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Thread: I just read a thread a remembered that I need a dive light, too

 


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    smellzlikefish's Avatar
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    I just read a thread a remembered that I need a dive light, too

    My dive lights suck.

    One takes 8 D cell batteries and while it has the power of the sun, its weight and bulk prohibit carrying it around unless I really need it, and even then I opt for something else. That something else is the right size to fit in a BC pocket, but produces an embarrassingly small glow. My buddy keeps getting these lights that work spectacularly for a few dives before they flood or just stop working. He's seriously on his fourth or so light now. While he takes care of his things, I beat the snot out of mine and therefore don't want anything that he can break.

    So here, in no particular order, are my criteria:

    -Small
    -Bright
    -Reliable

    I have maybe a hundred bucks "ish" to spend.
    1. Always use the right tool for the job.
    2. A hammer is always the right tool.
    3. Anything can be used as a hammer.


    http://milisenphotography.yolasite.com/

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    aquaregia's Avatar
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    Jorgy's Avatar
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    The Dorcy is a great light, I am partial to the Nova:

    Diving Backup Lights - Dive Gear Express

    I prefer the push button on/off, not the twist on/off - but thats just me.

    M

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    currier's Avatar
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    swear by mine

    TUL-300 boasts a 200 Lumen LED with a 42 degree beam angle

    Tabata USA, Inc. - NEW : TUL-300 LED DIVE LIGHT [TUL-300]

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    smellzlikefish's Avatar
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    I had that TUL-300 and loved it for the week that it worked. Then the switch stopped working for no apparent reason.
    1. Always use the right tool for the job.
    2. A hammer is always the right tool.
    3. Anything can be used as a hammer.


    http://milisenphotography.yolasite.com/

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    aquaregia's Avatar
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    The TUL-300 is okay for looking at stuff, but it's really really wide and sometimes even identifying an OK with it is difficult. Making any descriptive signals is really hard. Also I don't really like to have lights that use the CR123s, not because of cost but because of availability.

    I also quite liked the Intova ICOM, which was similar to the Dorcy, just slightly less bright and with a worse runtime (3xAAA instead of 6xAAA, so understandable). My big problem with the ICOMs were the tail switch spring, which seem to weaken to the point where they no longer work. Each of mine has died in the 75-100 dive range, so for the average vacation diver it's probably just fine.

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    Spg01's Avatar
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    SL3 eLED® LED dive light » Underwater Kinetics

    I have the SL3-eled as a back up at night and as a primary during the day. The are usually around $50 and take 3 c-cell bateries. I did have a problem with the one i originally bought, but UK replaced it and the new light has been fine.
    ***************************************
    Sorry for the , but you sir, have the best avatar on SB.

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    I'm looking into the Penetrator and Dorcy at the moment but am keeping my ears open to other suggestions. I like the idea of using standard AA or AAA batteries as I have a lot of rechargables that I can utilize. If the ICOM dies after 75-100 dives, it would last me maybe 6 months. I've never really considered myself a vacation diver.
    1. Always use the right tool for the job.
    2. A hammer is always the right tool.
    3. Anything can be used as a hammer.


    http://milisenphotography.yolasite.com/

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    Hatul's Avatar
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    The Xstar D01 is a nice 18650 li-ion rechargeable, brighter than the Dorcy. If you like standard AA batteries Ni-MH then Pop-lite makes one
    F2 Cree Q5 100-Lumen Diving LED Flashlight (4*AA) - Free Shipping - DealExtreme

    it's roughly the same brightness as the Dorcy without the hassle of 6 AAA cells.

    Here's another that takes 3 AA:
    http://www.dealextreme.com/p/ultrafi...ght-3-aa-20762

    I have the modified version of this light and the case is very tough and nice with 3 O rings.

    Adam
    Last edited by Hatul; January 2nd, 2012 at 06:47 PM.

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    currier's Avatar
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    Just as an update - I was using the Tusa, but like smellzlikefish stated, the on/off switch began to come off mine ... another dive or two and it wouldn't have been there any longer.

    I lost the thing, anyway, but didn't lose any sleep over it. The CR123A is an expensive battery that is difficult to find at times.

    Thanks to the advice in this thread, I replaced it by purchasing (x3) Dorcy Penetrator 220 from Pirhana.

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