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All things considered, this is a good place to go if you like pelagics. I'd suggest a stay of at least 10 days due to the travel time in getting there.
Diving
14 dives over 5 ½ days. Sites included Ral Island, Nusa Blowholes, LI house reef, Matrix, Lemus Island, Kate plane wreck and Nozaki’s Secret (mandarin fish spot) in Kavieng Harbour, Albatross Channel, Dannie’s Bommie, Kavin II, Planet Channel, Eagle Ray Passage, Diversion Drop-off. You can see the Lissenung website for general descriptions of the dive sites – I think that site is very accurate about LI, in general..
The outer sites in channels (Albatross and Planet Channels, and Eagle Ray Passage) into the Bismarck Sea apparently are dived only when the current is going in. These sites are wall dives, with the sandy bottom at maybe 120 feet or so. Lots of pelagic action here, including eagle rays, whitetips, one blacktip, schools of barracuda and batfish, tuna, and loads of the usual reef fish at the top of the reefs. Albatross is the area’s “signature” spot, and had good marine life, though I thought that Planet Channel was our best dive – actually, I thought that Planet Channel was one of my three best dives ever.
One diver was attacked by a good-sized triggerfish at Dannie’s Bommie. No damage done to fish or diver, and a great source of some pretty funny comments for the two days following the event.
We saw one or more whitetips on every dive except at the house reef, Ral Island and near Kavieng Harbour. One or more eagle rays on at least half of the dives.
Lots of small stuff (nudis, crocodile fish, cuddlefish and more) and good coral at Ral Island; it’s very tiny, and a shallow dive (less than 30’), but quite nice. This dive is so shallow that you could do it in the morning of the day preceding the day on which you fly out. Some good coral and nudis at other spots, and beautiful fans in many places.
Current generally was not an issue (because some sites just are not visited – and rightly so -- if there is heavy current), but it certainly could be. The worst current was during the safety stop at Eagle Ray Passage, where you hung onto the anchor line and looked like a flag in a high wind.
I'm not good at estimating visibility, but would say that it is 40-60 feet at most sites -- a bit more at Ral and Nusa Blowholes. Comparable, and maybe a bit better, than in Gulf of Papagayo CR, and not nearly as clear as Coz on a good day.
Overall, I thought that the diving was excellent.
The divemaster (Nozaki) did a good job of pointing out fish and other things. On the occasion when we had a newer diver in for her first dive at LI, a second DM was added and he dove solely with that lady and her husband.
The divers were able to make suggestions on dive sites, and those suggestions were considered; the determining factors seems to be current and tides, and Dietmar or Nozaki would say if those factors prevented us from going to one place or another. There was absolutely no emphasis on just going to the closer-in sites – I always felt that Dietmar and Nozaki picked the best available sites, no matter the distance from the resort.
The ride time to dive sites ranged up to about 45 minutes, and generally was less. We used the twin-engine boat for all dives except those to Ral Island and Nusa Blowholes. It is fast and very comfortable for at least nine divers. Entry is giant stride, one at a time, but that usually was not a problem. The boat does not have a radio or GPS, but the boat drivers seem to be pretty good mechanics if there is a problem. I have no idea of the logistics of adding the radio. There was only a smallish camera bucket on any of the boats; that’s surprising, because almost everyone is taking pictures.
Non-diving Parts of the Resort
The resort picks you up at the Kavieng Airport on arrival and takes you back there when you leave.
Dietmar and Ange are fine hosts, and very accommodating. The staff was friendly and helpful.
Meals are good, with lunch and dinner alternating between seafood and chicken. The staff will prepare special meals for you, if requested to do so.
Rooms are simple but comfortable. There is no A/C; the ceiling fan does a decent job of cooling, but it is hot and humid – temps are better after a good rain, and we had two or three of those. Bathroom plumbing works well, with good pressure. There is no hot water, though, and my post-dive and other showers tended to be pretty short. Rainwater is the main source of water, though there is a backup source (which wasn’t used during my stay).
Internet for guest use is available in the office. There also is a wireless feature, though its reliability was more questionable.
My take is that virtually all resort guests are pretty experienced divers. I believe that most resort guests are European, with a lot of Germans. I was the only person from the US. But, because of the world’s ESL bent, language was not an issue – plus, perhaps diving promotes a certain comraderie.
I too found great diving off New Britain. It is so hard to get to but well worth the effort. Nice report, I met Deitmar at Loloata once he was quite cordial. Friends of ours have dove off Lissenung as well and thought it was great. It's true what you've said about Port Moresby.
I have been to Lisseneung numerous times and loved every trip there. The diving is fantastic and the resort has a great feel to it. If you really want to see what the area has to offer sign up for one of their exploratory trips. We did it last year and the japanese wrecks and midget submarine in three islands harbour on its own was worth the trip not to mention all the other great dives. I like the fact that the diving is so varied with high energy current dives surrounded by pelagics in the morning and a muck dive in the harbour looking for mimic octopuss in the afternoon, can't get much better really!
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