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I should have added that with the larger steel tanks moving the tank further away from your back will affect your center of gravity. Maybe with the inherent buoyuancy of aluminum tanks this problem is minimized. I forget some people still use aluminum, I haven't used them in years.
It's the same physics as standing up in a kayak, the higher you place weight the more unstable they become. By staying low in a kayak or canoe the more stable they remain. Same with placement of a tank on your back, the closer it is to your body, the less it will tend to roll you.
You're talking about an 1 inch (at best) displacement from using it vs. not using it. I'd bet a dollar the difference to COG is negligable! Standing up in a kayak shifts the weight a few feet!
I am hoping it will not be difficult to set up and get used to after wearing a BC the last 50+ dives.
Assembly is straightforward and you'll probably love the improvement in your trim the first time you dive with your BP.
BTW I've got the SS plate with an Oxycheq MachV wing for singles and don't use an STA - with the 2 cam bands the tank is very stable (I dived AL80s in warm water and my Faber HP100 in cold). With the HP100 and diving in a Fusion I only needed 8lbs on my belt.
You're probably going to wonder why you ever dived with a BC.
Currently in warm water I use 12lb of weight on an AL80 & 3/2mm shortie & BC.
With the DR SS plate/harness I should be able to drop off 6lb and go to a 6lb weight belt.
I still use AL80 in warm water.(that's what most resorts use)
Trim will be much easier.
Now for cold water, I am using a rental BC, a used beat up rental 7mm suit, AL80, and 24 lb of weight.
With the switch to the DR SS plate/harness, HP100, and a new 7mm full suit with hooded vest, I am thinking 6 for the BP/W, 6 for the tank, so 12 lb off the belt. This would take the belt from 24lb to 12lb. Nice. Can't see the need yet for the XS scuba weight pouch on the tank cam bands. Want some ditchable weight.
Thanks for all the comments and advice.
Currently in warm water I use 12lb of weight on an AL80 & 3/2mm shortie & BC.
With the DR SS plate/harness I should be able to drop off 6lb and go to a 6lb weight belt.
I still use AL80 in warm water.
Trim will be much easier.
Now for cold water, I am using a rental BC, a used beat up rental 7mm suit, AL80, and 24 lb of weight.
With the switch to the DR SS plate/harness, HP100, and a new 7mm full suit with hooded vest, I am thinking 6 for the BP/W, 6 for the tank, so 12 lb off the belt. This would take it from 24lb to 12lb on the weight belt. Nice. Can't see the need yet for the XS scuba weight pouch on the tank cam bands. Want some ditchable weight.
Thanks for all the comments and advice.
Last edited by blue steal; February 20th, 2010 at 01:33 AM.
Reason: Crap, double post, I am tired
With the switch to the DR SS plate/harness, HP100, and a new 7mm full suit with hooded vest, I am thinking 6 for the BP/W, 6 for the tank, so 12 lb off the belt. This would take the belt from 24lb to 12lb. Nice. Can't see the need yet for the XS scuba weight pouch on the tank cam bands. Want some ditchable weight.
Thanks for all the comments and advice.
Which HP100 are you getting? If it's a Faber FX series they're pretty much neutral when empty so you'd end up taking about 4lbs off compared to an AL80. If you're getting a heavier HP100 (between -2 & -3 lbs when empty) then you'd be taking about 6lbs off.
Which HP100 are you getting? If it's a Faber FX series they're pretty much neutral when empty so you'd end up taking about 4lbs off compared to an AL80. If you're getting a heavier HP100 (between -2 & -3 lbs when empty) then you'd be taking about 6lbs off.
I just bought a HP100 from the LDS at their annual sale, good price. It is a Worthington HP100 with the XS scuba valve.