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Like the others, I too am a cheap bastard so I do not have the latest version of Xcel, can you post that in an older version?
If you (or anyone) PMs me with an email address where you can receive PDF files and I will try to send you a copy of my annotated drawings.
Viton and EPDM have very long shelf lives and that's why they are a better choice for us DIY guys than Nitril or most rubber based seal material. Viton is more expensive but has more consistency in the hardness from one o-ring to the next. Silicone is good in applications where you will not need any lubricant, but in addition to being a cheap bastard, I like keep things simple by stocking as few different materials as possible.
Matt, the S-wing poppet is probably a -oo1 1/2 …very hard to find so I have been using a -002 and as yet no problems. I do not have any scrotum type regulators, but if the poppet o-rings are slightly larger than the G250 poppet o-rings, then in all probability they are -002. I'll bring some to you on the upcoming FGB trip.
Not to be outdone on cheap by the amateurs above, I don't have any excel (or office) SW. How about a good old .txt file? I could probably spring for .pdf
I have a list that I started based on a consolidation of different things I found on the net and put them into an excel spreadsheet (attached).
Sweet O-ring chart.
To the OPs original question: Nylock nuts are a jamb type nut. The nylon inside the nut acts as the threads and when screwed onto the correct size threaded post the grooves cut into the nylon act as a lock washer or jamb nut. It only works once, then the mater looses its resilience and you also gouge some of the nylon out in the first run so there is not enough the hold a second time, thus defeating the purpose of the nut. These are place holder nuts, not load bearing.
If the self locking nut is not white insice, I suspect that they are not nylon, but possably an oxygen compatable material. As long as you don't dive any mix over 21% O2 it sould not make a difference. Rebuild away.
If you are being cheap and you dive Nitrox or mixed gas, changing to run of the mill hardware in a regulator is not very smart. Not only are you installing non-oxygen compatable materials, common hardware is not clean and has left over hydrocarbons on it from the manufacturing process. My statement only holds for the first stage. The second stage is on the low pressure side and unlikely to be subjected to adiabatic heating.
Does anyone know if the locknuts discussed here in this thread (18-8 Stainless Steel Nylon-insert Hex Locknut 5-40 Thread Size, 1/4" Width, 9/64" Height) are a SCUBA industry standard size? I have Oceanic regulators and have rebuilt them once with the annual service kits. I am considering getting the EPDM sheets, punch, and locknuts from McMaster. I have an old locknut from the rebuild and could go measure it I guess but I figured I'd ask if anyone knew if this size is the same for other regs.
Awap,
Been MIA for a spell. Been working on a hell of alot of regs and actually doing some diving. The text file and the MS Excel 97-2003 version is attached. Feel free to add to it as it is a work in progress. Enjoy!
Dive Safe
(Dive Within Your Training)
And only work on your gear if you are trained to do so and have the right tools.
Red Sullivan http://www.bluewaterdiving.com
Does anyone know if the locknuts discussed here in this thread (18-8 Stainless Steel Nylon-insert Hex Locknut 5-40 Thread Size, 1/4" Width, 9/64" Height) are a SCUBA industry standard size? I have Oceanic regulators and have rebuilt them once with the annual service kits. I am considering getting the EPDM sheets, punch, and locknuts from McMaster. I have an old locknut from the rebuild and could go measure it I guess but I figured I'd ask if anyone knew if this size is the same for other regs.
I measured a nut from one of my Oceanic Delta 3's and it is the same size as noted above. I am thinking that this size is probably somewhat of an industry standard. The nut size on the Oceanic Delta 3/4 and Alpha 7/8 are all the same size.
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Originally Posted by cbmech2
Not only are you installing non-oxygen compatable materials, common hardware is not clean and has left over hydrocarbons on it from the manufacturing process. My statement only holds for the first stage. The second stage is on the low pressure side and unlikely to be subjected to adiabatic heating.
