Oly 9-18 vs Pana 7-14mm in a Nautilus OM-D?

[Akimbo]

I am trying to decide between the Olympus 9-18mm and Panasonic 7-14mm in a Nauticam housing for the Olympus OM-D and have questions. I don’t have the housing or lenses yet, but do have lots of questions.

I notice the 7-14mm lens is larger in diameter farthest from the camera body. Can the camera with lens be removed from the housing for a battery or memory card change without removing the port? It isn’t clear to me how the zoom gear engages the lens. I “assume” the Olympus 9-18mm can. Please correct me if I am wrong.

How does the zoom gear engage the lens? Does the zoom gear have to go on before the lens is installed on the camera? Can the zoom gear be removed from the back or front of the housing?

I know the Panasonic 7-14mm is an excellent lens and requires the Nauticam 6" dome port. The smaller size of the Olympus 9-18mm with 4" port is pretty tempting for travel and handling. The 4" port can also be used on more lenses, though I currently don’t have plans for any. I have no plans for these photos beyond personal use. I am less concerned about the extra ~$250 for the 7-14mm lens and port than the size. I know it is hard to make a compromise like this for someone else but I would like to hear your thoughts.

Either lens will need two strobes to be really happy. I am considering two Sea & Sea YS-D1s — one with fiber-optic sync and the other on slave. Would two sync cord be more reliable for TTL?

My current thinking is to get that expensive Nauticam flat port for my Olympus 12-50mm IF I wanted to get into macro. I don’t plan to make that jump anytime soon though.

Comments and suggestions welcome, thanks.

 

[BoltSnap]

When you use synch cord = no TTL. You can only have one synch. cord port on the housing, so you have to use the synch cord with dual strobe connections from S&S. Also, AFAIK, the slave function on the D1 needs a fiber optic cable connected to the housing or to the other strobe. If you were thinking in terms of the old slave strobes that need only to pick up the flash of the light without cables, it doesn't seem to work anymore.

The zoom gear is always installed on the lens before the camera/lens goes into the housing. The port stays on since you remove the camera with the lens and gear from the back of the housing.

There are many threads here on the 7-14 vs 9-18mm lens. After reading all of them, I am swayed to the opinion that for U/W use, 7-14mm is the best but the 9-18mm is used topside.

 

[Akimbo]

When you use synch cord = no TTL. You can only have one synch. cord port on the housing, so you have to use the synch cord with dual strobe connections from S&S. Also, AFAIK, the slave function on the D1 needs a fiber optic cable connected to the housing or to the other strobe. If you were thinking in terms of the old slave strobes that need only to pick up the flash of the light without cables, it doesn't seem to work anymore….

Yeah, my frame of reference is from the film days. All I have to go by is the Nauticam manual and photos so please bear with me. Are you saying that the two holes on the housing’s optical fiber mount accepts only one cable, the YS-D1 strobes and camera only work with one sync cord to the camera, or something else?

To make sure I have this straight, the dual strobe connection is:

Nauticam NA-EM5 <--- Fiber-optic sync cable ---> YS-D1 (#1) <--- Fiber-optic sync cable ---> YS-D1 (#2)

Do you run dual Sea & Sea YS-D1s? If so, I have questions about weight and strobe arms. The specs say the strobes weigh 0.5g/0.02oz (with batteries) in the water (I assume salt water). How is the weight in water on the housing with 6" port, 7-14mm, and two YS-D1s? I would “think” the Nauticam with 6" port would be a little buoyant so there would be no need for displacement strobe arms. I prefer housing as close to neutral as possible.

What strobe arms do you use?

…The zoom gear is always installed on the lens before the camera/lens goes into the housing. The port stays on since you remove the camera with the lens and gear from the back of the housing….

Thanks. The manual only shows the body being installed in the housing and then the port with no mention of the lens of zoom gear. I thought I read that the lens and zoom gear may also be changed by removing the port or does the camera have to be removed from the housing to change lenses? I am in the mode right now where competing specs make me easily confused.

…There are many threads here on the 7-14 vs 9-18mm lens. After reading all of them, I am swayed to the opinion that for U/W use, 7-14mm is the best but the 9-18mm is used topside.

I think I read most of these threads but there was little mention of size and weight comparisons underwater. It sounds like the 7-14 is a great lens and the 9-18 is a really good lens. I think the 7-14 will be fine for of my topside work since it is mostly below deck and in chambers so filters don’t matter.

 

[Wisnu]

I thought I read that the lens and zoom gear may also be changed by removing the port or does the camera have to be removed from the housing to change lenses? I am in the mode right now where competing specs make me easily confused.

I think I read most of these threads but there was little mention of size and weight comparisons underwater. It sounds like the 7-14 is a great lens and the 9-18 is a really good lens. I think the 7-14 will be fine for of my topside work since it is mostly below deck and in chambers so filters don&#8217;t matter.

Yes, With Nauticam you can change the lens with or without removing camera, and replace the port. Very easy.
7-14mm is good glass, use for topside as well.

 

[BoltSnap]

The connections for the optic fiber cable on the housing are different from the connection for the synch cord.

There are two "holes" at the front of the housing that would only accept fiber optic cable, nothing else. If you want to use the synch cord, you will have to pay addition fee to get a synch cord bulkhead installed (there is already a provision in the housing body for it) and connect the synch cord to it. If you want to operate the two strobes with a synch cord, you will have to buy the:

Sea & Sea Dual Sync Cord (SS-03470) | Bluewater Photo & Video


The S&S YS-D1 can accept either type of cables no problem.

You need to connect both YS-D1 strobes to either the synch cord or fiber optic cable. If fiber optic, there is a "hole" for each strobe (total of two holes) on the housing. If synch cord, there is only one bulkhead on the housing so you need the "splitter" or Dual sync cord cable.

I haven't used the WA lens yet, I just got everything recently. I have been using the 12-50 lens with dual D1 strobe and it is negative for sure.

If you want to change the lens (and port if needed), then no need to open the housing from the back and remove the camera. You can do it by removing the port and removing the lens while the camera is still in the housing.

I hope that this makes it little less confusing for you.

 

[bvanant]

I think the OP was planning on using fiber optic cables and in that case, two would be far better for TTL than one and one in slave mode.
Bill

 

[BoltSnap]

If planning on using only fiber optic cable, two will be required in ANY case for the TWO strobes no matter how you are going to connect them or configure them. The slave function in the YS-D1 strobes requires the use of the fiber optic cable!!!

If you want to use the traditional "electronic" sync cord, you will need to buy the following part (don't forget to order the adapter):

Nauticam Single Nikonos 5-pin Bulkhead with Nikon Hotshoe Connection nau-25013 | Bluewater Photo & Video

 

[Akimbo]

I plan to stick with fiber-optic sync cables only, not electrical sync cables. The M16 accessory socket on the housing will be used for a vacuum port, sensor, and alarm. Avoiding electricity and salt water is high on my list anyway.

Can both strobes be connected to the housing’s two fiber-optic ports rather than one strobe being set to slave? It would be a plus if both fiber-optic sync cables were the same to simplify spares… like this one: Nauticam Sea & Sea -> Sea & Sea Fiber Optic Cable

 

[BoltSnap]

The Nauticam housing already has sensor and alarm built in.

What is a "vacuum port"?

---------- Post added January 27th, 2013 at 04:26 AM ----------

Yes, each strobe will have one of these optic fiber cables to connect to the housing. When you are using these optic fiber cables, the strobe is actually set to "slave" mode.

 

[Akimbo]

The Nauticam housing has a water leak sensor. This describes a vacuum leak system.

An insurance policy to replace your flooded equipment is prudent, but does not restore your lost opportunity when the flood happens early on an expensive trip. Another form of insurance that makes me less stressed during every dive with a housing is a vacuum leak detector:

Probably the most expensive is the Gates Seal Check

These are from the UK:

Hugyfot Underwater Camera Housings

Leak Sentinel

Basically you use a manual or DC powered vacuum pump to lower the pressure in the housing below one atmospheres. A pressure switch activates an indicator light and/or an audio alarm if the pressure increases above a pre-set vacuum. That allows you to press and rotate all dynamic seals before hitting the water. Some have an integrated liquid sensor as well.

The possibility of a slow leak is dramatically reduced because the lower density of air will leak sooner than water and dynamic seals can be tested. A vacuum will leak air at low differential pressure long before water at 300' in the vast majority of O-ring failures.

They make a lot of sense if your camera is expensive, the camera is essential to your dive trip, or you are really stressed over a leak. Unfortunately, this does not help flooding strobes or lights, but the probability of their leaking is lower. Using one of these reduces the rated working depth of the housing by ½ to ¾ of an atmosphere. They are all fairly expensive, but everyone defines &#8220;priceless&#8221; is different ways.

I am not sure which one I will use or what I will have to do to make it fit, but I will use one. I ordered just the housing today so I can start working on that before making a final decision on lenses and ports. I may also make my own. I have found a small vacuum pressure switch. Not much more is required beyond a battery and an LED. I&#8217;ll post something when I get it sorted out.