Be a fan of ScubaBoard.com

Welcome to ScubaBoard, an online scuba diving forum community where you can join over 205,000 divers from around the world discussing all things related to Scuba Diving. To gain full access to ScubaBoard (and make this large box go away) you must register for a free account. As a registered member you will be able to:

  • Participate in over 500 dive topic forums and browse from over 5,500,000 posts.
  • Communicate privately with other divers from around the world.
  • Post your own photos or view from well over 100,000 user submitted images.
  • Gain access to our free classifieds marketplace to buy, sell and trade gear, travel and services.
  • Use the calendar to organize your events and enroll in other members' events.
All this and much more is available to you absolutely free when you register for an account, so sign up today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact the ScubaBoard Support Team.
Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 30
Like Tree6Likes

Thread: Purchasing air tanks

 


  1. #11
    ScubaBoard Enthusiast


    Currently On Land
     

    Peter_C's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Santa Rosa, CA
    Dives
    I just don't log dives
    Maybe I missed it above but hot dip galvanized is my preference. We have a bunch of PST tanks which are no longer made, and my tanks are all Worthington. I prefer bigger tanks myself or a set of double 100's.

    Here is why painted tanks like Fabers suck!
    Steel Tanks - one junk and the other?

  2. #12
    ScubaBoard Contributor


    has no status, but we
    knew that already.
     

    Bob DBF's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Sonoma County, CA
    Posts
    806
    Dives
    I just don't log dives
    Photos
    15
    My preference is steel for the weight it takes off the belt. When I first bought out here, I purchaced AL tanks, I could buy two for the price of one steel and money was an object. I wanted to make two dives without visiting the LDS, which was a trip in itself. As time marched on I picked up steel tanks as I ran across good deals.

    Quote Originally Posted by Peter_C View Post
    Here is why painted tanks like Fabers suck!
    Steel Tanks - one junk and the other?
    It says clearly that it was a repaint and the damage was under the repaint. I have several painted tanks (including 2 Fabers) and one which I repainted myself and have had no issues in their viz or hydro over the decades. I would have reservations when buying a repainted tank but not with a factory issue paint job.



    Bob
    -----------------------------
    I may be old, but I’m not dead yet.

  3. #13
    ScubaBoard Enthusiast


    Currently On Land
     

    Peter_C's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Santa Rosa, CA
    Dives
    I just don't log dives
    Quote Originally Posted by Bob DBF View Post
    It says clearly that it was a repaint and the damage was under the repaint. I have several painted tanks (including 2 Fabers) and one which I repainted myself and have had no issues in their viz or hydro over the decades. I would have reservations when buying a repainted tank but not with a factory issue paint job.

    Bob
    -----------------------------
    I may be old, but I’m not dead yet.
    Next time you are in Monterey, stop in to Aquarius on Del Monte and take a look at the Faber they have. It was never repainted but right where the boot was it rusted beyond usability. Maybe the lesson is don't use boots? Although I like boots on my single tanks.

    So far I have owned around 7 painted tanks of which two Genesis' were galvanized then painted. The rest were just painted and many showed rust.

  4. #14
    Frequent Poster


    Has not set a "status"
     

    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Alaska
    Posts
    58
    Dives
    100 - 199
    Quote Originally Posted by Peter_C View Post
    Next time you are in Monterey, stop in to Aquarius on Del Monte and take a look at the Faber they have. It was never repainted but right where the boot was it rusted beyond usability. Maybe the lesson is don't use boots? Although I like boots on my single tanks.

    So far I have owned around 7 painted tanks of which two Genesis' were galvanized then painted. The rest were just painted and many showed rust.
    actually I think that the lesson is clean your gear properly. I was taught to knock off the boot of a tank and rinse and allow my gear to dry. Which I do at least every other dive.

  5. #15
    ScubaBoard Enthusiast


    Currently On Land
     

    Peter_C's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Santa Rosa, CA
    Dives
    I just don't log dives
    ^ With hot dipped galvanized tanks the risk of corrosion is so minimal there is no need to remove the boot. Plus it takes a lot of effort, as in a big hammer and block of wood to remove the boot. Not something I would want to do as routine maintenance, as I have enough gear to wash. I will agree a quick rinse or dip should be performed whenever possible after salt water immersion.

    I will ask the question, why don't you see painted trailers for boats used in salt water?? I think everyone can pretty much agree galvanized is where it is at. Now I do know someone in San Diego with a galvanized, then painted trailer, for their Team Edition Super Air Nautique.

  6. #16
    Frequent Poster


    Has not set a "status"
     

    cbrich's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Austin
    Posts
    435
    Dives
    I just don't log dives
    This debate is just like any other debate on Scubaboard. There is no right or wrong answer. This has been going on for years. I have owned both kinds, and now all of my steel tanks are of one kind. Galvanize and Painted tanks have their Pros and Cons.
    If I won the lottery, I still will not have enough money for scuba.

  7. #17
    ScubaBoard Enthusiast


    Has not set a "status"
     

    elan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Toronto, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    2,284
    Dives
    200 - 499
    The prive does not mean much

    Different tanks have different characteristics.

    One of the best tanks I have in my fleet I bought for 40 bucks each

    For rec I love lp85 by faber
    You have to ditch the boot. Painted tanks and boots do not live together

    Al 80 are awesome for stages. One stage is good for a 100ft dive on 32

  8. #18
    Registered


    Has not set a "status"
     

    Liquid Pleasure's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Florida
    Dives
    500 - 999
    Go with steel. However, HP120's can be a bit long. It depends on how tall you are and how much gas you need.

  9. #19
    ScubaBoard Enthusiast


    Has not set a "status"
     

    elan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Toronto, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    2,284
    Dives
    200 - 499
    Quote Originally Posted by Peter_C View Post
    ^ With hot dipped galvanized tanks the risk of corrosion is so minimal there is no need to remove the boot. Plus it takes a lot of effort, as in a big hammer and block of wood to remove the boot. Not something I would want to do as routine maintenance, as I have enough gear to wash. I will agree a quick rinse or dip should be performed whenever possible after salt water immersion.

    I will ask the question, why don't you see painted trailers for boats used in salt water?? I think everyone can pretty much agree galvanized is where it is at. Now I do know someone in San Diego with a galvanized, then painted trailer, for their Team Edition Super Air Nautique.
    I think the problem is not with the galvanized tanks per se but with the selection of the galvanized tanks on the market.

    In their line worthingtons lack medium to long tanks in a 85-95 cut range with a length of 26". For people who are about 6' it's a good size IMHO. Also worthingtons are quite negatively buoyant for fresh water if you double them up. Say standard HP100 set will require winter 400 gram undergarment otherwise one will be overweight.

    some faber tanks fill that niche nicely. If they maid them galvanized they would be priceless.

    The double set I love the most is Galvanized LP72. It's light and has enough air. One set and a stage is enough to do too deep rec dives.

    Then I love my wife's LP85s. After that I would take LP 108s which are pigs but they are very stable in the water

  10. #20
    Registered


    Has not set a "status"
     

    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    new england
    Posts
    17
    Dives
    50 - 99
    Photos
    10
    Thanks for all the input I think the hp100 galvanized w/pro valve is the way to go for my situation.

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Have you ever sucked the bottom out of your air tank?
    By Bear Hunter in forum Near Misses and Lessons Learned
    Replies: 95
    Last Post: May 17th, 2006, 03:33 PM
  2. Want to purchase a tank
    By jepuskar in forum Tanks, Valves and Bands
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: August 23rd, 2002, 01:01 PM
  3. Understanding Air Tank Selection
    By MikeS in forum Tanks, Valves and Bands
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: April 26th, 2002, 05:34 PM
  4. Understanding Air Tank Selection
    By MikeS in forum Basic Scuba Discussions
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: April 26th, 2002, 05:34 PM
  5. carrying an air tank
    By MikeS in forum Tanks, Valves and Bands
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: February 20th, 2002, 08:26 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •