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I'm considering purchasing one of Matthias Heinrich's Oly TTL converters http://www.heinrichsweikamp.net/blitz/oly2nikone.htm so that can use my 5050, pt-015, YS-90DX setup in TTL mode. I'm wondering if anyone has used this device and what kind of results they've gotten?
Thanks, I just ordered it. I've heard all the complaints about TTL but I'm just not intuitive enough with the strobe settings. I need to take one variable out of my control so that I can focus on the others. I'll be using with only one YS-90DX initially. Hope to add a second later this year if I can scare up the money. I'll report on my results later.
Thanks, I just ordered it. I've heard all the complaints about TTL but I'm just not intuitive enough with the strobe settings. I need to take one variable out of my control so that I can focus on the others. QUOTE]
I understand your position on simplifying your UW photography, but I almost fell out of my chair when I read that you are willing to give up control of one of the most fundamental aspects of photography....Exposure! And put all trust in the electronics?
Yes we can walk and chew gum at the same time. Our diving skills should be second nature, camera focusing is automatic (most cameras, mine is still manual), Composition.... all made up before the dive and also second nature, Exposure.... the way we control the light. All this combine is the difference between the Professional and the Amateur.
But I am an amateur. And right now my exposure control is too hit or miss. I imagine that someday, after a lot more shooting, I'll begin to develop a significantly greater understanding of exposure and will want to retake control. But right now worrying about shutter speed, aperture and composition is enough for me. It's not that I don't appreciate what good photographers do. It's that I understand I'm not one of them.
But right now worrying about shutter speed, aperture and composition is enough for me. It's not that I don't appreciate what good photographers do. It's that I understand I'm not one of them.
Same for me...
I've bought 5 or 6 books about photography and UW photography as well and I found them very useful. At least to understand theory. The point is managing all those settings in a matter of seconds when we're down there.
Personally speaking I've excluded aperture (that I keep fixed to f.8 to increase DoF) and ISO (80 when the subject's close and strobes illuminate it, 200/400 when using ambient light only). Speed: well ...its value affects only the background's colour.. but if you shoot the right way (that's aiming to the surface everytime and including the sun in one of the picture's corners) you can set the right speed by metering the sun itself and setting a central metering mode.
Once you've done it you will be shooting without any concerns about speed and you can focus on the strobe. Than the only factor I consider is the distance from the subject, and subject's or background colour.
It takes practice, but I guess you won't have to struggle against 25 settings every shoot you're taking.
..camera focusing is automatic (most cameras, mine is still manual), Composition.... all made up before the dive and also second nature, Exposure.... the way we control the light. All this combine is the difference between the Professional and the Amateur.
I love the way you explained how to find the correct values for strobe and camera, even if it's pretty much different from my approach. I am printing your post to read it carefully during the weekend (it's raining here).
I start from maximising DoF then taking care of other settings consequestly because I consider shots not perfectly on focus as shots to be deleted immediately. I mean focusing is my first concern. Most of the times DoF is wide enough to keep everything on focus (using central spot focus before composing, of course) but this becomes a problem the more you get close to the subject (expecially in macro mode as you say). Since I had a 28 mm lens on land in the past (more or less 40 mm UW) I mainly took macro shots ..as many beginners do .. now I'm moving to ambient photography also and maybe I'll have to change my approach. Sure I will consider what oyu suggest in you latest post.
Anyway I'd like to understand why you're keeping shutter speed so slow.. 1/15 means having a very bright background even in dark conditions at f.8, doesn't it? When I meter aiming at the sun from below I usually find values between 1/125 or 1/250 sec that make the backgroud deep blue and the sun small and white in the corner...
Sure those values are taken in sunny days and tropical seas...so I was just wondering if your values refer to other conditions or whatever..
Thanks guys, this is a very interesting post uh!
How much does the Matthias Heinrich's Oly TTL converters sell for? On the web site it wasnt in English.
I asked to pay in USD. The price was $171 including the plug for the fitting and shipping.
Incidentally, shipping was very quick. I ordered on Tuesday and it arrived yesterday morning. Unfortunately, I was already on my way out the door for a dive so no chance to set it up. I will give it a try next week and report back.