Homemade weight molds

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rickym96

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Location
Middle Tennessee
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I have made a couple weight molds to be able to pour my own scuba weights for an weight integrated BC but have just guessed at the sizes to make the mold and I don't get an even number(1lbs, 2lbs) for the weight. Has anybody made their own molds and if so what is the size for getting the correct weight?
 
Try something like a cupcake tin or a mini bread loaf pan. Through trial and error, you can get the weight you need. Mark the side, and now you have the proper mold.
 
Last edited:
Could you use an existing weight to get a template?


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Please be careful dealing with lead. It's incredibly easy to ingest, especially for smokers, and it causes a world of issues. I've done my own casting in the past, and I don't think I will do any more. It's just too dangerous.
 
I agree. I used to do a lot of bullet casting, and to do it safely requires good ventilation (ideally outside) and a great deal of care to keep your hands away from your nose and mouth during the process and until you've washed them thoroughly.

At that time I stored all my various lead allows in 2-5 pound ingots made with my scuba weight mold, then stamped a code letter on them to denote the specific lead alloy.

If I shoot cast bullets now, I usually buy them and in pistol calibers as well as .30-30 I often shoot copper plated lead bullets if they are available as they cost only slightly more than cast bullets and further reduce lead exposure from handling. I still cast my own bullets for my 1859 paper cartridge Sharps and my .45-70 Sharps, but I buy pretty much everything else pre-cast.

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Most people probably have not considered what happens with soft weights, where the lead shot in the self draining pouches rubs against itself. It creates fine particles of lead, and it ends up in the water and in the air, so they are in my opinion less desirable than hard weights and I only use them in application that really require them (the long skinny weight pouches on the SMS 50 for example). Soft weights are not horribly eco friendly, and after they've been in use awhile, they deserve some care in handling.

For awhile in the 1990s there were eco friendly soft weights that had the lead shot contained in a thick plastic pouch that was also fluid filled to take up the intercene spaces - but they were not around all that long.

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Way back in the day Tuna cans were often used to cast weights in the 2-5 pound weight range, with the weight being controlled by the depth t which the can was filled. The caster then cut the can away with tin snips, and used a screw and washer to attach the weight to a belt - often a military surplus web belt. The belt was used as an example of what not to do for a weight belt when I got certified in 1985 as it was non ditch-able, but you could could still drill a pilot hole and screw weights to a conventional weight belt if you desire.

Muffin tins are a lot easier as the taper allows the weights to just drop out, and again you can control the weight by controlling the depth of the fill.

However, given the low cost of a weight mold, I don't see any reason to use anything else.

http://www.buy.com/prod/aqua-4-5-lbs-block-style-weight-mold/217996038.html?listingId=119295782
 
Here's a fairly inexpensive mold from Scuba.com: Amazon.com: Trident Lead Diving Weight Mold: Sports & Outdoors It has graduations to make different sizes.

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But again, the fumes are not good for you. Not only should it ventilated, but you should wear an activated carbon filter.
 
Pete posted while I was editing, but it's the same basic trident mold I've used for over 20 years and I have never managed to break it.

I've also used both the respirator we used to use in aerial application as well as surplus gas masks with activated charcoal filters.

It might seem like overkill but lead is not something your body is able to eliminate so the dosage is cumulative over your life time.

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I have already made two molds, one I turned on a lathe and the other I milled out of square stock. I have poured out 20 lbs of weight so far for me and a dive buddy but the weights are not exact i.e. 2lbs. It is cheaper for me to make a mold than it is to buy one as I have the material and equipment to make them. I would just like to be able to get the weighting more accurate.
 
If it makes you feel better I have found a lot of the manufactured weights I have don't actually weigh what they say they do, usually under. I guess it's a profit deal.



Bob
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I may be old, but I’m not dead yet.
 
I have already made two molds, one I turned on a lathe and the other I milled out of square stock. I have poured out 20 lbs of weight so far for me and a dive buddy but the weights are not exact i.e. 2lbs. It is cheaper for me to make a mold than it is to buy one as I have the material and equipment to make them. I would just like to be able to get the weighting more accurate.

For molds I used 1# coffee cans. I needed 1# & 2# weights and have a lot of lead from making sinkers & decoy anchors. I took a small scale and added a 10# weight to get it to the middle of it's range (most accurate place), noted the weight, then added the weight I wanted (1# or 2#) with a little extra to account for the skim (slag) that needs to be removed once melted. Then I put the measured lead into a greased coffee can and melted it with a propane torch, skimmed off the slag and let it cool. The grease makes a lot of smoke but it's easier to get the lead out. Fast and easy and accurate. After cooling I reweighed to see if I needed to remove some lead (file) but they were right on.

Absolutely do this outside and keep yourself upwind. Not so sure you have to be concerned about handling the lead. All of my family has fished for a ton of years, handled lead as split shot (often crimped between teeth) and sinkers. We also made tons of spit shot and sinkers and decoy anchors and none of us has ever gotten sick. We did have great respect for the fumes though. And we washed up before we ate.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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