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The edge guide I use is an old Buck Honemaster; long out of production as far as I can tell, but readily available on ebay.
As for the tanto blade; I have one on my work knife and I sharpen it as if it were a separate blade. I get the main edge where I want it and then hone the front edge.
Were I to replace my work knife it'd be with a non-tanto edge since the tanto is a pain in the butt! Call me old fashioned, but a normal everyday drop point without seration is my choice, although I certainly recognize the usefulness of the partially serated blades.
I use a very fine 3000/1000 grain water ceramic stone from Japan for the edge, for the bevel I use a diamond 700/400 course oil stone.
I finish with a leather strap and maintain with a ceramic steel.
The reason it rusts is it is not 100 percent titantum.
To sharpen the edge and maintain an edge you need a bevel to put the edge on.
The harder the metal the less blade will be lost. Over time your knife will loose metal with sharpening, it has to if you wish to make it sharpe. One knife I own used to be a 15ins chefs knife, now it is a 10ins non-turned boner.
I own the Deep See Squeeze Lock & Big Squeeze Tanto Tipped Titanium dive knives. They need sharpening.
Any suggestions on how to best sharpen them? I usually use a tri-hone stone for my regular steel knives - no oil needed.
Sharpen them gently with the least aggressive sharpener you can find. The body of the blade is Titanium which is fairly soft, The cutting edges are Titanium Nitride. It makes a good cutting edge, but if you grind a new edge too aggressively, you can cut through that nitride layer, and the keenness of that edge will be lost forever.