I was up late and one thing led to another... I ordered this
www.divetimeidaho.com/custom-light/
Hope to give a happy review next week!
www.divetimeidaho.com/custom-light/
Hope to give a happy review next week!
Impulse purchase- Dive Time
- Thread starter antattack
- Start date
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OP
OK, First impressions are important.
I ordered the light Saturday night and received an email confirming Sunday Night. On Monday morning I got a message confirming shipment and a tracking number.
The light arrived today, well packaged in a new box, complete with instructions and a little package of water proof grease.
The light itself has a high quality cable that is permanently attached to the battery canister and the light head. The battery canister seems to be made of PVC parts from the garden shop and epoxied into a permanent configuration, but that kind of makes sense at this price point. Handwritten on the battery tube are the words "GEN II". The closure at the bottom end has a rubber compression stopper, where the rubber expands laterally when a wing nut is turned, squeezing a washer on the outside with a washer on the inside. The rubber stopper is greased. The stopper will not get lost as it is soldered to a wire that runs from the battery spring on the stopper to the cable end of the battery canister.
On the outside of the battery cannister are a pair of stainless steel straps that hold a bit of webbing sufficient to keep the battery canister on your wings belt. Nothing fancy, quite practical, should work with the DIR philosophy.
The light head is also some kind of high impact plastic with a bezel that originally twisted on, but has been epoxied closed. The light head comes permanently attached to a high quality aluminum goodman handle. The handle is adjustable and has a small brass bolt snap attached with cave line. The goodman handle has a platform with lots of mounting options, but the light head is permanently epoxied to the handle. Kind of odd, but OK.
The light head has five LEDs set in a nicely reflector.
Inside the battery pack is a plastic tube that allows the battery holder to be used with 5 C cell batteries or as 4 D Cells.
The question that begs to be answered is "Can I use rechargeable batteries?" The light head is rated for use with a maximum of 8.4W. 5 C cells will give a peak of 7.5W, four Ds will give a max of 6W. I'm pretty sure the light head will stop producing light around 4W. So if I simply switch to NimH batteries in the same form factor, I can get to 6W in C sells or 4.8 in D cell sizes. I'll have to research other options.
The light head clearly says that I shouldn't power the light up with out immersing in water, so there may not be much in the way of heat sink capacity out side of water. Too bad the light head is epoxied closed, or I might just be able to figure something out there.
Over all, it seems like a robust, well designed piece of equipment, even if it has been sort of home manufactured. Ellis Fitler, the manufacturer seems to be very thoughtful. He was VERY prompt and professional about fulfilling my order and his web site says that he will repair any of his lights that fail. At small scale, this should be an easy promise to keep, because the item looks well built.
I'll power the thing up on a dive this weekend and let you know how it works.
I ordered the light Saturday night and received an email confirming Sunday Night. On Monday morning I got a message confirming shipment and a tracking number.
The light arrived today, well packaged in a new box, complete with instructions and a little package of water proof grease.
The light itself has a high quality cable that is permanently attached to the battery canister and the light head. The battery canister seems to be made of PVC parts from the garden shop and epoxied into a permanent configuration, but that kind of makes sense at this price point. Handwritten on the battery tube are the words "GEN II". The closure at the bottom end has a rubber compression stopper, where the rubber expands laterally when a wing nut is turned, squeezing a washer on the outside with a washer on the inside. The rubber stopper is greased. The stopper will not get lost as it is soldered to a wire that runs from the battery spring on the stopper to the cable end of the battery canister.
On the outside of the battery cannister are a pair of stainless steel straps that hold a bit of webbing sufficient to keep the battery canister on your wings belt. Nothing fancy, quite practical, should work with the DIR philosophy.
The light head is also some kind of high impact plastic with a bezel that originally twisted on, but has been epoxied closed. The light head comes permanently attached to a high quality aluminum goodman handle. The handle is adjustable and has a small brass bolt snap attached with cave line. The goodman handle has a platform with lots of mounting options, but the light head is permanently epoxied to the handle. Kind of odd, but OK.
The light head has five LEDs set in a nicely reflector.
Inside the battery pack is a plastic tube that allows the battery holder to be used with 5 C cell batteries or as 4 D Cells.
The question that begs to be answered is "Can I use rechargeable batteries?" The light head is rated for use with a maximum of 8.4W. 5 C cells will give a peak of 7.5W, four Ds will give a max of 6W. I'm pretty sure the light head will stop producing light around 4W. So if I simply switch to NimH batteries in the same form factor, I can get to 6W in C sells or 4.8 in D cell sizes. I'll have to research other options.
The light head clearly says that I shouldn't power the light up with out immersing in water, so there may not be much in the way of heat sink capacity out side of water. Too bad the light head is epoxied closed, or I might just be able to figure something out there.
Over all, it seems like a robust, well designed piece of equipment, even if it has been sort of home manufactured. Ellis Fitler, the manufacturer seems to be very thoughtful. He was VERY prompt and professional about fulfilling my order and his web site says that he will repair any of his lights that fail. At small scale, this should be an easy promise to keep, because the item looks well built.
I'll power the thing up on a dive this weekend and let you know how it works.
lucca brassi
Contributor
Normal bateries (alkaline) have each 1,5V per cell . It is difference between 5 C cell batteries or as 4 D Cells (7,5V vs 6V) ( main difference between C and D is capacity in mAh which gives you burning time )
NiMH have 1,25 each per cell ; that mean 6,25V vs 5,0V (on a straight section of the discharge curve BTW)
well that module have integrated constant current circuit
5*Cree R2 5-Mode 1200-Lumen White Light Drop-in LED Module (52.7mm*42mm/8.4V Max) - Free Shipping - DealExtreme
and consumption on that module is probably like that P=U * I * (driver effciency).
It is possible that have some mode swiched off.
I have similar module with 3 leds and I have driven I also with arround 12W.
So yours MAX input voltage is 8V
OP
Yep Lucca, your math is spot on. I quoted 8.4 volts because the supplier says about his lamp module when it is sold as a DIY unit:
"1200 LUMEN LED MODULE 5 MOD. LOW,MED,HIGH,SOS SLOW FLASH, STROB FAST FLASH. THIS IS WHAT DIY LIGHT BUILDERS THAT WANT TO ADJUST THE POWER OUTPUT TO THE MODULE ARE USING. THIS MODULE HAS BEEN TESTED AND LIGHTS UP AND IS VERY BRIGHT, IT IS A 8.4 VOLT MAX"
So, 8.0V is probably right, it probably starts to blow up at 8.4v
Regardless, if I start looking to use rechargable batteries, I have some room to play. For now, using C cells the thing should be brightest, using D cells, parhaps a longer burn. I'll test it with C and D cells for a few dives before playing with rechargables.
Oh, one more thing. The light is actuated by a rubber encased toggle switch. It is enabled only with one mode: ON This is just fine and in keeping with my theme of keeping things simple.
"1200 LUMEN LED MODULE 5 MOD. LOW,MED,HIGH,SOS SLOW FLASH, STROB FAST FLASH. THIS IS WHAT DIY LIGHT BUILDERS THAT WANT TO ADJUST THE POWER OUTPUT TO THE MODULE ARE USING. THIS MODULE HAS BEEN TESTED AND LIGHTS UP AND IS VERY BRIGHT, IT IS A 8.4 VOLT MAX"
So, 8.0V is probably right, it probably starts to blow up at 8.4v
Regardless, if I start looking to use rechargable batteries, I have some room to play. For now, using C cells the thing should be brightest, using D cells, parhaps a longer burn. I'll test it with C and D cells for a few dives before playing with rechargables.
Oh, one more thing. The light is actuated by a rubber encased toggle switch. It is enabled only with one mode: ON This is just fine and in keeping with my theme of keeping things simple.
lucca brassi
Contributor
NO !
Using different voltages would affect on DRIVER STABILITY inside normaly is that seen by flickering if there is not enough energy . Output formula is P=I**2 x R ( R is in that way PN resistance of diode and rises with temperature , I mean different 5 modes- different current through leds in series )
I think the best way for you is stable voltage and current better lower with higher capacity 4D with 10000mAh
OP
Thanks Lucca! I hadn't considered the importance of voltage stability as it relates to the driver. Great stuff. I will wind up testing this weekend, so I'm really excited to see what works best.
Eventually I would like to find some high capacity, rechargeable batteries that fit in the 4xD cell canister. But if that doesn't work out, C and D cells are available everywhere in the world.
Cheers
Gary
---------- Post Merged on July 27th, 2012 at 09:57 AM ---------- Previous Post was on July 26th, 2012 at 03:18 PM ----------
So, I think I understand what you are saying Lucca.
Four D cells have higher capacity than 5 C cells- more mAh. While four D cells deliver less voltage than five C cells is less important than their ability to deliver current over time. That's the stability issue you mentioned- right?
If I understand correctly, the driver board will take care of the voltage as long as I have ENOUGH voltage for the required current draw. So if I have a choice, D Cells will work better for a longer period of time.
Thanks for helping me understand this.
---------- Post Merged on July 27th, 2012 at 10:00 AM ---------- Previous Post was on July 26th, 2012 at 03:18 PM ----------
Ahh! Now your pictures make sense. You where showing that as voltage drops, current draw increases. And I'm guessing that this is an actual measurment from a flashlight as the batteries depleted. I get it. You just showed me the role of the driver board. I was thinking of the role of the driver board as that of a simple resister- something to limit current. But it is a voltage regulator.
---------- Post Merged on July 27th, 2012 at 10:02 AM ---------- Previous Post was on July 26th, 2012 at 03:18 PM ----------
I didn't build my own flashlight because I thought I didn't have time to get back into electronics. P=I*E. I'm getting sucked in.
Eventually I would like to find some high capacity, rechargeable batteries that fit in the 4xD cell canister. But if that doesn't work out, C and D cells are available everywhere in the world.
Cheers
Gary
---------- Post Merged on July 27th, 2012 at 09:57 AM ---------- Previous Post was on July 26th, 2012 at 03:18 PM ----------
So, I think I understand what you are saying Lucca.
Four D cells have higher capacity than 5 C cells- more mAh. While four D cells deliver less voltage than five C cells is less important than their ability to deliver current over time. That's the stability issue you mentioned- right?
If I understand correctly, the driver board will take care of the voltage as long as I have ENOUGH voltage for the required current draw. So if I have a choice, D Cells will work better for a longer period of time.
Thanks for helping me understand this.
---------- Post Merged on July 27th, 2012 at 10:00 AM ---------- Previous Post was on July 26th, 2012 at 03:18 PM ----------
Ahh! Now your pictures make sense. You where showing that as voltage drops, current draw increases. And I'm guessing that this is an actual measurment from a flashlight as the batteries depleted. I get it. You just showed me the role of the driver board. I was thinking of the role of the driver board as that of a simple resister- something to limit current. But it is a voltage regulator.
---------- Post Merged on July 27th, 2012 at 10:02 AM ---------- Previous Post was on July 26th, 2012 at 03:18 PM ----------
I didn't build my own flashlight because I thought I didn't have time to get back into electronics. P=I*E. I'm getting sucked in.
OP
Good news, the flashlight survived a very easy dive to 35fsw where visibility was about 10' in Monterey on Sunday. Not a great test, but the light survived just fine. Next weekend I'm doing a mapping project in waters that have 1-5' of visibility, so we'll see how well the light penetrates the murk under the Santa Cruz Municipal wharf. Sadly, I don't have a HID to compare it to, but I'll let you know how it goes just the same. I have some wreck dives at 100' coming up in September, where I'll really give the light a good test.
So far- good value for the money!
So far- good value for the money!
OP
Update- The light has been on about ten dives thus far, including a nite dive on the Yukon down in San Diego. The light has been to 130 feet, and I've done daytime wreck penetrations. The light works GREAT!
When the batteries run low, the light blinks. At first, it blinks about once a minute, then more frequently as the batteries run down. I get about 90 minutes of burn time using D cells.
A couple of challenges. The stopper at the bottom of the canister opens with a wing nut. This might be an entanglement hazard. Also, if you need to change batteries on a boat after the first dive, it's a real challenge feeding the batteries up from the bottom of the canister when it's still attached to your wing. Finally, the aluminum goodman handle is adjustable and very comfortable. It is attached to the plastic light head with a big round metal fitting. It looks like a metal disk with a post in the middle that goes through the goodman handle to the light head. The metal disk part is epoxied into the goodman handle and the light head, so it is permanent. The challenge is that it is high carbon iron and it rusts. A lot.
Given the performance and the price, I expect to be able to use the light for a good long time. I continue to be satisfied.
When the batteries run low, the light blinks. At first, it blinks about once a minute, then more frequently as the batteries run down. I get about 90 minutes of burn time using D cells.
A couple of challenges. The stopper at the bottom of the canister opens with a wing nut. This might be an entanglement hazard. Also, if you need to change batteries on a boat after the first dive, it's a real challenge feeding the batteries up from the bottom of the canister when it's still attached to your wing. Finally, the aluminum goodman handle is adjustable and very comfortable. It is attached to the plastic light head with a big round metal fitting. It looks like a metal disk with a post in the middle that goes through the goodman handle to the light head. The metal disk part is epoxied into the goodman handle and the light head, so it is permanent. The challenge is that it is high carbon iron and it rusts. A lot.
Given the performance and the price, I expect to be able to use the light for a good long time. I continue to be satisfied.
DazedAndConfuzed
Contributor
wasn't this light the same one that was made from garden lighting head and alot of other DIY components?
OP
It does look DIY. But I have eight dives with it, two to 130'. It hasn't failed me and it is very bright. It is also inexpensive to operate. The goodman handle is comfortable.
Thus far, I'd rate it effective, reliable and affordable.
Thus far, I'd rate it effective, reliable and affordable.
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