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This isn't a question about SLA vs. NiMh vs. Lith Ion. I am committed to SLA for this setup.
I recently came into a Tekna DV-3X scooter which needs new batteries. There seem to be a wide selection of 12V batteries 16AH to 20AH that fit the bill. I understand there are some liberties taken by manufacturers when it comes to numbers.
My question is which batteries do people use? What are the burn times they are getting? And which have the best long term reliability?
I have tried to locate info on this topic in the archives. If I have missed a thread, please let me know.
The Tekna doen't have the bouyancy of the Mako so there are a lot of "fixes" out there, a neoprene cover, PVC tubes on the front handle etc. Run time vs bouyancy is what it comes down to.
When it comes to a battery's capacity, heavier is usually better
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It took me years at sea to realize, it wasn't the ocean I liked, it was the coast.
The Tekna doen't have the bouyancy of the Mako so there are a lot of "fixes" out there, a neoprene cover, PVC tubes on the front handle etc. Run time vs bouyancy is what it comes down to.
When it comes to a battery's capacity, heavier is usually better
Thanks for the link. I don't know how I missed that in my search. I posted this question on the deco stop as well.
I have rebuilt three of these now and Iuse the cheap, sealed, lead acid, gell batteries. I got them on sale for 34 dollars each. They run strongly for over and hour. Of the three scooters I have rebuilt I have made varous mods. I like the slight negative bouyancy so you can park it on the bottom and not worry about it floating away.
I notice you have your tow straps attached to tabs that are not positioned across the center of the shroud. Does this help you balance while underway? Also, since the tabs would create somewhat of a lever action on their mounting points, have you experienced any issues with the mounting points in the plastic?
The plastic shroud is quite thick in that area, no, I have not had issues but you must realize that the force applied here underwater is not the same as picking it up on the surface by the tabs--two diffwerent things. I am not recommending it but I have not had problems either. I countersink the inside for a 1/4 inch screw and nylock on the outside---stainless steel of course. The tabs can be something like 1/8 aluminum 6000 series or stainless. Do not overtighten bolts etc into plastic--be warned.
The slightly off center positioning helps somewhat to eliminate the tendency when using the grip for it to point upward under power. They balance my hand grips if you follow. I still have not perfected that arrangement yet.
I had some original batteries and the ones I use are so called 18 amp/hour, the originals were 16 amp/hour. In terms of weight these are somewhat heavier maybe by a half a pound or less. They are identical in size. There is a 24 amp/hour I think but it would require some additional mods to make them work.
I bought these cheapo batteries just for testing but have proven so capable that I have not bothered to purchase anything more costly and probably no better.
The link I gave you I have purchased parts from and gotten advice and he repaired a corroded shaft on the red scooter.
Tekna scooters are somewhat fragile compared to modern PVC tube scooters but the motor and prop and shroud etc are all the same. The Teknas are actually a little stronger running that the modern high zoot scooters I have seen--but--I have not seen them all--comapring to the best SeaDoo--there is no comparison, one is a toy and the other is an F16 fighter jet.
I have been considering modifying the red scooter to accept six stainless spring clamps to hold it together and dispense with the screws. I have been told it will not work--well--maybe---but--I have been told such things before and succeeded completely.
Linear Mode
