rix-sa-6-rebuild-winter-project.html

I think the Trace A setup is a buy the $300kit and $50 for the first sample, $45 for the next 3 etc. What a PITA.

Mechanical separation alone will not remove all of the water and contaminants in the air. Oilless just means you won't have air that is contaminated by a compressor flash or by ring blowby.

A small tower with MS13X + Hopcalite + Activated Carbon would be ideal.

 

[maniago]

Mechanical separation alone will not remove all of the water and contaminants in the air. Oilless just means you won't have air that is contaminated by a compressor flash or by ring blowby.

A small tower with MS13X + Hopcalite + Activated Carbon would be ideal.

Yeah, you're not really understanding how this compressor works (13x maybe, we'll see; but I don't need the Hop (no VOCs, no CO) and no need for the C12 freshener either). There's a reason why its 3x more expensive than an oil-sump compressor of the same size.

The question is about air sampling companies and costs.

 

[KD8NPB]

Yeah, you're not really understanding how this compressor works (13x maybe, we'll see; but I don't need the Hop (no VOCs, no CO) and no need for the C12 freshener either). There's a reason why its 3x more expensive than an oil-sump compressor of the same size.

The question is about air sampling companies and costs.

If you fail the test, you don't get your money back.

Just make sure you don't run the compressor during the summer, when there are internal combustion engines nearby, or in areas where off-flavors, chemical vapors, or other contaminants could contaminate the airstream.

Mechanical seperators won't remove triethyldeath from your air. Activated carbon will.

 

[maniago]

If you fail the test, you don't get your money back.

Just make sure you don't run the compressor during the summer, when there are internal combustion engines nearby, or in areas where off-flavors, chemical vapors, or other contaminants could contaminate the airstream.

Mechanical seperators won't remove triethyldeath from your air. Activated carbon will.

Ok, I get your point, via extrapolation, since I can breath triethyldeath in the garage without too much problem, but at 100SFW the partial pressures will get me. Thanks

 

[rddvet]

I don't know Rix compressors, but I too thought that for OCA you needed secondary filtration. But that's not what the thread is about, and I don't plan on getting a rix, so my knowledge is limited.

I do my air checks through Lawrence Factor. They've always been great. I think my Grade E single test is like $120. Don't quote me on that, but it's definitely not over $200 for a fact. I've gotten quick turn around an great service. If you do have any issues with your air you just call Mike Casey ( I think that's his last name) who's the guru of air quality there. He can help you. He's given me tons of free advice. Of course his opinion is biased to LF's product line, but other than price I don't think too many people say anything bad about their products. Give them a try, I've been very happy.

 

[maniago]

I do my air checks through Lawrence Factor.

Ah, good. This is the kind of info I'm looking for as I've not heard of these guys and they didn't come up on my google search. Thanks.

Any one else got a tester I can look into?

There's not other thread on SB that has a recent discussion on this, so collecting names here might be helpful to someone in the future as well.

 

[Wookie]

Trace, TRI, Lawrence Factor. That about covers your choices. Yes,buying the kit is a PITA. Sell it on EBay when you dump your compressor, or find someone locally that has one.