Help Identifying Bauer Compressor

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opie712

Contributor
Messages
543
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33
Location
Cookeville, TN
# of dives
200 - 499
I just picked this up for a steal ($300.00 usd) I dont really know much about it other than it runs and builds air I think it could be either a mariner or capitanio not really for sure if someone could help me out i would appreciate it and any info would help like the cfm rate max psi filter number for replacement and which oil to use if i need to know anything else just let me know thanks DSC_4472.jpgDSC_4473.jpgDSC_4474.jpgDSC_4475.jpgDSC_4476.jpgDSC_4477.jpgDSC_4478.jpgDSC_4479.jpg
 
IF the motor is 5 HP it is probably a 6-7 CFM. IF the motor is 7.5 HP it is probably a 8-9 CFM compressor. Here is the link for a manual
http://www.scubaengineer.com/pictures/compressors/bauer/utilus_capitano_mariner_manual.pdf
Jim Shelden


I just picked this up for a steal ($300.00 usd) I dont really know much about it other than it runs and builds air I think it could be either a mariner or capitanio not really for sure if someone could help me out i would appreciate it and any info would help like the cfm rate max psi filter number for replacement and which oil to use if i need to know anything else just let me know thanksView attachment 189503View attachment 189504View attachment 189505View attachment 189506View attachment 189507View attachment 189508View attachment 189509View attachment 189510
 
It is a 7.5 HP motor ccan you tell me by looking what filters it will use or will it tell on the filter cartridge and do you have a recommend on oil
 
It's a Mariner I and Jim's link covers the Mariner II, However if you go to the scubaengineer bauer compressor home page and scroll down past all the illustrations there is a 3mb pdf titled "utilus capitano mariner workshop manual" which refers to your pump.

On your first picture, is that the ID plate between the electric motor and the water separator? if so that will give you the working pressure of the pump or you can find it stamped on the top of the PO filter (probably 330bar). There is a sticker on the right top side of the PO filter that gives you a filter number to use if you choose to go with Bauer products . For a cheaper alternative you can use the Lawrence Factor X22629 or X22249 triplex cartridges.

The oil you use depends on what's in it currently and how much work you want to do. To determine whether you have mineral or synthetic oil, get an oil sample via the dip stick and hold it under a U/V light, if it flouresces, it's synthetic oil and you can continue using synthetic. If it's mineral oil and you wish to go synthetic it gets a bit more involved..........cross that bridge if you get to it.

BTW receiving stolen goods is a crime. :no:
 
Ok thanks for your help no that blue tag just says pretty much this is life support know what your doing as far as oil thanks for the tip and the Compressor only has 16 original hours if that makes a difference but I was looking at going with the LF filters does brand of oil matter or is they just a syn or mineral I have also seen nitrox oil can you explain the difference and one last question where is the cheapest way or place for an air test when I get it ready to go



O lol btw it's not stolen that I think got it off a older gentleman that got big into diving and the short quit he was asking 5000 for the Compressor and bank setup he had it for sale for quite sometime as not many people dive in our area so he had no takers I had a spare welder that I picked up at a TVA sale for 300 bucks ask if he would be interested in a trade he jumped on the idea and so did I so I feel like I got a real deal and he was happy with his new welder
 
The oil you use depends on what's in it currently and how much work you want to do. To determine whether you have mineral or synthetic oil, get an oil sample via the dip stick and hold it under a U/V light, if it fluoresces, it's synthetic oil and you can continue using synthetic. If it's mineral oil and you wish to go synthetic it gets a bit more involved..........cross that bridge if you get to it.

You've got this reversed.

If the oil fluoresces green under a UV light it is a mineral oil and if not it is synthetic.

As Namreg states it is a bit of work to switch from mineral to synthetic and if synthetic make sure you continue to use synthetic. The Bauer manual will explain how to do the switch from mineral to synthetic.

The Bauer oil of choice if mineral is the Shell Corena P150 which has some new name like the Corena S2 P150 and if synthetic the Ultrachem Chemlube 800. Both are available from Bauer Norfolk or Miami or you can order it online from August Industries.
https://www.augustindustries.com/

The filter is known as a P0 in the USA or P21 in Europe but they are one and the same. Remember it is a very small filter and only good for 3200 cu. feet of air processing at 58 F compressor room ambient temperature. During the summer when it is 80 F or above you'll have to apply processing capacity correction factors which will cut the processing capacity by half or more. See the manual below for the temperature correction factors.
 

Attachments

  • Bauer_p21_Filter PDS.pdf
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Thanks for your guys help much appreciated is the standard service routine 25 hrs or as needed
 
Not sure what you mean by standard service but if running a synthetic oil and pumping air I'd change the oil out at 1000 hours or once a year. Bauer will tell you 2000 hours or two years but that is excessive in my opinion.

If pumping nitrox you definitely want to be running a synthetic only and I'd drop your oil change interval to 250 hours.

Depending on the output of your compressor and your ambient temperature you'll likely have to change out that very tiny filter every 10 to 12 hours of run time.
 
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I read somewhere that they changed their oil and filters small one like what I have every 25 hours of run time or every 6 months



I was also looking at L F filters and the ones listed above says grade d air so how do I get grade e or O C A by adding a filter tower
 
My suggestion would be to use the PO filter as a moisture trap only and repack it completely with linde 13X. Then add a 16 or 30 inch filter tower after the PO to give you clean dry grade E air. If you PM me I'll give you a price for both sizes of filter, then you can choose. With the motor (7.5 HP), I'd go with the 30 inch tower because of the high air flow -- 8-9 CFM.
Jim Shelden
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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