Welcome to ScubaBoard, an online scuba diving forum community where you can join over 205,000 divers from around the world discussing all things related to Scuba Diving. To gain full access to ScubaBoard (and make this large box go away) you must register for a free account. As a registered member you will be able to:
Participate in over 500 dive topic forums and browse from over 5,500,000 posts.
Communicate privately with other divers from around the world.
Post your own photos or view from well over 100,000 user submitted images.
Gain access to our free classifieds marketplace to buy, sell and trade gear, travel and services.
Use the calendar to organize your events and enroll in other members' events.
All this and much more is available to you absolutely free when you register for an account, so sign up today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact the ScubaBoard Support Team.
I spent some time with an AL80 to trim out my rig for vacation. 3mm shorty, AL backplate, harness, single tank adaptor, single tank adaptor weight (6lb), and 2 pounds in two small weight pockets. Trimed out perfect with 500psi in the tank.
Would a 6lb. steel BP trim out the same with fewer bits and bobs?
Herman and I dive pretty much the same way. I usually do not use a crotch strap, but with some plates I must. If the plate is wider than I am, then I need the crotch strap to keep my gear from riding up when I am inverted or on the surface. It's really a matter of personal fit. I would try it first, then if you find you need one, attach it. Personally, I am not a huge fan of using them when they are not required. I hate having my boys split by a piece of nylon.
My SS BP/W rig has a crotch strap. Sometimes I use it, sometimes I don't. Seems to be more useful for me when I'm diving dry. In a lightweight wet suit I do just fine with just the shoulder straps.
Here's an idea - try it and find out which way you prefer.
I dive moderate to absolute minimalist. I use both a stainless original Freedom Plate and one of the new aluminum Freedom plates. A standard plate will be much the same except for fit and feel, but buoyancy should be no different.
I use a crotch strap when I use my 1/2" wetsuit and a 40# Mach V. At depth the suit compresses enough that I have to offset the negative with enough air in the wing that it tends to pull the rig up pretty bad if I happen to get a little upright.
If I'm using my 7mm suit then I usually don't need the crotch strap unless I'm going deep, then I use an 18# Mach V with my 7 mil.
If I'm diving absolute minimalist with no wing then I never use a crotch strap.
I also only use steel tanks so that cures a lot of the problem with the negative weight characteristics of the tank. I haven't used aluminum tanks in years and have never used one on a freedom plate, so in that regard I'm not much help in knowing how bad the bottom of the tank will lift up. I'm guessing it would be negligable.
If you like steel then look for some used ones. I've found many great LP 72's and LP 95's around.
I agree, new HP's are pricey.
Tank
harness or plate
flippers
mask
knife
regulator (no octopus)
spg
weight belt as required
exposure gear as required
computer/gauge/watch, as required
Note that the aluminum tank is not lifting up, in warm water an aluminum tank is actually fine for swimsuit diving or minimal exposure gear. Your lungs are a perfectly good BC. My Faber steel would have been a better choice (with the Rubatex G231 5mm suit) but unfortunately they just don't seem to have any of those for rental/resort/out of country use.