Installing the heater inflator valve.

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kr2y5

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If anyone installed a heater inflator valve, I'd be grateful if you could share your experiences. I'm installing Santi Thermovalve in my Whites Fusion.

I've already extracted the Apeks valve. The outer cap of the Thermovalve seems to fit the suit: there is a groove on the valve that matches one of the grooves on the outer rubber patch, as shown below. The inner part seems a bit more problematic. The suit has a bunch of grooves on the inside rubber patch as well, and the apeks Valve has matching grooves, but the inner portion of the Santi valve has a completely flat sealing surface. I wonder if it's a good idea to put something between the valve and the suit. Reusing the inner cap from the Apeks valve is not an option I'm considering yet, since I couldn't thread the cord through it without drilling holes in it.

IMG_3492.jpgIMG_3493.jpg

Installation is also a bit problematic... since the inner cap has a flat sealing surface, the valve grabs the suit stronger on the inside than on the outside, so the only way I can tighten it is by rotating the outside. I guess not a big deal, just seems odd, so I wonder if I'm missing something obvious...

The other issue is the positioning of all the outlets. I intend to use this setup in backmount and sidemount, with drysuit inflator coming from different sides (from under the left armpit in backmount, and from the right tank in sidemount). The only sensible positioning that comes to mind is one with the E/O outlet pointing horizontally straight to the right, and leaving the inflator 90-degree range from point horizontal, to going straight down. Not optimal, though...

IMG_3494.jpg

What does your setup look like? Any thoughts you can offer?
 
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Mine looks exactly the same as yours position wise. I have mine on a Santi suit. On the inside of my suit there is no rubber gasket. There is a thin white plastic washer hard against material of the suit, presumably to stop the suit material from twisting/bunching when the unit is tightened down, and the inside of the unit is screwed against that. The sealing rubber gasket is on the outside of the suit only. I can take mine apart and have a closer look if that would help.
 
Thanks very much for offering to take yours apart, I do not want to trouble you so much just yet.... what you described makes me worry a bit less, so I am going to just test drive this whole setup in the water tomorrow, and see what happens...

Part of my confusion is that I do not seem to have a gasket. I did not have one installed with the Apeks valve, and none came with the Santi valve, either. I presume the plasticky-rubbery thing with concentric grooves in it that is glued on both sides of the drysuit should suffice to provide enough of a seal... From what you describe, and from what I am seeing, it sounds like the seal is mostly made by the outer part of the valve (with ridges matching the grooves) pressing against the outer part of the suit, whereas the inner parts are just there to prevent the suit material from getting caught during tightening.

The positioning of the E/O cord, going straight to the right horizontally, works perfectly as far as the cord lengths, with one exception... my E/O cord connection ends up right inside my armpit, and competing for space with my backup light, which seems a little bit suboptimal. With a fragile connection in a place where things are somewhat crowded, moving, and out of sight, I'm worried about the danger of the E/O potentially disconnecting while the canister is on, and frying the battery. Stuffing the cord underneath harness strap, though, seems like it would end up just crushing that thin cord, and put even more tension on the cord, so not sure about that, either.
 
If anyone installed a heater inflator valve, I'd be grateful if you could share your experiences. I'm installing Santi Thermovalve in my Whites Fusion.

I've already extracted the Apeks valve. The outer cap of the Thermovalve seems to fit the suit: there is a groove on the valve that matches one of the grooves on the outer rubber patch, as shown below. The inner part seems a bit more problematic. The suit has a bunch of grooves on the inside rubber patch as well, and the apeks Valve has matching grooves, but the inner portion of the Santi valve has a completely flat sealing surface. I wonder if it's a good idea to put something between the valve and the suit. Reusing the inner cap from the Apeks valve is not an option I'm considering yet, since I couldn't thread the cord through it without drilling holes in it.

View attachment 203672View attachment 203673

Installation is also a bit problematic... since the inner cap has a flat sealing surface, the valve grabs the suit stronger on the inside than on the outside, so the only way I can tighten it is by rotating the outside. I guess not a big deal, just seems odd, so I wonder if I'm missing something obvious...

The other issue is the positioning of all the outlets. I intend to use this setup in backmount and sidemount, with drysuit inflator coming from different sides (from under the left armpit in backmount, and from the right tank in sidemount). The only sensible positioning that comes to mind is one with the E/O outlet pointing horizontally straight to the right, and leaving the inflator 90-degree range from point horizontal, to going straight down. Not optimal, though...

View attachment 203674

What does your setup look like? Any thoughts you can offer?

Looks awesome!

So, 2 options...and I don't know if #1 will work until you try it :)

1- Tighten it up, and then leak test it to see if it will work. Unfortunately, the Apeks valves don't use the white teflon washer that Budds is talking about. So, just tighten it up, inflate the suit, and leak test it to see if it leaks.

2- If it does leak....just grab a little RTV silicon from your local hardware store, and add a thin bead into one of the grooves. Tighten the valve up, and you will be good.

Honestly, #1 should be suffice....but you never know so just check it before you go diving with a quick leak check. Let me know what you find out, then I will know for next time :wink:

If you had Si Tech valves, what Budds said would apply, and the teflon disc would help seal it.
 
Thanks, Mike! Just to double-check, guys: you do NOT recommend adding any kind of a washer on either side here, right? I ask because I vaguely remember from our conversation about P-valve installation that a washer on the wrong side, in some cases, might actually cause it to leak more (as was my experience with the P-valve).
 
My valve is the same i.e Santi Thermovalve. It originally had a Sitech valve so it's possible I am confused. I'll take mine apart tonight and post back.

---------- Post added February 24th, 2015 at 11:25 PM ----------

I don't see how a washer placed on the inside would hurt, assuming my understanding is correct, the seal is maintained by the outer suit gasket? But I leave that to the experts at DRIS for a more definitive answer.

Ps Mike, you did an awesome job on installing the quick neck on my suit.
 
So, when installing a P-valve, from my findings and very limited experience :wink: if you put a washer on the outside AND inside, when you tighten it all up, they fight against each other and as you tighten them...one will buckle and allow water to pass thru. So, if you use one, you can get it tighter without the same issue. On a p-valve, the washer should only be on the inside.

For this suit, you should be OK as you do have double pads attached to the suit (outside and inside). So, unlike the above, no matter how much you tighten it, they can't buckle and twist. The only concern is that the pad on the inside has those rings in it...which honestly shouldn't be an issue, but it's a drysuit. Until you test it, you have no clue. I would not add anything. Just tighten it all up, leak test, and report back. If it leaks, add RTV silicon and you will be golden

Glad you liked it! I assume the entire thing is dry now too Budds? :D
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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