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Thread: scubapro Air II - Gen 2

 

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    scubapro Air II - Gen 2

    So here it goes people.
    History - I had a SP mk3 108 with a Air II g2 as my original rig. used till 2000 when I transplanted to CT and just didn't feel like diving here. Got back into diving and bought a new set up in 2010. Didn't seem that great and I missed the old rig( that one LDS told me to throw out). Then found on Craiglists a MK5 - 109 with stab jacket that came with a steel 72 tank ( was looking for a tank and got the bonus)....
    Stab jacket didn't hold air so i tossed. Decided to shelf the MK3 and set up the MK5 with 109 and 108 for octo. Found a LDS that would service a wayyy out of service 109 which is bringing it's own issues that are on another thead. To make a long story stop. i was curious, i have a shelved SP Air II -G 2 purchased in 86 and not serviced since I'd say 98. My questions are:
    1.what would it take to bring it out of retirement? Parts. costs (I don't DYI with regs as I don't have the training nor the fleet of regs to justify training)
    2.Would it still be logical to use this dinosoour?
    a. I do have an oct on both sets so i really don't need another
    b. given the cost of a new one would anyone really want to service and old one.
    c. What parts do I need for this and are they commonly available?

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    I love my AIR2's and these things don't need a lot of attentions.
    OTOH, if you have everything you need and you don't DIY, I see no reason to mess with it. Just give it to somebody for parts.

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    I'm sure someone will buy the air2. None of those regs are particularly old, BTW, certainly not 'dinosaurs'. Unless it was abused, like stored with salt water residue still in it, I bet it would be just fine with a rebuild.

    I hope your LDs didn't break an arm patting itself on the back for servicing your MK5/109/108. Both second stages use current rebuild kits, and the MK5 is one of the simplest, easy-to-service regulators ever made. Any scubapro dealer that says they can't be serviced, or even that it's some special challenge, is either kidding you or themselves. There are two things that are not idiot-proof on the MK5, though, and that would give me a little pause to bring one of those to an unknown dive store. One is that the tech must be VERY careful removing the old HP o-ring, not to scratch the journal that it rests in. This can be quite easy with the right tool and difficult without it. The other is that if there is still a brass turret bolt on the MK5, it must not be over torqued, and the spec is around 35inch/lbs, which is only a bit past hand tight. A few of us have a supply of SS turret bolts that Zung had made in Europe, so if your tech is savvy enough to A)be able to tell if the current bolt is brass or SS, and B) savvy enough to be interested in replacing the brass one with SS, one of us could supply one.

    With the MK5/109/108, you now have a classic regulator set that is IMO the equal of almost anything out there, and about 1000 times cooler than any of the current fashion/status/lifestyle statements that dive shops tell us we need to enjoy diving.

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    Quote Originally Posted by halocline View Post
    With the MK5/109/108, you now have a classic regulator set that is IMO the equal of almost anything out there, and about 1000 times cooler than any of the current fashion/status/lifestyle statements that dive shops tell us we need to enjoy diving.
    Thanks, I love it and it does look cool. I walked out of LDS 1 and never went back. The challenges so far with LDS 2. start with he's not a Scubapro dealer and although he has been around long enough his current service books don't go back that far. He got the mk5 and 108 turned around without a hitch but ran into a snag with the old poppet on the 109. Once the Duro Poppet arrives we may have enconter the lever problem. It's all on another thread.

    As for the air II. Your right, i do have everthing that I need, so i really don't need to add the air II to my rig. I'll think about it a bit. But anyway, It's in good shape and I wanted to know if there are particular issues with servicing it. Like sourcing particular parts.

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    The second generation air-2 has mostly the same guts as the modern ones (I know - I have generations 2,3,4 and "restyled"). Aside from the diaphragm ring on the outside, you can get most parts new. That one is only available from the boneyard. Nothing wrong with it. If you don't want it, send it my way.......

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    The AIR II Second gen takes a handful of common o-rings and the same seat as the newer models-a simple puck style seat. There are also a couple of pieces that "by the book" require replacing, but you can ignore the book if you have a bit of common sense and some lock-tight. (or fingernail polish.)

    Now mind you this is the DIY section, so here is what I suggest. You don't really need this reg so download the schematic and take that puppy apart. Have fun playing with it, then if you really cannot get it back together in working order, send the pieces to Rhwestfall for disposal.
    Thank you to all who make this wonderful resource available and to all the thoughtful contributors.

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    Thats the spirit. I'll do just that. It sounds like fun....fhwestfall will be the first to know If I can't pull this one off. I think I'll tear apart the MK3 while I'm at it..

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    So I ripped it apart (the Air II) then I went online to find a munual on how to do that. It's always my favorite way of doing things........ Kinda fun. figured out what to replace seat and about half doz o rings. everything looks to be in great shape. As I understand a short soak in vinegar should clean it up then to lube various o-rings prior to putting it back together. So here are my questions.
    1. It sure seems like the spider tool is a pretty big deal with the reassembly. Can I get around that purchase with a little patience?
    2. It shows a cracking pressure of 1.4 to 2.0 inches of water. Can I use water to measure this? and how? Or do I need this Magnehelic guage to measure virtual water?

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    1. A needle nose plyer works fine. Just go slow
    2. You can make a fine manometer for 2 bucks

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