my first regulators

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

bas1

New
Messages
4
Reaction score
0
Location
Belgium
# of dives
25 - 49
hello everyone,

As you can see I am new to diving, less then 1 year of experience and 27 dives. I was able to use the equipment available to me at home but needed my own regulators. As you all know diving is expensive, especially for students like me.

So i bought my first regulators secondhand.
I would like to tap in to the expertise of the members of this site to:

1: determine the quality of the regulators and how i should set them up
2: tell me that the price I paid was good or bad.

I bought:

1x MK 20
1x MK 16
1x S600
1x R380
1 console containing manometer, compas, and suunto viper.
1x "hose" for attaching to jacket.

the goods are 8years old and did about 300 dives. they look verry good & don't fit. Not yet tested during dive

main system: MK20 & S 600 with console
back up system: MK16 & R380 with jacket hose.

next week i will be allowed to go to 30meters, these regulators are for recreational use in fresh & salt water with the sole purpose of guaranteeing my survival. Will they do the job ?

I paid 300 euro's, hoping i didn't get ripped off...

please enlighten me
 
300 Euros = approx. $430 USD
The gear is well used, but, assuming that all of it is ready to be dived now (don't have to overhaul/service the regs), that price is very reasonable.

Are you using an H-valve or diving doubles?
The reason I ask is that you listed two 1st stages in the lot of gear.

Here in the U.S., a used reg (one 1st stage + two 2nd stages) can cost around $80-$120 to overhaul, incl. parts and labor.
A completely functional, used Suunto Vyper sells for $200-$250 on Ebay.
The Scubapro S600 is a pretty desirable 2nd stage. It's has a breathing adjustment knob which people seem to like. A used but functional S600 sells for $150-$200.

FYI, in 2006, Aqualung USA issued a recall on the yoke/DIN retainer of the MK20. Replacement of the part can be done by an authorized Scubapro dealer and shouldn't cost anything. I'm not sure how relevant this info might be to a European customer. I think that some of the recalled units did originate from a factory in Italy. :idk:

Another thing you might want to be aware of is that the 1st stages aren't environmentally sealed. This might leave them more predisposed to free-flow in cold water conditions (below 10°C).
I've had some buddies who have taken their MK25 1st stages (later evolution of the MK20) on dives featuring water temps in the mid 40s °F (approx. 7°C). They didn't have any free-flow problems. YMMV.

All things considered, you probably got a pretty good deal. Enjoy the gear...
 
Last edited:
300 Euros = approx. $430 USD

Are you using an H-valve or diving doubles?
The reason I ask is that you listed two 1st stages in the lot of gear.


Another thing you might want to be aware of is that the 1st stages aren't environmentally sealed. This might leave them more predisposed to free-flow in cold water conditions (below 10°C).

Thank you for reassuring me.

I use an H valve, here in Belgium it is obligatory to have 2 breathing devices, each on a different first stage. So you have 2 attachments to your scuba tank.

Free flow can indeed be a problem here in the winter, this is one of the reasons we are bound to have 2 separate scuba tank exits & first stages & regulators. I keep diving in winter with 3-4°C water temperatures.


the S600 especially has multiple adjustable knobs. should i just put them in the middle and let them be ? In what situation should i adjust / use them ?
 
the S600 especially has multiple adjustable knobs. should i just put them in the middle and let them be ? In what situation should i adjust / use them ?
It depends on a lot of things -- reg-tuning, presence of current, whether the 2nd stage is my primary or my backup, water temperature.

Venturi or VIVA lever
On my primary reg, I keep the Venturi lever in the pre-dive/"-" position while at the surface and switch it to the dive/"+" position during the dive.
On my backup reg, I keep the Venturi lever in the pre-dive/"-" position almost all of the time.

Breathing/Inhalation Adjustment Knob
I tune my adjustable 2nd stages so that, when they are at the easiest breathing adjustment (adjustment knob turned all the way out), the reg is just shy of free-flow. This correlates to a cracking pressure of about 1.0 inch of water (inches of water is one standard measure of cracking pressure, a.k.a. pressure which needs to be exerted to begin airflow). For most of my dives, while using my primary reg, I just leave the adjustment knob there (easiest breathing position) so long as airflow doesn't begin too easily at depth. If I'm swimming into a current, I might have to increase the cracking pressure slightly by turning in the knob a little. I tune my backup reg to the same 1.0 cracking pressure as my primary. However, during a dive, I keep the breathing adjustment knob on the backup reg turned about half of a turn in.

I normally dive in water temps that get down to about 50°F (10°C). The settings above are what I use in my water temps.

If I were diving in your winter water temps (3-4°C), I'd probably leave the Venturi/VIVA levers in the pre-dive/"-" position at all times. I would probably tune both my primary and backup regs to a slightly higher cracking pressure (1.2-1.3 inches of water). I would also adjust the i.p. put out by the first stage to be 120-125 psi. At those cold water temps (3-4°C), I'd also start using good "cold water regulator technique" (not breathing the reg on the surface, not inflating BC or drysuit while breathing, etc.). I'm not trained to operate in water that cold. If I were you, I'd ask some experienced local divers what they do to prevent reg free-flows in those conditions. Unfortunately, they'll probably recommend that both of your first stages be environmentally sealed. I believe that the Scubapro MK-17 is one example.

Hope this answers your question...
 
I use an H valve, here in Belgium it is obligatory to have 2 breathing devices, each on a different first stage. So you have 2 attachments to your scuba tank.

You sure about this. We have many divers popping over the border to Holland and many have standard single reg sets.
That aside. The regs are great. They will serve you well in the Belguim and Dutch waters. I do ice dives with my Mk25's and never had a free flow yet. People often get cold related freeflows confused with water entry free flows where you just turn the reg down and it stops. Hence the breathing controls on the S600.
I have in the house between me and the missus.....
7x Mk25's
1x Mk2
1x Mk20
2x R395
1x S555
2x GV250
And one very shiney A700
Only had one free flow and that was with my old Aqualung Titan LX cold.
 
You sure about this. We have many divers popping over the border to Holland and many have standard single reg sets.

I am sure that here in Belgium you have to have 2 seperate tank exits with separete first stages and each equiped with a breathing device.

new regulations sure make it more expensive,
but you cant put a price on your safety...
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

Back
Top Bottom