60" primary pulling uncomfortably (continued from DIR subsection)

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travelrider

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I have a 60" primary Miflex hose that routes under my arm and around my neck. It's pulling very uncomfortably. So far suggestions have included increasing my hose length to 7 feet, ditching the Miflex, and possibly adding a swivel.

Any other suggestions?

Note:
I originally started a thread in the DIR section about my primary hose pulling uncomfortably and creating jaw fatigue quickly. Someone mentioned a swivel as a possibility and then another user responded that the swivel suggestion did not belong in the DIR section and suggested we move the thread.

So, in the interest of me getting ALL possible suggestions and not just DIR suggestions, I'm continuing this thread here.

Original Post Here: http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/dir/401537-60-primary-hose-pulling-uncomfortably-2.html#post6108896
 
The reason for the swivel not being DIR has practical reasons.

A swivel is an additional (and unnecessary) failure point.

A swivel will make donating the regulator more difficult

Here is why: The easiest way to donate your primary regulator is to grab the hose near (but not at) the regulator with your right hand, finger nails towards your face. Then, thrust the hand forward, while rotating the lower arm counterclockwise until the regulator is on the right of the donating hand. This swift, fluid motion will put the regulator "in the face" of the OOG diver in the correct orientation. The OOG diver can easily grab the regulator body without the donor's hand being in the way. With a swivel, you have no control over the position of the donated regulator relative to the hose in the donor's hand. Keep in mind that the donor's left hand will be busy with the light or with putting the backup regulator in his/her mouth. A rigid hose connection is the best way to increase the reliability of the one-handed donation process.
 
Have you tried changing the position of your tank in relation to your bc? With a 5' hose, I've notice that I need to set my tank pretty low in order to the 2nd stage end to wrap around my neck comfortably.
 
Have you tried changing the position of your tank in relation to your bc? With a 5' hose, I've notice that I need to set my tank pretty low in order to the 2nd stage end to wrap around my neck comfortably.

I think you might mean set your tank pretty high; that effectively shortens the distance that the hose has to travel, at least for most divers.

I think the problem that the OP is having basically comes down to the unfortunate fact that 5' is a little too short for the modified hogarthian routing for many divers. For me it's great on my doubles, where the post is on the right, and a smidgeon short but still okay on singles. That's with a reg that has an end port (which effectively adds a few inches to the hose length) and I'm not a large person.

Switching to a 7 foot hose is not the answer, because that length is designed to rout under a canister light, and it's really only necessary for single file air sharing through restricted passages. The answer is to get a hose that's somewhere between 5' and 6', and that's a custom hose. I would start by getting a hose coupler (a few dollars at a place like divegearexpress) and put together two hoses of varying lengths until you find what works best. If you're not the paranoid type and you're willing to risk the extreme danger (hehe) of an additional 2 o-rings, you can leave it at that and dive. If you want a more permanent solution, simply measure the hose combination that's best and order a hose that length. I know you can find them in standard hoses, and I suspect the braided hose companies will likewise make them to order. Or you could take a leap of faith and just order a 5'6" hose.

I've brought this up before and been soundly criticized for my advocating diving with a hose coupler. Really, I don't know how we all seem to survive the highly treacherous sport of recreational diving. :D

I also realize it sounds like a bit of work to use the long hose, but IMO it's worth it. The open water long hose routed in this manner is streamlined, very comfortable, works very well with either a bungied alternate or (gasp...) an octo inflator, and makes air sharing MUCH more relaxed and simple.
 
Since you still route the 5' hose under the right arm, how on earth would setting the tank higher shorten the distance the hose has to travel? Setting the tank lower means the regulator is set lower on the back as well. This reduces the distance the hose has to travel down the right side of your back before you can route it under the right arm.
 
Are the valve and 1st stage in the optimum positions to route the hose properly?

I used a 5 ft for a long time. I never had any pull, but I did not like the way it crossed the light on my right shoulder nor the way it was positioned at my necklaced second. I ordered a 5-6 hose and it works perfectly. I just need to adjust the length when it comes from under my arm..I don't keep it tight to my armpit.

I would ditch the miflex for the primary hose. I use miflex for my inflator hose and my necklace only. The inflator hose has to kind of serpentine from my first stage to the inflator. The hose for my secondary has to make a tight turn. But the primary makes nice sweeping turns and miflex is not needed and is possibly a problem by many accounts. I've also heard from my LDS (which sells miflex) that they have had complaints from people who say the miflex chafes the back of the neck when used as a long hose.

I'm 5-11 and 190. Been as heavy 210 or more.
 
Problem solved, at least for me. I did two things. I bought the Sea Cure II mouth piece and changed my hose out to a good old fashioned rubber 7 footer. I did a test dive tonight in the swimming pool and it made all the difference in the world. Not sure if I needed to do both but I am a happy camper. As for the extra hose, I'm just going to tuck it under the webbing where the canister light would normally be.

Not a DIR solution, and I know - I'll have to give an OOA diver my molded mouthpiece, but that's their penalty for running out of air and ruining both of our dives.

Thanks for everyone's suggestions! Your input definitely helped me decide what to do.

This Sea Cure II is great!

HogWithSeaCure2.jpg
 
The biggest problem with the SeaCure mouthpieces is the length of the flange, which can gag and choke some divers. If you trim the flange a little shorter, you avoid that issue.
 
Since you still route the 5' hose under the right arm, how on earth would setting the tank higher shorten the distance the hose has to travel? Setting the tank lower means the regulator is set lower on the back as well. This reduces the distance the hose has to travel down the right side of your back before you can route it under the right arm.

You're right, but for some reason I remember moving the tank up on a couple of students and friends and that made it work better. I guess it was because they had the tank so low that moving it up still didn't put it high enough so that it had to go down, it just put the valve closer to their armpit. I get your point, though!
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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