proprietary o-ring equivalents

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raftingtigger

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I'm helping a friend start re-building his regulators. It would help to have a table of equivalent o-rings to the proprietary numbers in many of the service manuals. I'll start with some I know and some I would like to know. Contributions from others most welcome.

o-ring equivilents
Manufacterpart #standard sizecsODIDNotes
USD8200-08006 1/16"1/4"1/8"
8280-05006 backup ring
8200-380111/16"7/16"5/16"
9570040121/16"1/2"3/8"
8244-070131/16"9/16"7/16"
9570250131/16"9/16"7/16"
8200-14Probably a 014
2844-08
8200-16Probably a 016
8203-14
8200-10Probably a 010
ScubaPro01-050-1270081/16"
9020101/16"3/8"1/4"very close and will work, you will have to push hard to insert it.
01-050-1320101/16"3/8"1/4"
01-050-137010 90D1/16"3/8"1/4"
01-050-1380111/16"
01-050-1440121/16"
01-050-1470131/16"
01-050-1520141/16"
01-050-1570151/16"
01-050-1790221/16"
01-050-1790221/16"
01-050-1840241/16"
01-050-322117
 
In addition to the sizes you also need the durometer (hardness) of the oring, too soft and it will extrude under pressure and too hard, it will not seat correctly. Typically, if there is a high pressure differential, a higher durometer used (85-90), for lower pressure differentials, a softer (65-70) is used. Material is also important although nitrile (burna-N) is OK in most applications, Viton is often times the preferred choice but not really necessary until you start getting into higher O2 levels. Theoretically, Viton has a longer service life in higher O2 concentrations and it likely does but the typical service interval is much shorter than the reduce service life of nitrile so it makes no real difference.
 
In addition to the sizes you also need the durometer (hardness) of the oring, too soft and it will extrude under pressure and too hard, it will not seat correctly. Typically, if there is a high pressure differential, a higher durometer used (85-90), for lower pressure differentials, a softer (65-70) is used. Material is also important although nitrile (burna-N) is OK in most applications, Viton is often times the preferred choice but not really necessary until you start getting into higher O2 levels. Theoretically, Viton has a longer service life in higher O2 concentrations and it likely does but the typical service interval is much shorter than the reduce service life of nitrile so it makes no real difference.

Exactly why I have the durometer of at least one of the listings. As a general rule I use 90 duro for dynamic places and 70-75 for static uses. If you know the OEM duro for these part numbers please share.

The ScubaPro o-ring size thread is good. This is to expand on it and include other manufacturers. As information is added I will try to keep the database updated.
 
The search functionality of SB has room for improvement but on threads such as

http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/repairing-your-own-gear/322518-scubapro-o-ring-sizes.html

you will find related info.

The search functionality of SB within SB is nonexistent.
But,
Google seems to work quiet well in an assist.
I guess it's the "Engine".

Now....
Back to your regularly scheduled o-ring fest.

Chug
Agrees that cheap is often good enough.
 
Exactly why I have the durometer of at least one of the listings. As a general rule I use 90 duro for dynamic places and 70-75 for static uses. If you know the OEM duro for these part numbers please share.

The ScubaPro o-ring size thread is good. This is to expand on it and include other manufacturers. As information is added I will try to keep the database updated.

That is not a good way to determine durometer. There are basically no static orings, with the exception of the yoke and DIN to tank interface orings used in scuba equipment- which are 90 durometer. This is a discussion that pops up every so often and there is a lot of confusion on what constitutes a dynamic oring. What most fail to realize is if the oring and it's mating surface EVER are in motion past each other, then for that moment in time, it is dynamic and once dynamic it remains so, the fact that it remains stationary during service is irrelevant. A prefect example are the port and hose orings, most will say they are static but in reality they are dynamic. Why? Because during installation the oring slides past it's mating surface, which by the way is one of the reasons a port/hose ring should be lightly lubed.
An example of where a higher durometer oring is used in a obviously dynamic capacity is the piston shaft oring in regs such as the SP MK-5 and 10s, it is typically 85 or 90 durometer as opposed to it's companion oring on the piston face which is 70 durometer. The shaft oring is operating at a much higher pressure differential (3000-135) than it's companion oring (135-0) so it must be a higher durometer to prevent extrusion while the head oring is softer so it will seal properly.
 
That is not a good way to determine durometer. There are basically no static orings, with the exception of the yoke and DIN to tank interface orings used in scuba equipment- which are 90 durometer. This is a discussion that pops up every so often and there is a lot of confusion on what constitutes a dynamic oring. What most fail to realize is if the oring and it's mating surface EVER are in motion past each other, then for that moment in time, it is dynamic and once dynamic it remains so, the fact that it remains stationary during service is irrelevant. A prefect example are the port and hose orings, most will say they are static but in reality they are dynamic. Why? Because during installation the oring slides past it's mating surface, which by the way is one of the reasons a port/hose ring should be lightly lubed.
An example of where a higher durometer oring is used in a obviously dynamic capacity is the piston shaft oring in regs such as the SP MK-5 and 10s, it is typically 85 or 90 durometer as opposed to it's companion oring on the piston face which is 70 durometer. The shaft oring is operating at a much higher pressure differential (3000-135) than it's companion oring (135-0) so it must be a higher durometer to prevent extrusion while the head oring is softer so it will seal properly.

Herman, very good info. A lot of it is in the referenced ScubaPro o-ring thread.

FOR EVERYONE ON THIS THREAD, the point of the post was to have an easily referenced equivalent (size, material, and hardness) o-ring chart for the DIYer. If you know the dimensions of an o-ring part number not already given then please post it. If you know the material and/or hardness then please include that information also. Everything else just clutters the thread and makes extracting the info harder.
 

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