Grand Turk Trip Report - April 12-19 '06

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lowwall

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Here's a report of my trip to Grand Turk from 4/12 to 4/19.

My wife and I flew into Grand Turk from Fort Lauderdale (FLL) on Spirit Airlines on April 12. After reading of all the problems with Sky King, we thought a direct flight on a full-size airliner was going to make things a lot easier. We couldn't have been more wrong. FLL was a complete zoo as Spirit had five flights leaving within a 20 minute period and fewer than 10 check-in agents. The line literally reached out the door and down the sidewalk, ending around a third of the way to the next terminal. It took an hour to make it to through the line.

The flight itself was uneventful, the plane was a new Airbus and the interior was quite nice. Unfortunately, when we arrived in Grand Turk, we found that only 1 of our 3 checked bags was there. Now the real problems began. Spirit has no personnel on Grand Turk, instead they have an arrangement with Sky King to handle luggage problems. To make a long story short, we eventually got our bags on the last flight from Provo the next day, but only after being lied to repeatedly by Sky King personnel on GT and Provo, wasting a day and a half tracking down the bags ourselves and waiting for promised calls that never came and running up over $220 worth of phone calls.

We finally got in the 78 degree water on April 14 and were pretty much underwhelmed. Visibility ranged from 50-80', but there was a lot of particulate matter. Corals and sea life were nowhere near as abundant as the Caymans (where I've done most of my diving) or even Cozumel. One nice thing is that dive sites are close by, most around a 10 minute ride on the Carolina Skiffs everyone uses.

We dove with Oasis Divers. They are the most professional of the shops on Front Street (I can't speak to the new operation at Bohio House), have the nicest facilities and have a maximum of 6 divers per boat. We saw up to 10 divers going out on the other ops' skiffs. Oasis also seem a little more willing to go to the slightly more distant sites. The DM is the boat captain. He takes you to the site, leads the dive and surfaces to help everyone in. You take off your gear in the water and hand it up and then climb a really small ladder. A couple of the divers complained that the DM didn't beat them back to the surface, so they had to wait around for help. I was usually the last on board so I never saw it for myself. There were no time limits on the dives and you could dive whatever profile you and your computer were happy with. Surface intervals are spent at the dive shop.

Overall, I can't recommend Oasis right now. They are providing all kinds of services to the cruise ships and even though they keep the cruise divers separate, they appear to simply be overwhelmed by the volume of work. Oasis is building a new location that will exclusively deal with the pod people. Once that's done, I'm sure they'll get back to offering the service they've built their reputation on. But until then, I'd stay away. On cruise ship days, we noticed lots of problems, divers given empty tanks or tank bands not tightened, integrated weights left behind, nobody on shore after dives to help us off. Worse, we were rushed through the dives on one day, there was a barely adequate surface interval and then the DM dove a profile that would have taken us into deco if we'd stayed with him. We couldn't figure out what was going on until we got back and found they were using the boat for a 1pm snorkel trip (we usually got back from the second dive around 1:30).

We did one night dive. Unfortunately, the DM was worn out after spending the day setting up and breaking down equipment used by the cruisers in addition to DMing the regular two morning dives, so he really wasn't into it. When the strobe on the hang line went out, he hung a spare flashlight on the line and decided to spend the whole dive in the shallows within around 20 yards of the boat. One of the divers tried to get a partial refund the next day without any luck.

As far as critters went (beyond the usual suspects), over 10 day dives I saw three turtles (I have video of the DM trying to ride a hawksbill which did not make me happy), a couple of barracuda, an octopus, one big crab, a couple of cleaner shrimp, a nurse shark, a bunch of flamingo tongues, one small ray and a juvenile filefish - no lobsters, no eels. On the night dive, we finally saw a couple of lobsters, a spotted drum and a sting ray. I asked about seahorses, but was told the dredging for the cruise ship pier had killed the entire area where they used to hang out.

We stayed at Osprey Beach Hotel in an upstairs room with king bed. No complaints about the room, it was clean and comfortable and looks right over a nice beach. The shower never got above warm, but I wasn't chilled enough for it to bother me. The hotel restaurant - like everyplace on the street - had mediocre food at high prices.

All in all, I'm in no hurry to go back. Good points are that the diving is easy, there's enough variety to keep you interested for a week, and most of the people we ran into were pretty friendly. Bad points are the potential luggage problems, sea life is better elsewhere, and Oasis has some things it has to work out.

A few photos are here http://www.scubaboard.com/gallery/showgallery.php?cat=1790 and a bunch are over on Flickr http://www.flickr.com/photos/98618509@N00/sets/72057594113181898/ if you are interested.

Alex
 
Thanks for the report.

Bad points.......and Oasis has some things it has to work out.
I would definitely say so if one of the DM's was trying to RIDE a turtle. I think that is a dive OP to avoid.
 
I had much the same impression of GT diving. No hurry to return. If I want to travel that far out I would take LC over GT any day.
 
I did GT while on the Wind Dancer, it did South Caicos and Salt Cay also. I thought GT was ok and wouldn't go out of my way to get back there. I liked South Caicos a lot though.
 
Odd, every time I've been there the sea life was good to great, the reef was great and I had no issues with the Ops at Oasis or Blue Water. The one time I had a problem with a DM, they refunded the cost of the dive (he had us head down to wait at 60 feet instead of wait on the surface and I had to head back when I was OOA).

Of course this was a couple of months ago and things can change...

Mike
 
Just out of curiosity what dive sites did you do? Amphitheater and Amp No. and McDonalds are always good, The Aquarium was great as was Gorgonian Wall. Shoot, even a shore dive out from Bohio was good (using DPVs out to the wall and back).
 
I am kind of shocked about the trip review. Oasis Divers are one of the best dive ops down there..unfortunately..sounds like you caught them on a bad day. As far as the dives themselves..I just got back from Coz and thought the reef life was more abundant in Grand Turk because of the Hurricane damage down in Coz. Perhaps the reefs I dove were not as plentiful as some of the other dive sites in Coz because I know the diving is supposed to be awesome down there. As far as trouble on the Sky King..I've been there 6 times over the past year and never had problems with lost luggage..again..sounds like you just had some bad luck but I wouldn't want anyone to be deterred from going there because of that. As far as high prices on food...dude..you are on an island in the middle of the ocean..everything has to be flown in so of course, it isn't cheap. I do know that Grand Turk has food flow in on Tuesdays because that is the day all the menus change on the island.
 
It wasn't just a bad day, I dove with Oasis for 5 days in a row. The problem is that on 3 of those days they were also handling the cruise ships. As I mentioned it appears they just can't provide regular divers with their old levels of service while dealing with the cruise ship traffic. It's not just the 20-40 divers from the cruise ships, they are also running kayaking trips, snorkel trips and guiding groups of little power boats (looks like zodiacs with a jet ski stuck in the middle) all at the same time and all out of the same dive shop that formerly just had to accomodate 6-12 divers.

I dove McDonalds, Tunnels, Ex-Chief Ministers, Aquarium, Finbar, Amphitheater, the Anchor, Coral Gardens, Rolling Hill and Black Forest. It was all nice, it was just not as good as Little Cayman, Cayman Brach or (pre-hurricane) Cozumel either in amount of sea life or size and abundance of soft corals. I don't know about post-hurrican Coz.

I admit it was bad luck on the luggage, but out of maybe 40 people who got off Spirit on GT, two couples were missing luggage and one other couple had half the stuff stolen out of one of their bags. The real problem was Spirit had no one on the island to follow up with lost luggage, and Sky King - who was supposed to take care of it - refused to do anything.

Finally, it may not be surprising the food is mediocre and expensive, but I still think it's worth pointing out that you are going to spend at least $100/day per couple if you eat at restaurants, especially if you are comparing GT to an all-inclusive somewhere.
 
This cruise ship stuff is going to be a mixed blessing for Everett and Dale at Oasis. They're going to make some serious money on Boat Days, but everything is going to be different there from now on.
Glad I got there when I did.
 
Sure hope my best diving isn't behind me. My first 2 dive trips outside the US were Little Cayman and Cayman Brac. Loved both - especially Bloody Bay Wall. Headed for Provo in 3 weeks.

Sorry to hear your trip sucked, but thanks for the trip report.
 
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