Welcome to ScubaBoard, an online scuba diving forum community where you can join over 185,000 divers from around the world discussing all things related to Scuba Diving. To gain full access to ScubaBoard (and make this large box go away) you must register for a free account. As a registered member you will be able to:
Participate in over 500 dive topic forums and browse from over 5,500,000 posts.
Communicate privately with other divers from around the world.
Post your own photos or view from well over 100,000 user submitted images.
Gain access to our free classifieds marketplace to buy, sell and trade gear, travel and services.
Use the calendar to organize your events and enroll in other members' events.
All this and much more is available to you absolutely free when you register for an account, so sign up today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact the ScubaBoard Support Team.
Wayne-
I read somewhere that you can wire the MT-4 for a Maglite 6D. That would have twice the voltage as a 3D. What do you do different with the MT-4 to handle the extra voltage?
-Brad
Wayne-
I read somewhere that you can wire the MT-4 for a Maglite 6D. That would have twice the voltage as a 3D. What do you do different with the MT-4 to handle the extra voltage?
-Brad
Two pairs of two in series. Nominal 7.2V. The nice thing about this is that the overall amperage pull is about 2A. Four LEDs wired in parallel at 3.6V and 4 amps is 14.4W, and two pairs of LEDs in series is also 14.4W. But using 6D cells will double your run time, and if you use 12,000mAh D cells, that would be around 6 hours continuous runtime of 800 approximate lumens.
Had about 15 minutes in a dark pool tonight (no light other than the dive lights), and I took this beam shot @ 4'. Miniwave on the left, MT-4 Maglite on the right. You can see the MT-4 spill pattern in the lower center of the pic. Camera batteries died so I couldn't take any more pics, but it really lit up the pool @ 25' -30'.
We're back from Bonaire (unfortunately) and the light performed flawlessly. I took it with me on seven dives, day and night. Max depth was 110' fsw, never a hint of a leak.
There was definitely better penetration with the MT-4 Maglite than the Miniwave. The hot spot would pierce dark water maybe 75'? (Daytime vis was at least 80'). This was my first night dive, and it's hard for me to judge distance underwater at night. We dove a double reef in the afternoon, then went back to the same site that night. There was about 150' - 200' between the reefs, and swimming out to the second reef I figured the MT-4 started picking up the reef about half way across. For close up, though, the hot spot was distracting, just wasn't the even beam pattern of the Miniwave.
In daylight, the Miniwave gets washed out, but the hot spot of the Maglite still lit things up to show more color. It was also great for lighting up holes from a distance, so I didn't have to swim over to get a close look to see if something was in there. It also did a much better job penetrating deep inside the Hilma Hooker, a 235' cargo ship sitting @100' depth.
At night, I used the MT-4 on power level two for most of the time, only occasionally turning it up to level four, like when crossing between the reefs. Otherwise, level four was too intense for close viewing.
An explanation of the attached pics:
Pic #1 is a daytime shot with the camera flash disabled, showing the hot spot in full sunlit 80' plus visibility.
#2 is a blurry night shot with the camera's flash disabled; the hotspot is about 15-20 feet away @ power level 4.
Pics 3-6 are night shots taken with a compact point-and-shoot Cannon 550SD and no external strobe. The internal flash was enough to wash out the MT-4 hot spot (power level two), and the camera, of course, needed the Maglite to focus.
Overall, I'm pretty happy with the modified Maglite. I kept it clipped to my BC with an Aries retractor. It is bulky; the Miniwave wins hands down for size. One of the reasons I built the MT-4 Maglite is now I keep it in my truck; it makes a great tactical light. Thanks again to all who gave me tips on this project. Now I have to start planning a trip back to Bonaire...
That's pretty awesome pics. I really appreciate the photos. It's neat to see the light engine I made used in such a way. The reed switch idea I've thought about for a long time, but never did it. After seeing this work by you, I have been inspired to follow through making a few designs of dive lights. I'm not sure where to post about such activity, as I do not want to appear as inappropriately plugging for products to sell .
If it is a DIY project then you are fine, and possibly even asking divers what they might be looking for in a dive light, but once the product is finished and available, I dont believe you can post it without being a sponsor. (mod will have to verify)
If it is a DIY project then you are fine, and possibly even asking divers what they might be looking for in a dive light, but once the product is finished and available, I dont believe you can post it without being a sponsor. (mod will have to verify)
Okay, I'll look into the rules. I'm not really in the DIY category, as I'm a manufacturer. Probably need to go the sponsor route.
I posted this on CPF but thought some folks here may be interested too.
Are you going to make some heat sinks for the SSC P7? I'd be interested if you are, I think that's gonna make one sweet light if I cna find a way to heat sink it and drive it. Around here I want a tighter pattern than a multi-emmitter head really offers, and this seems like the ticket.
LinkBack URL
About LinkBacks
COMBO DIVE/VIDEO LIGHT 1800/3600 Lumen
Reply With Quote
Originally Posted by bradsab
) and the light performed flawlessly. I took it with me on seven dives, day and night. Max depth was 110' fsw, never a hint of a leak.
