Goodbye Cozumel; Lets Try It Again Next Year

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DandyDon

Colonoscopy Advocate
ScubaBoard Supporter
Messages
53,645
Reaction score
7,825
Location
One kilometer high on the Texas Central Plains
# of dives
500 - 999
I’d read the good and bad reports from the board, but figured it had to be a good for a weekend dive-trip getaway. It was good - far from great as one might expect with bad viz and sand blasted reefs, but good.

Getting there: Largely uneventful - altho several “Watch for ice” signs up on the Interstate seemed ominous as I drove thru the wee hours darkness to the Lubbock airport on a day forecast to hit 90 degrees? Who knows? The day before, the first bank I visited was out of Traveler’s checks and the A&W was out of root-beer. Things happen. I boarded the little plane at 5am, woke up in Houston, took a break in the club room, boarded another plane at 8.30, and woke up in Coz in time for lunch. I’ve always been on the last of three planes to arrive about the same time there, but this time we were the first one in. A nice experience without an immigration line.

The Caribe Blu Hotel: It was nice to see that it’s been pretty much restored to its former no-frills comfort - water front property close to town, spacious rooms, all the basics I desire plus a few extras I can take or leave - all at $80 a night, $65 a night if you dive with their Blue Angel operation, no taxes if the bill is paid in Travelers Checks. The large coconut trees lost in the storm have been replaced with small, young ones, and all in all for having endured the strongest storm of last year’s season - looked pretty good. I’ll certainly plan to be back, unless I try their sister property downtown which some divers on my boat really bragged about.

It was a bit noisy, but not nearly as bad as I’d read on recent reports. Not much going on with the next door construction over the weekend, but a concrete building right on the main road is going to carry a hum - except my clunky air conditioner usually drowned that out. Ear plugs may be a nice idea for some.

Around town and along the channel-side shore that I saw, there is a lot of very obvious signs of recent and severe destruction. The locals have done an impressive comeback, tho - with a lot more rebuilt than I would have expected, in spite of possible resource and political challenges one might expect there. It’s common to see construction workers wearing flip-flops, and I have to wonder of the injury rate, but they are getting things back up well. Hey, it’s that or the jungle will retake it, but one way or another - the war zone images are going away fast. I don’t know the reasons of why some are being rebuilt before others, but for one - it’s an island, can’t do them all at once.

Enjoying Renown Coz Dining: I think it may even better than before? Or at least I heard this about a few places - perhaps trying to lure the customers back with the lingering hurricane syndrome that often follows long after a storm has passed. It is grand, anyway.

Lunches were fun and tasty at the little open air café above the dive shop - whether I was in a hurry for a siesta or a quick-turn to more dives in the afternoon. It’s also good for breakfasts, but not being a morning person - I really like to pick up speed slowly for an hour or two in the room before heading down to meet the boat, so I took a 12 cup coffee maker, supplies, and 2 large packages of sweet rolls in my luggage. Sounds excessive perhaps, but didn’t weigh much, and packed inside cardboard boxes within my bags - it all made it fine. A cheap loss even if they hadn‘t.

Parrilla Mission on 30th Ave now has a new name to distinguish it from others with similar names and it was again an economical and enjoyable experience, but - I may have a new favorite in Mexican dining after La Choza‘s shrimp stuffed chile pepper, their yellow chili sauce, and their Tortilla soup. Funny thing about La Choza - they do take credit cards which many do not, but do not accept Travelers checks?!

I walked down to Villa Blanco one evening for a hamburger, but that café had closed for the evening. Tried their upscale restaurant in the courtyard, and the fish was nice. Perhaps the establishment is aimed at the bigger spenders, which seemed odd located at Hog town - first time in a long while for a waiter to lay the napkin in my lap. Met some ScubaBoard.com friends for dinner my last night at the French Quarter and another fine dining experience. Thought we had one more joining us from the invitation thread I posted when Mike came to the table shaking hands, but nope - he’s the owner who moved down from New Orleans. I was not able to find their phone number in the book, no was the hotel desk, but if you want reservations: 872-6321.

You still have to watch those cabbies! I’d always ask the hotel clerk what the fair should be before I left and usually ask the driver as well before getting in, but just didn’t bother for a short trip to the square. He his me up for $5, while parked in full view of a traffic cop! I called him a liar, handed him $3 in correct change - always a good idea to have handy, and quietly walked away. Jeeze, and they have such a good union, kick-backs from the cafes, etc.

The cruise barges are certainly back, one day 7 at anchor with ferries shuttling tourists ashore since the piers are still in ruin. I shudder to think how much more damage they’ll do with their big hooks, but Coz is not going to turn them away.

Diving With Blue Angel: This is really a good, no-frills Op at reasonable prices, several 8-diver boats with overhead shades, plenty of room, helpful DMs & Skippers, good safety protocols - everything I like to have in a Op - at $53 for a 2 tank trip, cheaper with a discounted hotel package. I dived 7 different reefs in 3 days plus a quick trip across to PDC for a high speed drift with a herd of big turtles, one being pestered by the largest remora I’ve ever seen - had to be a good 5 feet long.

I don’t know what the connection may be, but while the reefs all seem to be imbedded with white sand, and the water has a milky white haze, there does seem to be more other sea life than before. And such a wide variety, like more Ocean triggers than I’ve seen in 200+ dives before, turtles, several different types of rays - including the ever popular eagle, a couple divers got checked out by dolphins on a late afternoon dive while a French fellow and I got buzzed by a Marlin as we drifted slowly up from our safety stop, and I didn’t know that Coz had pipefish until I found one hiding with some twigs. The professional video photographer on that dive noticed me shooting into a small trash pile, came over, and we both got shots of the little pouched fish.

If you’re a fumbling amateur shooter like me, read up on adjusting White Balance until you understand it well, as you’ll be shooting thru white hazy water into bright white sand everywhere. I’d thought I’d tried everything, but missed that obvious adjustment, thinking of it only after my dives were over.

And watch for those tricky down currents. The one I got caught in wasn’t bad, but it spooked me as I’d be swimming into an up current along the 65 ft deep edge of a wall when suddenly I noticed I was at 100 ft - my pony bottle sitting on the boat as I usually don’t bother with it for a dive planned above 70 ft. I started bothering again.

And wear long suits or skins, as I saw what those thimble jellies can do to uncovered knees on one lady who got hit the day before I arrived. Lots of ugly welts.
 
Thanks for this Don. You sure can't beat Blue Angel's prices for value etc. Wondered about your experience with the cabs however. I have only ever had one bad experience with a Coz cab and that was some time ago (we hit construction which cab driver didn't want to wait to get through and asked to drop us off about 15 blocks early - not insignificant when carrying a full load of wet dive gear - so we paid less than what would have been the fare to our original destination). Guess it comes with experience and knowing what the price SHOULD be.

But generally speaking, I've found that by making it clear at the outset that I am a multi-time visitor to the island (usually be making pleasantries in Spanish), we are great buddies by the time I get out and there is no debate on what is owed.
 
Good, balanced report Don with some new info--thanks!

And yes, while not all the cabbies are con artists, some of them will still try to rip you off if they think you're a cruise ship person or a first-timer. Your best bet is to do what Don
did--ask the person at your hotel's front desk what the fare should be to wherever you're going, they'll give you an estimate, then ask the cab driver when they pull up BEFORE
you get in the car. If they quote you a higher price, demand to see the rate sheet. They legally have to show it to you so if you let them know that you're aware of this fact, they'll
give in. They just try to get what they can, and know their next customer is right down the road, so they don't want to waste time arguing with you when they could be on their
way to pick up another fare.

LIke 3M said, if you make it clear that you've been to the island before and ask them about the local news, in other words, show an interest, their response is always different.
You are now a friend and will often learn some very interesting stuff and gain a new insight into the island. :)
 
cxg31s:
Good, balanced report Don with some new info--thanks!

And yes, while not all the cabbies are con artists, some of them will still try to rip you off if they think you're a cruise ship person or a first-timer. Your best bet is to do what Don
did--ask the person at your hotel's front desk what the fare should be to wherever you're going, they'll give you an estimate, then ask the cab driver when they pull up BEFORE
you get in the car. If they quote you a higher price, demand to see the rate sheet. They legally have to show it to you so if you let them know that you're aware of this fact, they'll
give in. They just try to get what they can, and know their next customer is right down the road, so they don't want to waste time arguing with you when they could be on their
way to pick up another fare.

LIke 3M said, if you make it clear that you've been to the island before and ask them about the local news, in other words, show an interest, their response is always different.
You are now a friend and will often learn some very interesting stuff and gain a new insight into the island. :)
An easier way is to know what the fare should be, have the exact amount, give it to them when you get where you are going, say "gracias", and get out. That's harder when you are going to a restaurant that's off the beaten track, but the taxi fare to the plaza or Chedraui from your hotel should always be the same.
 
ggunn:
An easier way is to know what the fare should be, have the exact amount, give it to them when you get where you are going, say "gracias", and get out. That's harder when you are going to a restaurant that's off the beaten track, but the taxi fare to the plaza or Chedraui from your hotel should always be the same.

Agreed--that's what I do since I go so much and know what most of the fares are. Just hand them the money and get out--not much they can do at that point and they realize you know how the system works.

My advice above was intended for Coz newbies who might not be aware that they can get ripped off. I wish I had known all this on my first trip!
 
cxg31s:
Agreed--that's what I do since I go so much and know what most of the fares are. Just hand them the money and get out--not much they can do at that point and they realize you know how the system works.

My advice above was intended for Coz newbies who might not be aware that they can get ripped off. I wish I had known all this on my first trip!

And pay in pesos. Last year, the fare from my hotel to the plaza was 35 pesos or $4 US. $4 US = 44 pesos at 11:1.

Of course the real game is to have the exact fare, since the cab drivers nearly always will tell you that they don't have change in hopes that you'll just let them keep the diff.
 
ggunn:
And pay in pesos. Last year, the fare from my hotel to the plaza was 35 pesos or $4 US. $4 US = 44 pesos at 11:1.
That works okay for the frequent Coz visitor, but I try to get rid of Pesos as fast as I get them. Don't want to save them for a year, and my grandson has plenty.

Besides, 10:1 if so much easier to figure. Not often that the 10% will be enough to worry about.

EXCEPT!! I might make an exception for the Cabbies. With their strong union, no pickups at airport rule, etc - I do not want to give them one Peso more than needed.
Of course the real game is to have the exact fare, since the cab drivers nearly always will tell you that they don't have change in hopes that you'll just let them keep the diff.
Yep, in Pesos no less. I do try to carry lots of $1 & $2 bills, the latter available at many banks on request. :wink:
 
Don,
Glad to hear you had a nice time. Our "eco wrecking barge" arrived on Friday and I was resigned to the fact that I would not be able to dive because of the delays with the tenders, I planed on the pain of shopping with the wife. But!! Luck had it that we were in fact able to get space with Sand Dollar Divers at the last minute. We had all our gear as we dove in Jamaica and Grand Cayman. So off we went my 18yo daughter, my 15 yo son and I to the Santa Rosa wall. I was happy with the the boat and the crew. We did a drift dive along the wall and our vis was great! Maybe not quite as good as Grand Cayman but still great. The wall was very nice with lots of fish, a very very large green morray and several swim throughs. I did see a good bit of white sand on the reef and wall but for me, it did not take away from the dive. While on the safety stop we got up close and personal with a spotted eagle ray. He just circled and circled. Made for a nice safety stop.

2nd dive was back down closer to the ships. They called it Paradise reef. (Seems like everywhere I go, they have a Paradise reef) Anyway, we drifted along this shallower reef with tons of beautiful fish. We visited a really large grouper and what are those wierd fish that walk along the bottom called? Another fantastic dive.

It was sad to see the damage to the beach and the buildings. But, living in Charleston and having gone through Hugo, they will come back better off. I recommend Cozumel to anyone. Yes there is damage but thats just nature doing its thing.

By the way, you will be happy to know that the "eco wrecking barge" we were on used GPS dynamic positioning to stay put and never laid its anchor. I was happy to see that.

Sorry I missed the dinner. I bet it was nice.
 
Thanks for the report. Quick question: This is the second time I've read about taxis not able to pick up at the airport. How does one get from the airport to a downtown hotel? I've been in Cozumel 8 times, but always as a Pod person.
 
nyprrthd:
Thanks for the report. Quick question: This is the second time I've read about taxis not able to pick up at the airport. How does one get from the airport to a downtown hotel? I've been in Cozumel 8 times, but always as a Pod person.


There are big SUV shuttles which are run by the taxi union that will take you to your hotel. Alternatively, you can walk out to the front gate of the airport and catch a cab; it's about 100 yards. I always use the shuttle, but some prefer to save a couple of bucks doing it the other way. For a downtown hotel, the shuttle is something on the order of $5 per person.
 

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