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In another thread, I posted that I had played with my 1030sw and a slaved strobe (Ikelite DS125). Because there is no manual mode on the 1030, the images tend to be blown out by the strobe; this issue can be addressed by using the exposure compensation in the camera. In any case, here are some examples (others are in my gallery). I also played a little with an Inon-165 macro lens adapter.
These are straight from the camera and resized, no other editing.
Being in the "handshake" mode in macro will net a fast shutter speed and F5.0. With flash on "fill-in" iso goes to 250. Would this be a useable setup?
I own a 1030sw with housing and im fooling around with all the different auto setups to see if I can produce some "pre-sets" that would work for different scenarios.
Interesting thought, using "handshake" mode. ISO 250 is a bit grainy; f/5 is OK, but no advantage there; but a faster shutter speed might be useful. I need to look at the EXIF and see what shutter speeds the camera was choosing in P mode.
I'm off to Cozumel next month and will play with the "happy snappy" when I'm bored with the E-330.
I think playing with exposure compensation may yield some better results, expecially in open water; we'll see.
Last edited by jlyle; July 19th, 2009 at 02:53 PM.
Actually I just reviewed some pictures that I took last week while free diving and on P mode the whole time, I got 1/400+ at around f/4.1 - 4.5 iso 80. These results were about 20-25 feet of water shooting the top of reef upwards, no flash.
Supermacro at that depth was around 1/60 - 1/100 (of course with no flash on s-macro).
Anyways, since I hold my breath for all pictures, I don't normally see myself going deeper than 30ft unless I go scubadiving (which is less frequent than snorkeling). Any kind of setup that I find works in these conditions I can post and help out. I don't have a strobe yet but will get one soon.
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