Attitude on St John

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Kharon

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Messages
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Location
Upstate NY
# of dives
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I've read many posts here that St Thomas is not the place to go if you are a white american (USA). That there's a ton of hostility and resentment. Also that there is a lot of crime in downtown areas. I'm wondering if St John has the same attitude toward tourists from USA and problems with crime. Any information would be appreciated.
 
I've only been to both places 2 times but never experienced anything unusual, but my visits were brief. Are you considering moving there or is this about a brief vacation?
 
Spent a week on St. John with family with transit through St. Thomas June 2012. St. Thomas seemed busier and dirtier and less laid back than St. John, but I did not dive or snorkel there so I can't comment on that aspect. I think its worth getting to St. John as soon as you can.

There were 8 of us and we rented a house out to the east by Haulover. We had two jeeps and shore snorkeled all week and did a sailing trip one day and a diving trip to BVI and Soggy Dollar one day. We did go to the grocery store for supplies a couple of times and that parking lot was hectic and people were being dumb (American tourists trying to park was hilarious). We ate out several places along the way and went to several snorkeling beaches throughout our trip. The only rude people were the other Americans, but even that was scarce.

If anything my complaint on St. John would be that they were TOO accommodating of American's food needs as everywhere had chicken fingers and burgers mostly with a bland fresh seafood of the day thrown in. Vie's snack shop and some of the other little places had better diversity in their options. I think St. John is the perfect place for newbie, hesitant or particular Americans as its basically a small, easy going, beautiful island with great snorkeling (by Caribbean standards). If anything its too "Americanized" for my taste for a vacation trip were I generally enjoy different food and culture, but I would definitely return there if I could not dive and was doing a Caribbean trip.

Based on snorkeling alone it is very unique and reminds me of Bonaire for diving due to the "snorkeling freedom". I was super disappointed with the diving there and would look elsewhere if that is your priority. Ive heard there can be some good diving in BVI and St. Thomas, but I would still skip those as well if diving is your prerogative as it seems there are much better places for diving in that budget/travel time range.
 
Mike - not moving, just a dive/vacation trip.

Diverjen - I will want to shore dive and maybe a boat dive. Looking more for some snorkeling as my wife doesn't dive. BTW, I'm not a newbie nor hesitant lol - Certified to SDI Solo and am used to traveling solo as well. My wife is a wee bit the nervous sort so looking for something that's not hostile (wouldn't bother me much as I can give as well as get - as long as there is no violence involved. Then I run.)
 
Oh I know you are not new - I have seen you around here before! :) What I am saying is that after my trip I was thinking of all of my friends and family who won't go to the Caribbean because its "scary" and have a fear of language and food issues. This is the perfect first place for them to try.

Its a beautiful island and your wife will love the snorkeling. We did not shore dive because of the logistics of being on the other side of the island of the dive ops and it being a family trip where every second spent not all together was not tolerated well. My Husband booked the 2 tank BVI trip on my actual birthday so we could have some time together and dive. The other divers on the boat had been shore diving St. John all week and commented the BVI boat dives were immensely better than the St. John shore dives they had done, but secondhand and YMMV. Those boat dives were fun for getting in the water and working on skills, but the reef and fish were pretty disappointing based on most of my snorkeling experiences in general and my limited dive experiences (63 on Bonaire). If you end up boat diving, try for the Rhone, we were supposed to go there but due to other divers on the boat it didn't happen (story of my boat diving life it seems...) and get a Vanilla Painkiller and share a hammock at Soggy Dollar on the way back, that was pretty sweet!

For snorkeling I highly recommend Waterlemon Cay, Cinnamon Bay, Haulover North (conditions can be rougher based on weather), and Brown Bay (if you are willing to hike a little it basically a conch farm, super cool). There were others we hit but those stick out as the ones we liked the best. I saw a ton of things snorkeling: blennies, octopus, eels, jawfish, rays, turtles, some bigger fish, some decent coral but not great. Others in our group say they saw some type of huge shark and a manta ray snorkeling which is not unheard of, but a lot of drinking and snorkeling was going on with that crowd, so grain of salt and all that....
 
Been working on St. T since July. Yes, there are attitudes, mostly I feel safe being a woman and alone. I'm also not stupid and stay out of certain areas day and night. St. John is lovely, far far nice. Very common to take the ferry from Red Hook over after work for dinner or drinks. Little isolated, off the beaten track and the roads on both islands scare me (blind curves, angles, switchbacks, drop offs). Like paved goat paths. Snorkeling is good - Waterlemon Cay is a favorite, bring water/snacks and wear sneakers for the 1/2 mile walk, it is over some rough rock patches. Do snorkel across the channel and around the rock. I also enjoy Trunk Bay for a day. Nice amenities - baths and showers all for couple bucks admission. The snorkel trail is pretty cool. Initially I thought touristy, but no. We've been in bait balls of silversides with big tarpon and jacks cruising below and cutting through. Awesome to watch. Found rays 20 feet offshore.

The diving I've done so far is pretty underwhelming. Mostly shallow, 60 foot, patch coral, stock marine critters but nothing in excess or exciting. Yes, the 6 foot Carib Reef shark at Ledges was sweet, the turtle nice, but they are 1 offs rather than typical. It isn't 100 foot walls or pinnacles like Cayman or Saba or 80 minute shore dives in Bonaire. That said I'm sure there is better diving, but working all week I have limited time and no friends who dive. Trying to figure out how I can get over to dive the Rhone.

Did an island hop with friends a couple weeks back - The Baths at Virgin Gorda, lunch in Tortola, snorkel at Monkey Point (Guana Island), sun and drinks at Jost van Dyke (Soggy Dollar Bar). It gets crowded on weekends, but mid-weeks are quiet. Do remember to bring your passport! While St. Thomas and John do not require them, the BVI's do.
 
Well we're all set. Going to fly into St. Thomas, rent a car at the airport, stop at a market and stock up on food and take the ferry across. Got a nice apartment and loads of url's for snorkeling & hiking. I also ordered the book St. John Off The Beaten Track. I'm very excited and so is my wife. I do love snorkeling and am so looking forward to the freedom from tanks, weights, my pony, the BC, etc. The only diving thing I am bringing is my sausage with enough weight to keep it verticle (or nearly). Don't know if I can rent a dive flag and hope that will suffice. Now comes the hardest part. Waiting for the flight. :banghead:
 
Oh yes - I forgot - no NDN and no surface interval. lol
 
Kharon - enjoy your trip! Not sure which ferry you're taking, but if you are heading to Red Hook, there is a new grocery store almost directly across from Terminal. Moe's Grocery, while small, has great selection and decent pricing. I agree there are days I'd just rather snorkel.

Last Saturday got home from work around 4:00 decided to jump in for a snorkel, water was like a lake - glass flat. Middle of the bay I find 2 large sea turtles munching eel grass, one had a remora that had to be 4 foot long (bigger than turtle). Watched them swim, eat and surface for a bit. Then saw a large spotted eagle ray swoop by. Baby nurse shark off in the distance. Headed to the edge of the bay to check out the 'pretty fish' in the shallows and saw a large squadron of squid (I was thinking fried calamari!) Hung around the reef watching fish for a bit, all told 90 minute snorkel trip, no heavy gear, no cost and right out my door.
 
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