Star Dancer, Papua New Guinea trip report

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ewaiea

Contributor
Messages
320
Reaction score
12
Location
Minnesota (USA)
# of dives
200 - 499
I'm writing this from the Airways Hotel (which if you splurge one night on a hotel stay there you will be impressed) in Port Moresby - I got my 24 hours of travel tomorrow morning to get home to Honolulu.

Synopsis:
Overall the trip was a huge success! I have never tripped down to the south Pacific before so this was a first. I loved the Star Dancer, I didn't mind the long travel as long as you overnight one place on the way, I am tempted to return next year for the south coast of New Britain Island charter, but most likely I'll go to Palau instead.

One quick note - I roomed with a guy who simply did this trip because it was a good deal b/c it was buddy week plus he had miles to use for airfare. But all he did was bitch and squak about there not being wrecks or big stuff......after a while he got on everyone's nerves with his sarcastic complaining. DO NOT DO THIS TRIP IF YOU ONLY LIKE TECH DIVING AND/OR BIG STUFF! You might see big stuff and there is a couple of wrecks in Rabaul, but not like other places. Don't be this guy - it was a chore to listen to the constant negative remarks not to mention his insistence on solo diving and unsafe practices (he secretly snuck a dive where he solo'd down do 201ft - he told me after the fact)......again - don't be this guy.

Getting there:
My route was Honolulu-Sydney-Cairns-Port Moresby-Hoskins. I flew Jetstar from Honolulu to Sydney and they offered a last minute upgrade to Star Class (basically it's business class) for $299 - it was so worth it....I hope they offer it on the way back. Our flight from Port Moresby to Hoskins was cancelled last minute - no one was totally certain why. The airline told us the plane would be late and could not do an evening or night landing in Hoskins because there was no light. The more accepted reason is the flight was not full enough so Air Niugini combined the next morning's passengers with us and probably saved money - apparently they do this all the time. So we didn't get to stay the night in Walindi - Air Niugini put us up at the Lamana Hotel in Port Moresby - it's safe, there's air conditioning in the rooms, but that's about it - it was a very boring hotel. We flew out early the next morning and were able to get to Walindi for breakfast at 7:30am. I didn't get a refund on my Walindi room reservation but I did get to use it for the morning to have a nap and relax so it wasn't a total loss. All my luggage made it and was not lost on the trip in.
-A few of us Star Dancer passengers did a quick day boat trip with Walindi as a checkout dive - I went along as a snorkeler to do some free diving. It was fun and a short boat ride from the resort.

The diving in PNG:
In short, the diving will come in two forms: bommies (seamounts), and muck diving. We dove Kimbe Bay for the first day and last day and a half of the charter, we did three days diving at Witu Island on days 2, 3, and 4, and 3 days of diving at Fathers Reef after that.

All three places have muck diving and bommies, but the Witus has probably got the biggest mix with Witu Crater being my favorite muck dive and perhaps my favorite dive on the trip.

Father's has a bit more shark and other pelagic action with Kimbe being a hybrid of Witu and Fathers.

I brought a 1mm wetsuit but only wore it on like 5 dives (most of which were night dives or shark dives) - otherwise I did my dives in a rash guard and swim trunks. Water temps were around 86 or higher.

The Star Dancer:
They had a great dive schedule with dive one before breakfast (they do have a continental breakfast laid out before the dive though), then breakfast, then dive two and three, lunch, then dive four, then the night dive, then dinner. Five dives a day was pretty much the norm except one day where we had an overnight crossing planned so we only did four dives.

I thought the crew was superb, Joe and Martin and Yuki(videopro) are the three dive guides - Martin and Joe primarily. They all have eagle eyes and will show you so much more than you can probably spot on your own.

The food was good but with all the palm oil they used for cooking plus the snacking and the relatively easy diving me and most other divers did put on a few pounds this trip - I probably gained 8 or 9 lbs alone! I've done the Kona Aggressor and I will say that the food on that boat was better by a small margin.

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I think that Peter Hughes Diving is a great company and I'll be definitely repeating trips with them in the future - they truly do EVERYTHING for you - they even helped me do some gear repairs which helped me out tremendously.

I know some of you probably have specific questions so feel free to ask - I'll respond.

Thanks all and if you're a critter hound definitely go to Papua New Guinea.

Eric
 
Glad to hear the trip seemed to have worked out, Ewaiea.

I'd be interested in a bit more specifics on the dive sites. Like what sort of muck are we talking: tires and trash or just mud bottom?

My interest would be in the action spots, though I like all the critters from inner space. How were some of the action spots. Lots of current? Mantas? What kind of sharks did you see?

oh and 210 ft: idiots like this like to waste your trip taking them to the chamber.
 
Yeah, 200ft+ ---> need I say more? I wanted to free dive during the trip but I didn't do it after scuba diving. It's not just my health that I'm risking, it's the rest of the guest's vacation as well. This guy just didn't think like that.

Most of the sharks we saw were white tip reef sharks and silvertip sharks as well.

The muck dives were on black sand in and around volcanic crater in the Witu Island. Wiray Bay, Dickey's Place, and Witu Crater were the notable muck sites. Usually the site would be in about 25ft of water and would gently slope off to much deeper on about a 30 degree slope. We would find all sorts of different crabs, shrimp, anemones, there would be waste material such as rocky rubble, drift wood, and more and more black sand.

There was some current around the bommies but only one site had ripping current but even that was only the top 20ft. The diving was quite easy - hence why I gained about 8 or 9 pounds.

The shark sites (2 feeding sites - one in Kimbe Bay and one at Father's Reef) had about 7 or 8 sharks show up - a combination of silvertips and whitetips. Gray reef sharks also will show up as well.

We also saw lots of schooling horse eye jacks, schooling barracuda, and millions of anthias colorfully dotting the water column.

The sites did kind of run together throughout the charter and hence I skipped a few dives after I'd hit one site once - I enjoyed my time at sunset on the sundeck since afterall it was my vacation! :)

I did about 4 night dives - I sat out a total of about 4 or 5 dives throughout the trip but that was okay. We did have some die hards on the trip who didn't miss a dive. One even stayed at Walindi after the trip to do more boat diving - she even did some Walindi boat diving before the trip. This gal could sock away the dives - she logged her 700th on this trip. Lots of awesome people on this trip.

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One more thing that should be noted, the nitrox was free on this trip because we never got much above 27% most of the charter. But thanks to fleet captain Ben who was onboard doing an inspection this trip - he worked tirelessly day and night to eventually figure the system had to be replaced. But by the last couple days the system was fixed (somehow - I have no way to explain it though) and I was getting 32%. This should be corrected very soon I'm sure - the boat is WELL aware of it as is the front office. This didn't wreck my trip.

One more remark on the food - the kitchen staff is also the stewards - except for the head chef. They hire pretty much local help - keep in mind one or two of the girls are new and they could stand to shower a bit more often - but body odar is something commonplace in PNG - it wasn't a huge deal but was something my critical eye noticed. I would prefer probably prefer a chef from the US or Europe just because the food was a bit oily. I'm not into extremely oily food but again, it wasn't bad - we're talking about a B+ menu versus the A menu on the Kona Aggressor.

The sit down menu is something I prefer, but the disadvantage is not being able to pick and choose what you eat for dinner. I don't think dining is a huge deal - but it's something I find one of the most fun aspects. So the Kona Aggressor edged out on food, but the Peter Hughes Star Dancer wins out on wine selection as well as dive schedule which allows you to enjoy a glass with dinner with or without the night dive. Both companies have some differences but as it's been said - either one is a can't miss.

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Next February or March I'll probably be going to Palau and I would say the Palau Aggressor II will most likely get my business because of the longevity in the area. Peter Hughes is starting a nearly identical boat in Palau called the Tropic Dancer - it'll be run by a husband/wife team I understand. I'm sure that'll be a great boat too and I'm not going to agonize too much, but I'll probably go with the boat that's been longer.

Boy oh boy, does liveaboard diving rock or what??
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=14141&id=1696541502
I'm not sure if this link will work, but it's my facebook link with a few star dancer photos from last week - I know it's not a lot but the diver photos of me were taken by the captain and the rest were taken by me.
 
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Nice shots, I was excited for you to give a trip report. I did not miss any dives on my trip. I would love to go back but with the current economy it'll never happen. At least I get to live through other divers like you who give their trip reports and photos.
 
Thanks for the feedback, Ewaiea.

Interesting info. Interesting that most of the sites were non-current sites in contrast to my Raja Ampat experience.

RE: Palau - I did the Explorer boats back in 2005 and had a fantastic time. Keep in mind that everybody does most of the same sites here so it's not nearly as important to have experience as it is in the multi-island location like PNG or Indo. Keep a thought for Komodo in the future.
 
Komodo is definitely on my to-do list but probably not for a few trips.

Next Feb or so I'll try for the Palau Aggressor, then I think I'll go do either Cocos Island or Fiji the following year. I'm not a big animal diver much so Cocos and/or Galapagos is a serious maybe but I think it could be cool nonetheless.

Thanks to everyone over the last year who has given me sooooo much useful advice prior to my travel. Just know that the Peter Hughes Star Dancer gets my mark of approval as an outstanding liveaboard as does PNG as without a doubt the greatest diving I've ever done - I want to do the south coast of New Britain one of these days but I have a few other destinations on my radar first.
 
Eric Williamson | Facebook

If you have access to facebook see if you can check out my trip video....the first segment is a little over 18 minutes then the next is 4 minutes or thereabouts. If it stops part way through just restart it from where it left off.
 
Next February or March I'll probably be going to Palau and I would say the Palau Aggressor II will most likely get my business because of the longevity in the area. Peter Hughes is starting a nearly identical boat in Palau called the Tropic Dancer - it'll be run by a husband/wife team I understand. I'm sure that'll be a great boat too and I'm not going to agonize too much, but I'll probably go with the boat that's been longer.
The Palau Aggressor was a great trip. Food was excellent, though the wine was lousy ("Rock Island" wine made in Palau from concentrate imported from elsewhere, and "Two Buck Chuck" i.e. Charles Shaw wine from Trader Joe's; but they have several types of local tasty Red Rooster microbrew on tap, if you can stand all the foam that kegs on a rocking boat can produce).
 
Nice trip report.....I was on the Star Dancer in Nov. of 2004 and dove the same area you went to. Wonderful diving and boat.....I'm looking forward to returning to that part of the world next Dec. on the Komodo Dancer.

Port Moresby did remind me of a minimum security prison, though....!
 

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