Tips for webbing your own harness

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lowviz

Solo Diver
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Looks like a lot of divers are currently re-webbing harnesses. I found this to be a frustrating task the first time I tried it. Done it many times, got better at it with each try. I'll share my tips. Please add yours...

The Malco sheet metal tool (Home Depot) is the very best thing that I have found for finishing the melted edge of nylon webbing. Use a CIGAR lighter to melt the frayed edge then squeeze with the tool. If you just melt the edge it will cool and harden wider than the webbing and you will really work at getting it through double slots. Use a pair of needle-nose pliers to "roll" the inside loops when you are tightening everything up. The pin (or an awl with a very rounded end) is great for loosening / repositioning webbing.

WebbingTools.jpg

Note the two "depth-compensating" buckles, the slot pattern is different. Shown is the way to web a three slot buckle. It isn't immediately obvious if you have never done this yourself.

Triglides come in two common styles, single-wide slot with teeth and double-wide slot with no teeth. Use the ones with teeth for keeping hard weights on a weight belt, use the other triglides as shown below:

DoubleWideGlide.jpg

Above is a D-ring on a pentagonal ring (for a chest strap). I don't use that config any more...
 
Sheet metal tool worked great (and I already had one). No more struggling to get the webbing through the buckle.
 
Weller 100/140-Watt Soldering Gun Kit-8200PKS at The Home Depot
Something like this with a rope cutter below
Weller Soldering / Desoldering Tips & Cartridges - 1.66 in Tip Length - 1.385 in Tip Width - RCT [PRICE is per EACH] - Power Soldering Accessories - Amazon.com

This setup works much easier since it takes care of both ends at the same time. I haven't found one wide enough to go straight down through 2" but the one inch works well if you fold the webbing in half and go down through the bent bit or just go across the width
 
The Malco sheet metal tool (Home Depot) is the very best thing that I have found for finishing the melted edge of nylon webbing. Use a CIGAR lighter to melt the frayed edge then squeeze with the tool. If you just melt the edge it will cool and harden wider than the webbing and you will really work at getting it through double slots.

Is the tool a hand seamer? That tool seems to cost in the $25 to $50 range on Amazon, a substantial price for to use just for finishing the edge of nylon webbing.

How about using a bench vise instead? That's a tool that might be more commonly found in homes, which would not necessitate a special purchase.

Would the melted nylon stick to the jaws of the vise?

---------- Post added July 14th, 2014 at 11:42 PM ----------

The pin (or an awl with a very rounded end) is great for loosening / repositioning webbing.

Other tools that might be used for loosening / repositioning webbing are a fid (a tool used for knots and splices of ropes) or a marlin spike (typically found on rigging knives or knives aimed at mariners).

Good post. Thanks.
 
Ricky, you can use flip a cookie pan over, take a putty knife and do the same thing. If the nylon sticks to it which is shouldn't, you can flip a compressed air can upside-down, spray it to freeze it and it'll come right off. Bench vice is too slow to press on it.
Loosening webbing, a 3 tine fork with long tines works pretty well too. *Three tine only because they tend to have a bit wider gap than 4 prong
 
Ricky, you can use flip a cookie pan over, take a putty knife and do the same thing.

So heat the edge with a lighter and when it starts to melt, put the webbing on the cookie sheet and cut off the edge with the putty knife? Sounds good.
 
I'm putting a together a OPH at the moment. Previously I've bought a package one (APEKS). At the moment I'm not really seeing a benefit in cost in buying the pieces separate.

Maybe this is because I am buying from dive centres. Where are the best stores to get stainless D-Rings and Glides? I can find losts of places with D-rings, not so many with glides.
 
...//... Would the melted nylon stick to the jaws of the vise? ...//...

Nope, won't stick to much of anything except your fingers and that burns!

So heat the edge with a lighter and when it starts to melt, put the webbing on the cookie sheet and cut off the edge with the putty knife? Sounds good.

Wow, just cut the webbing with scissors, melt the cut edge in a flame and squash between two pieces of metal. If the melted part ends up thinner than the webbing (trimming is fine) then you are good to go.

...//... I'm not really seeing a benefit in cost in buying the pieces separate.

Maybe this is because I am buying from dive centres. Where are the best stores to get stainless D-Rings and Glides? I can find losts of places with D-rings, not so many with glides.

Hi Stew!

OK, draw a pint and sit down before you check prices, but this is who I use:

Harness Hardware Archives « Manta Industries & Highseas Millwork Manta Industries & Highseas Millwork
 
So heat the edge with a lighter and when it starts to melt, put the webbing on the cookie sheet and cut off the edge with the putty knife? Sounds good.

Not quite, you cut it, heat edge with lighter and squish it between the flat part of the putty knife and the cookie sheet. Temps are different enough with a low enough heat transfer that they won't stick and you can flatten the part out tried to squish up. The soldering iron mentioned above can also be used with the webbing on top of an inverted cardboard box and just cut through the cardboard and webbing together in a slicing motion. That works quite well.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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