mantajohn
Contributor
After really enjoying Cocos 18 months ago, we decided to return to the eastern pacific on Rocio del Mar this May. It's a long trip from UK, but did not disappoint.
We boarded RDM shortly after 0830 and departed for Socorro Islands a couple of hours later. Over 24 hours full throttle meant we did our first dive at 1345 the next day.
The next few days forecast was for a lively sea state, so we went straight to 'El Boiler' for what must be my best 'check dive' ever. Large mantas throughout the dive. A pair of very black oceanic mantas plus some chevron mantas with beautiful markings. It amazed me how close they came. Pelagics are often seen through hazy viz and strong current. These were so close to us that we repeatedly had to get out of their way! They would head straight for a diver then divert at the very last moment. Such a great dive, we repeated it before dinner. More mantas, Galapagos sharks, silkies and a hammerhead.
Overnight we transited to Roca Partida. Again, due to its exposed location, the crew wanted to bank it whilst the sea state was acceptable. More amazing dives. After over 650 dives I got to dive with dolphins for the first time today. Worth the long journey just for these dives. Roca Partida is a wonderful site. Large shoals of jacks and many sharks.
Overnight transit to Socorro. 3 dives today - more dolphins!
The second dive they were like buddies. We were a group of 8 divers and a pod of 8 dolphins joined us straight after that backward roll and stayed with us right to the safety stop. Again, I was struck by how close and interactive they were. Quite a few times, one dolphin would come really close then flip over onto its back into a 'tickle my tummy' pose. At the safety stop, one went vertical and mirrored my buddy. Even blowing bubbles. Then with a flick of its tail, it surfaced and leapt clear of the water before rejoining my buddy at the safety stop. Breathtaking. It was as if it was saying I can do your safety stop trick bet you cant do my leap out of the water trick!
RDM has two ways of making the zodiac transfer. In regular seas, it simply moors up alongside. In heavier seas, they 'beach' the zodiac on the swim deck. Returning from our second dive, the sea state was quite lively. They tried to beach the zodiac on the swim deck, but hit the side of the boat and shipped a large amount of water. Rather than make a second attempt, they had a plan we finned up and rolled into the water. The plan was to fin for the RDM and body surf a suitable wave straight onto the swim deck, where a crew member would grab us. Great fun.
A wonderful day with more mantas and some great silver tips.
After breakfast on diving day 4, the captain informed us that hurricane Amanda had formed and was heading our way. A cat 5 hurricane, a liveaboard and the open pacific would not be a great combination, so the trip was abandoned and we hunkered down for the near 40 hour full throttle trip to outrun the hurricane. Turned out to be a good call as Hurricane Amanda did reach Socorro with some impressive wind speeds & wave heights reported.
The trip back to the mainland was pretty subdued. A combination of disappointment at the holiday being cut short at just 9 dives (UK£400 per dive!); apprehension would we succeed in outrunning the hurricane; and finally would we be dumped back in the rather drab hotel at Cabo for 3 days to await our flights home.
The crew of RDM were impressive; they took us to the Sea of Cortez to make it an unexpected 2 destination combo holiday, with 6 or 8 more dives according to the timing of your homeward flight.
These extra dives were a real tonic featuring some wonderful sea lion encounters but the highlight were the bull sharks at Cabo Pulmo National Park. I had no prior knowledge of bull sharks, but can now vouch for the fact that they are very curious, attentive & like to check you out repeatedly from very close range. Fortunately, I did not discover their tell-tale unpredictability!
We knelt near the garden eels @ 20m and within minutes 3 bull sharks arrived. They came within 3m swam away and then reappeared from behind. Repeating this behaviour for about 30 mins. They are very inquisitive. 2 of them decided to circle us throughout the safety stop. I have to admit that we formed a tighter group than was the norm for our previous safety stops. Also, whereas previously we had been a slow, clumsy group in de-kitting and re-boarding the zodiac, at the conclusion of this particular dive, we performed this task with the speed & precision of a Formula 1 pit crew!
A great trip Im very tempted to return next year.
Some practicalities:
I booked the trip through Kim at Scuba Tours Worldwide. She was friendly, knowledgeable, efficient & very helpful. I would happily book with her/STW again.
Flights BA/AA via Dallas worked fine.
Stopover hotel in Cabo was Posada Real Id make a different choice next time.
Rocio Del Mar:
* Fantastic crew, worked as a team, tirelessly to give us the best possible trip.
* Really good quality & large zodiacs.
* Stable passage outboard stabilisers used throughout the voyage.
* Good wholesome food. Free cold beer. Unlimited free wine which unfortunately was cheap Italian. I expected S American/Californian & a little less rustic!
* The cabins are on the main deck with large windows that open. This was a real plus for the long crossings, but meant that the dining room was on the lower deck and had a slightly below the water line feel about it, which some guests did not enjoy.
We boarded RDM shortly after 0830 and departed for Socorro Islands a couple of hours later. Over 24 hours full throttle meant we did our first dive at 1345 the next day.
The next few days forecast was for a lively sea state, so we went straight to 'El Boiler' for what must be my best 'check dive' ever. Large mantas throughout the dive. A pair of very black oceanic mantas plus some chevron mantas with beautiful markings. It amazed me how close they came. Pelagics are often seen through hazy viz and strong current. These were so close to us that we repeatedly had to get out of their way! They would head straight for a diver then divert at the very last moment. Such a great dive, we repeated it before dinner. More mantas, Galapagos sharks, silkies and a hammerhead.
Overnight we transited to Roca Partida. Again, due to its exposed location, the crew wanted to bank it whilst the sea state was acceptable. More amazing dives. After over 650 dives I got to dive with dolphins for the first time today. Worth the long journey just for these dives. Roca Partida is a wonderful site. Large shoals of jacks and many sharks.
Overnight transit to Socorro. 3 dives today - more dolphins!
The second dive they were like buddies. We were a group of 8 divers and a pod of 8 dolphins joined us straight after that backward roll and stayed with us right to the safety stop. Again, I was struck by how close and interactive they were. Quite a few times, one dolphin would come really close then flip over onto its back into a 'tickle my tummy' pose. At the safety stop, one went vertical and mirrored my buddy. Even blowing bubbles. Then with a flick of its tail, it surfaced and leapt clear of the water before rejoining my buddy at the safety stop. Breathtaking. It was as if it was saying I can do your safety stop trick bet you cant do my leap out of the water trick!
RDM has two ways of making the zodiac transfer. In regular seas, it simply moors up alongside. In heavier seas, they 'beach' the zodiac on the swim deck. Returning from our second dive, the sea state was quite lively. They tried to beach the zodiac on the swim deck, but hit the side of the boat and shipped a large amount of water. Rather than make a second attempt, they had a plan we finned up and rolled into the water. The plan was to fin for the RDM and body surf a suitable wave straight onto the swim deck, where a crew member would grab us. Great fun.
A wonderful day with more mantas and some great silver tips.
After breakfast on diving day 4, the captain informed us that hurricane Amanda had formed and was heading our way. A cat 5 hurricane, a liveaboard and the open pacific would not be a great combination, so the trip was abandoned and we hunkered down for the near 40 hour full throttle trip to outrun the hurricane. Turned out to be a good call as Hurricane Amanda did reach Socorro with some impressive wind speeds & wave heights reported.
The trip back to the mainland was pretty subdued. A combination of disappointment at the holiday being cut short at just 9 dives (UK£400 per dive!); apprehension would we succeed in outrunning the hurricane; and finally would we be dumped back in the rather drab hotel at Cabo for 3 days to await our flights home.
The crew of RDM were impressive; they took us to the Sea of Cortez to make it an unexpected 2 destination combo holiday, with 6 or 8 more dives according to the timing of your homeward flight.
These extra dives were a real tonic featuring some wonderful sea lion encounters but the highlight were the bull sharks at Cabo Pulmo National Park. I had no prior knowledge of bull sharks, but can now vouch for the fact that they are very curious, attentive & like to check you out repeatedly from very close range. Fortunately, I did not discover their tell-tale unpredictability!
We knelt near the garden eels @ 20m and within minutes 3 bull sharks arrived. They came within 3m swam away and then reappeared from behind. Repeating this behaviour for about 30 mins. They are very inquisitive. 2 of them decided to circle us throughout the safety stop. I have to admit that we formed a tighter group than was the norm for our previous safety stops. Also, whereas previously we had been a slow, clumsy group in de-kitting and re-boarding the zodiac, at the conclusion of this particular dive, we performed this task with the speed & precision of a Formula 1 pit crew!
A great trip Im very tempted to return next year.
Some practicalities:
I booked the trip through Kim at Scuba Tours Worldwide. She was friendly, knowledgeable, efficient & very helpful. I would happily book with her/STW again.
Flights BA/AA via Dallas worked fine.
Stopover hotel in Cabo was Posada Real Id make a different choice next time.
Rocio Del Mar:
* Fantastic crew, worked as a team, tirelessly to give us the best possible trip.
* Really good quality & large zodiacs.
* Stable passage outboard stabilisers used throughout the voyage.
* Good wholesome food. Free cold beer. Unlimited free wine which unfortunately was cheap Italian. I expected S American/Californian & a little less rustic!
* The cabins are on the main deck with large windows that open. This was a real plus for the long crossings, but meant that the dining room was on the lower deck and had a slightly below the water line feel about it, which some guests did not enjoy.
