Maldives, Red Sea, PNG and Palau - order of difficulty

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bwine

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Location
San Francisco, California
# of dives
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Hi all,

I am a new diver (about 60 dives) and already obsessed! I've been diving in Roatan, the Channel Islands, Borneo and Cozumel, with trips to Fernando de Noronha and a liveaboard in Belize on the horizon. Looking ahead to the next couple of years, my dreams, if the frequent flier gods are cooperative, are to go to the Maldives, the Red Sea, PNG and Palau. How would you rank those in order of difficulty so that I get the most out of each experience? I've read about the strong currents in Palau and the Red Sea and want to be prepared. I will also return to the Channel Islands and Monterey in between those trips. Any other suggestions on places to get some good experience diving in current? Thanks for your input.

Brandi
 
You are asking a very broad question with no defined answer.

Currents are likely a very minor part of the equation. If you are serious about learning currents while remaining in the Caribbean, the craziest rides are in Tobago (Speyside/North). Cozumel is far down the scale at #2. (There are wilder currents in the Mar Caribe, but these two are easily accessible by vacationers)

The important considerations that truly define advanced diving, in my book...

Can you gear-up in the cramped confines of a very small boat? Are you familiar with back rolls of a gunnel on command? Negative (instantaneous descents) entries? (To avoid conflicting surface currents) Can you shoot your SMB from 20fsw and hang safely there, off gassing, while you patiently await a small boat (panga or RIB) to come near? Are you familiar with peeling off your gear and handing it up to a boatsman (without killing you both)? Vertical rickety wooden ladders, or no ladder at all? Can you make yourself small in that panga, keep your gear close, and also be a hand assist to others boarding?

The two Caribbean examples above are a perfect example. Cozumel is designed for ease of diving by more commodious dive boats and DMs that have learned well to watch over their common customer's abilities. Tobago Speyside is fairly rough in terms of dive boats and mechanical infrastructure. The DMs usually see divers who understand what they're in for- they don't expect to be needed by you- they're mostly there for you to stick with and follow, lest you wind up swirling towards Africa.

Both Caribbean, both with fabled currents, totally different requirements for diving abilities. Unless one has done them both, it's hard to speak of the differences.

Currents are easy. Talk to the DM, stick with him, ask questions, be observant. Do some reading here and elsewhere regarding not only familiar lateral currents but also down/up wellings. Learn, at least by reading, the simple methods used to counteract currents that you don't like.

Then, go with the flow.

Any destination in your list- and most every dive locale- you can find widely diverse quality of dive boats, ladders, systems, and yes- even DMs, too. More than ordering a list in degree of difficulty, the more important consideration is understanding the physical equipment and processes of the various available dive ops.

Pick a destination, then investigate the differences in the local dive operations.

Choose wisely.
 
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True, very broad question...here's what I'd say in the most general sense: easiest to hardest PNG, Palau, Red Sea, Maldives
 
Yes, hard to generalize - different locations in such large regions, different phase of the moon, whatever - things can vary a lot. Of those I've only done Palau and Maldives once each, by liveaboard. Palau is known for currents but we didn't have much when we were there. The currents we experienced in the Maldives were sometimes crazy and a couple times I was really wishing I were not in the water. I got the sense that things are somewhat unpredictable in the Maldives, which ups the challenge a bit. Great diving though.
 
.... The currents we experienced in the Maldives were sometimes crazy and a couple times I was really wishing I were not in the water.

Another good illustration of where I was going in post #2.

The Maldives is usually done via live aboard by North Americans. The true bulk of their (Maldives) guest divers are instead land based, largely EU Citizens. They don't do many dives in any given week, but the majority of them are shore dives, a few will use small "Dhoni" boats for some dives. Accent is on the "resort", diving is merely an available program. Not a really viable option for most dive-dive-dive mentalities.

Live Aboards are different there. They are usually fancied-up cabin cruisers that are not necessarily rigged in any fashion for diving. So looking at their websites won't show you much about that aspect. All your gear, the tanks and air compressor is set up on a "Dhoni", their local version of a "panga", it's a smaller wooden boat with long bench seats, a wooden roof. They work well for some pretty easy getting in-and-out of the water. You transfer from the Cabin Cruiser to the Dhoni, go diving, they drop you back off and then drive a distance away with your gear to run the compressors. The Dhoni staff literally spends entire weeks aboard these 40' boats, hell or high water. This can make the anal retentive fresh-water gear-washers among us go absolutely nuttier than squirrel poop.

Some very few, however, are like orbiting space stations: http://www.luxuryyachtmaldives.com/diving_dhoni_service.php but most are cobbled together from various bits of wood.

Most primitive wooden Dhonis work pretty well, for what they are. They seem to have access to gloss enamel paint, which can make the decks very slick. Always accept the hand of a crewman which seemed to be a universal offering. It amazes me how divers will simply not take advantage of an extended hand (lest someone think they are gay?) Every Maldives Dhoni I have ever ridden on, the crew was always extending a hand or trying to keep me from crashing into their ship's internal structures. Bravo.

Much of their real, week to week clientele are non-scuba vacationers who want to deep sea fish or as those European are wont to do- Sunbathe all the parts of their bodies. Sometimes they mix these folks in with divers on a cruise, sometimes not. I was once on a boat there with 18 other divers, all Japanese, all wearing identical orange/silver 007 wetsuits. The boat's food didn't change from their normal fare from the week before.

...I got the sense that things are somewhat unpredictable in the Maldives...

Your live aboard DMs appear to be very transitory, they don't stay long. The DMs that attach to the Maldives live aboards seem to be Western Europeans and they are worked like poorly paid dogs. I have been several times, and I have the distinct sense that they are all just passing through. Add to this, the huge expanse of geography they sail to avoid bad weather, throw in the shallow nature of the hundreds of islands, you have the perfect storm of highly changeable conditions and no access to a truly local expert.

It is however just the most single bizarre dive experience (in an "easily" accessible location), all the way from the thing they call an Airport, the transfer system to the live aboard (or resort) via float plane or cigarette boat, to the peculiar nature of the cooking (with no females allowed on board and you're now being catered to by a guy who never really had to learn to cook since he had a female doing that for him all his life)

Not to be missed.
 
We were on the Manthiri, their main guide was local and had been doing this with them for a long time. I think he still is. He actually did a good job of predicting things, but not always a good job of communicating it. It's clearly tricky and requires lots of local knowledge to do well, given the huge area and combination of wind driven currents and tidal currents around all those atolls and islands.

No kidding about the food and guys that never cooked thing. Our cook actually did great when he cooked local curries, he should have stuck to that. Not so much when he misguidedly tried to cater to western palettes. Especially his undeserved rep for making good Italian food. :(

What felt really weird was a crew of like 30 guys for max 12 passengers. There was a lounge area that was pretty much used by the crew, and I think they took over the sun deck at night to sleep. And only 2 DMs (the other DM was Japanese, which didn't help much on the communication front - only woman on the crew.)

yeah, another world, and not to be missed.
 
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Thank you all for your replies. This is great info for me. I was actually considering the Maldives in November of next year, combined with a trip to Sri Lanka for non-diving activities. Sounds like I should postpone that until I have a bit more experience under my belt. The wackiness of it all seems to be right up my alley, however. I'm pretty adventurous in my topside travel, so need to be patient until I have the skills to safely do so under water as well. I'm looking to travel the entire month of November, half of it for diving and half of it for other adventures, particularly primate viewing. If anyone has any great suggestions for far flung dive locations that are particularly good in November, please throw them out there.
 
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