A First Timers View of Cozumel- The Good and the Bad

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herman

Contributor
Scuba Instructor
Divemaster
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Location
Raleigh,North Carolina
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After many years of diving I finally got to Cozumel. Being a first timer and having read all the glowing reports over the years, I may of set my expectations too high. While we enjoyed our trip, there are things about Cozumel that, at least in my opinion, could be changed to vastly improve my impression of it. My comparisons are based on quite a few trips to the Florida Keys and east coast, the Bahamas and Bonaire.

Our accommodations were at EL Cid/La Ciaba. The rooms were nice and the grounds well kept. The king size bed was great, the AC worked and the huge shower was hot The resort restaurant is OK, nothing to write home about. The food was about average for a resort. My only complaint was with the restaurant staff, the service was poor and slow. They seemed really irritated we wanted them to open on time- 7am. I hate to eat and run but with a 7:30 pickup we needed the restaurant open on time. Several of our group were actually thrown out of the restaurant because they were sitting at one of the tables a few minutes before 7, this is an open air restaurant, more on fun at the restaurant later. All in all, the El Cid is a nice place to stay but some improvements at the restaurant need to be made.
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We dove with Dive with Martin who picked up at the El Cid dock every morning at 7:30. Martin runs a medium size operation with reasonably fast boats. We typically had 8 to 10 divers on our boat. Our group was large enough that we had 2 boats pretty much to our selves and dove the sites we wanted. The boat captains and DM’s were helpful and knowledgably. If I return to Cozumel, I would not hesitate to use Martin again. We dove 2 tanks each morning with each dive lasting around 45 minutes with a 60 minute SI on the beach. Depths ranged anywhere from 100ft to around 50 with the end of the dive on a shallow part of the reef. The dives were pretty much a follow the leader dive with everyone hanging together in a loose group and drifting along in a gentle to medium current. The reefs were healthy with lots of fish life and turtles on most every dive. Being an UW photographer, the constant current and need to keep with my group forced me to change my normal style of diving from a slow unhurried pace to a more run and gun approach. I still got some good photos. Overall, I enjoyed the dives and would love to spend more time exploring the reefs in a much more leisurely manner. The diving makes returning to Coz worthwhile. Some of my pictures are below

Topside Cozumel was somewhat disappointing to me. I am not accustomed to nor do I appreciate constant harassment by street vendors. It seemed we could not walk more than 50 ft without being pounced upon by some vendor trying to get me to come into their store. I found the restaurants for the most part, to be average in quality and value but poor in customer service. Prices were not expensive but were no bargain either. I can get much better food and service in any Mexican restaurant here in Raleigh than at any place I ate in Cozumel. In general, the wait staffs were less attentive than I would expect. I am not typically a picky person and will tolerate quite a bit but I do have my expectations as a customer. I had one particularly bad experience at the resort restaurant. Long story short, I got almost no service one morning at breakfast, had to ask and wait for what I did get and then was accosted 3 times for not leaving a tip. The waiter had the nerve to actually forge a tip onto my room bill after I left the restaurant. Based on the reaction of the front desk, it’s not an uncommon occurrence. The breakfast was a serve yourself buffet so all I wanted was to have my coffee cup filled, I don’t think that’s too much to ask of a waiter. I’m sorry but no coffee early in the morning means no tip. It appears to me that the constant influx of huge crowds off the cruise ships has created an atmosphere of “give me your money and get out”. On the other hand, two restaurants did stand out, Casa Mission and a small pizza place I can’t remember the name of. Casa Mission is a very pretty restaurant set in a lush garden. Their food was good, a little more expensive than some of the other places we ate but the atmosphere and more importantly the service was well worth the slightly more expensive menu. The other restaurant was a small pizza place several blocks off the main street, I wish I could remember it’s name.. Good pizza, good service and a good value. If I return to Cozumel, they will be the only 2 restaurants on my “return to” list. To be fair, this was my first time to Coz and I did not really have a clue as to where to eat and where not to. I suspect that there are some much better restaurants off the beaten path and I need to do some exploring to find them.

Overall, I enjoyed my trip to Cozumel. We had a fun group of divers, a good dive operator and the reefs are beautiful. In addition to the good diving, we had the opportunity to meet several SB members while on island. My wife and I had the pleasure of sharing a meal with James Goddard, his wife and child. We also met Sharky one morning over breakfast. Like always, wonderful SB people.
If I can find cheap air and a reasonable place to stay I would return and put up with the vendors and wait staff, the diving makes it worth it. Otherwise, I will try some other places before returning. I realize this is not the normal glowing Coz report but I felt like I needed to call it like I saw it.
 
Nice pics Herman.....Lynn and I have made a change in our plans and we are going to Barbados instead of T&C.
 
herman:
And a few more photos
Terrific pics. I really like the sea horse!! The color and composition are very interesting. Almost looks like he's hiding backstage behind the curtain and peeking at the audience. Luv it.
 
My only reply to this is that Cozumel is what it is, and I love it. I have been there many times, and I know what to expect.

The street vendors don't bother me; sometimes if I'm in the mood sometimes I exchange some lighthearted banter with them ("Do I look like a tourist to you?" Of course I do.), other times I just say "no, gracias" and go on my way.

We're just going to have to disagree on the restaurants, too. Casa Mission is definitely not on my short list; I think the food there is mediocre to average and way overpriced. I've never eaten in the El Cid restaurant, but the service in the places I eat has always been just fine. As to the coffee cup incident, did you ask for more coffee and were refused, or did you just sit there with an empty cup and expect them to fill it without your asking?

I agree that the prices in a lot of the eateries are not exactly bargains; I noted in my trip report that the food prices are generally up quite a bit from last year.

At any rate, I have no quarrel with folks that go to Cozumel and don't wish to return; it will be just that little bit less crowded there when I go. ;^)
 
I'll agree with Gordon, Coz is what it is. I didn't like the constant barking of the vendors either, but it was the same in Playa, Tulum and just about everywhere there was a shop. Competition is stiff and more than a few shops offer the same stuff. Back in the market place I found the vendors much less agressive as this is more a locals area. Prices for food was reasonable, depending. A bit of pre trip research went a long way and I found the food overall to be a good value and I left with many more places I wanted to try and few that I wouldn't return to. Your pictures are great !
 
Yeah i agree with ggunn on this one.

With threads like This around, there are plenty of recommendations of good places to go right here on SB. One of the reasons our group never goes all inclusive is all the food choices. We never hit everywhere we want to go in a week. Herman, if you do go again, take a real hard look at this list and try some. I bet you will pleasantly surprised.

The street vendor thing has gotten worse over the years and if you can't ignore it or have fun with it, it can get to you. When we first started going to Coz, pre boat invasion, part of the fun was dickering with the street vendors. With the commercialization of the place, i have to admit, it isn't as much fun as it used to be.

Whatever, i still think Coz is one of the best bang for your buck dive destinations going with all things considered. JMO

Ps: great pics Herman!
 
Herman, it was nice to meet you also.

Sorry you didn't get the service you wanted at La Cieba, we have been long time cutomers of that resort and have never had any problems with them. Maybe we get "special" treatment because we are regulars, which isn't right, but it could be the case. I do recongnize however that Cozumel is on "island time" and service is going to be slower than it is here at home. I aslo having been to the Bahamas, I think that service in Coz is MUCH more faster than it is in the Bahamas, those folks are REALLY on island time!!!!

As far as the food, you do have to remember it is Mexico and you are not going to get the quality raw product that you can get in the US, having said that, I'm sure on your next trip you will be able to find some restaurants that will be on your "return list", we all have our favorites.

I'm glad you enjoyed the diving, from our discussion at breakfast you seemed a little disappointed in the sea life abundance. I noticed myself on this trip that there didn't seem to be as many fish on some reefs as we usually see, but being the ocean, it is constantly changing and depending on water temps, currents, food sources and a million other conditions the reef can change considerably from day to day.

I'm an underwater photographer also and get frustrated sometimes with not being able to take the time I'd like to. Even when I didn't do photography, I'm the sort of diver that likes to take it REAL slow and poke around the reef and see what I can find. I could spend the whole dive on just 2 or 3 coral heads in a no-current situation.

Just a few years ago there were no street vendor problems, street vendors to me are the guys with those little kiosks wanting to set you up with rental cars, snorkel trips, ect. Sure, some the shop workers would try and get you to come into their stores, just remember those people are very poor and are competing with 100's of other small stores, just smile and say "no gracias", like everyone else has said, have fun with it, it's part of going to Mexico to me and I kind of like it. The people of Mexico are lovely people and would love nothing more than to see you come back and enjoy their country. I belive increase of cruise ships has probably made the street vendor thing worse than it used to be.

Anyway I'm glad your trip overall was enjoyable and you will come back, even with the increased cruise ship population, additional traffic, which has increased considerably over the past couple of years, and all the minor topside distractions, Cozumel is still the #2 dive destination in the world, and that's what is really all about.
 
It's funny. When one sits down to write a trip report, it just seems emotionally more satisfying to dwell on the positive. Hell, you need to justify and/or rationalize all that money you just spent! They always seem so positive on Scubaboard. On Tripadvisor things are a bit more interesting, although things are so polarized over there, either gushingly positive or hopelessly negative. Reality is usually in-between, of course.

Nevertheless, as another recent Coz first timer, but experienced traveler, I'd have to say everything was actually a bit better than I expected.

Over the last decade or so I've gotten lazy and typically gone the AI route. Heck, if the Coz Palace had been open I very likely would have wound up there. But after a few mediocre experiences with AI's I decided that it was time for a back to basics trip.

Even with the outstanding resource that is the Scubaboard Hive Mind, especially the very active Cozumel forum, I had some trepidation. Our itinerary was more complex than I would have liked. But it turned out to be a very nice vacation.

My .02:

Transportation: way better than expected. Porters, ferries, buses and taxis were plentiful, frequent, quick and efficient. I'm sure there is the occasional taxi hell ride (a friend at the Moon Palace had one while I was there) but we didn't have any problems.

Lodging: we chose basic, and we got basic, and other than being on the fourth floor and not having a fridge it was great. It's hard to screw up basic short of the property being run down, and the Caribe Blu seems reasonably well maintained, although they could have picked up the trash a bit more often (and the guests should not have littered in the first place!). Great restaurant and shore diving. Given our avoidance of the few places like the Presidente, etc. this is one area where I'm CERTAIN we would have been disappointed if it weren't for Scubaboard.

Language and customs: not better or worse than expected, just a bit different. Again, we might have been disappointed if we had not researched this a bit, but probably not, except for the "must ask for the check" thing. In restaurants we understood that our requests would be acted upon efficiently but not anticipated at all, and that's pretty much the way it worked out. Once asked for service was far quicker than Carribean "island time".

Shopping: didn't care, didn't notice, didn't buy anything except a tank top from Christi. Chedraui was a nice resource. Determining which ATM to use prior to leaving was a key thing that comes with travel experience.

Dining: about what I expected, i.e. not bad overall with a couple of high points. Even so, MUCH better than AI. Again, an area that probably would have been far worse without the excellent list from Christi and published on Scubaboard. There is much opportunity to improve here, we barely made it through a quarter of the list.

Entertainment: diving and dining was it, although I did have an unholy urge to hit Senor Frog's. :wink:

Atmosphere: actually, damn good. Much better than a lot of Carribean islands. I felt safe walking the back streets. The standard of living, such as we saw it, did not give me a feeling of overwhelming sadness. Although we could see the cruise ship docks from Caribe Blu, their presence was at a sufficient distance that we didn't find them as intrusive as I thought they would be. Traffic was a bit overly exciting at times. The plaza was the place to be on Sunday (thanks again, Ron!).

No need to ever get near the plaza if you don't want to get the tourist hassle. There are plenty of other places to eat. We just acted like they were TV commercials, i.e. ignored them and it was fine. They can probably tell if you are cheap-assed divers right away :wink: but they still have to try once! BUT, Important Safety Note: don't go with a camera slung over your shoulder, especially an expensive one. We did one night because we wanted photos of the area and OMG, they quadrupled their efforts, even became a bit huffy some of them. That night I finally resorted to turning to any who tried twice and, with hands open and a smile, said, "Diving, not cruising!" That pretty much worked 99% of the time.

Diving: 2 beautiful, 4 underwhelming, or at least not up to the big 'net build up. Luck of the draw, maybe. There are still so many other places to go still, so next time we'll put the 4 we didn't like "off the list".

Overall, as vacations go, I'd give it a "7". Usually we try to hit any place that we like again and invariably with the "practice trip" under our belts there are far fewer logistical worries or flubs and the second time is usually a "9". We'll be back!

aa
 
Yes Mexico is what it is....growing up in Texas and traveling to the local border towns most of my life I guess the hawkers don't really bother me (my husbands hates them) I just ignore them and keep on going. It is fun to barter with some of them. My friend was going to buy one of the onyx chess sets that are everywhere and he was ready to pay the 45.00US quoted. I stepped in and got it for him for 25.00 probably could have gotten it cheaper but it was one of the big ones and he was happy with the price, but he did have to lug it around for the rest of the evening until we were ready to return to the hotel.

I have noticed it is worse when the cruise ships are in port....Hope you don't give up on Coz it is a great place to dive.
 
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