SP MK5 rebuild ?

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HenrikBP

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So I've finally worked up the courage to rebuild one, maybe two late-model SP MK5 regulators and of course have a few questions ...

I have read both regulator rebuilders "bibles" and have exploded diagrams of both MK5 and MK10, including Couv's excellent MK10 diagram with std. o-ring size annotations, as well as the service manual for the Oceanic PX2 - an MK5 clone I believe. Thanks Couv!

1) does anyone have an annotated diagram of the MK5 o-rings similar to Couv's MK10 diagram?

The 2 regs are similar on the outside with 2 x std. size HP ports and 5 std. size LP ports.

I have the 2 regs apart and all parts cleaned and noticed some differences in the internals.

2) One piston shaft is very slim and light, the other one has a fairly thick and solid base. Which one is the newer version, and which one would provide the best performance - not that I expect there to be a big difference, just curious?

3) One reg has a new version yoke retainer that takes a cone shaped filter, the other is an older version that takes the flat filter. My LDS can't even get the cone shaped filter except in full rebuild-kit form. Can the flat filters be found anymore?

4) if no flat filters, what are the odds of finding a "universal" yoke retainer that will work with an MK5?

5) I have an MK10 that whistles with each breath, and I know from the excellent contributors here on SB that it is usually due to lack of lubrication of the piston shaft HP o-ring and that o-ring durometer could be a contributing factor. So might a size -010 85-durometer viton o-ring help prevent whistling? (Viton just because it's what I happen to have on hand - not due to any O2 compatibility concerns).

6) I got a DIN connector along with one of these MK5 regs. eBay seller said it was for the MK5, but it is the newer version that seals at the bottom. I've read the threads here about these - that they won't work, especially not with the MK5 saddle. But it looks like it might work without the saddle and with an o-ring at the top of the threads. I seem to remember someone trying, but can't find the thread - so will it work?

7) of the 2 turret retaining bolts, one has a few nicks and in the nicks it looks like it's brass under the chrome. The other one is spotless. None of them are magnetic. Other than scratching the spotless one as suggested in the MK5 service diagrams, is there a way to determine if it is stainless or brass?

8) Any word on a new batch of SS turret bolts?

9) How about these torque specs? for the turret bolt: 100 - 120 in/lbs? For the yoke retainer: 23 - 25 ft/lbs? For the DIN "retainer": 16 - 18 ft/lbs?

10) I'm guessing the seat retainer cap and the ambient chamber get screwed in place just tight enough to stay in place?

11) One reg had no plastic spacers in the ambient chamber, the other had 2 in white/clear plastic - very thin. Are these spacers there to adjust IP or are they just to keep the steel spring off the chrome in the ambient chamber?

I'm sure I'll have more questions, but I'll stop for now :wink:

Thanks in advance,

Henrik
 
Last edited:
Like I said ... more questions :)

- the reg with the 2 shims have a white "1" seat. The other no shim reg have a red "2" seat. How does those number compare with the new service kit numbers of "+", "-I" and "-II" ?

As far as I know the shims are used to get the spring pressure and thereby the IP in close, and then fine tune the IP with the seat selection.

Henrik
 
So I've finally worked up the courage to rebuild one, maybe two late-model SP MK5 regulators and of course have a few questions ...

I have read both regulator rebuilders "bibles" and have exploded diagrams of both MK5 and MK10, including Couv's excellent MK10 diagram with std. o-ring size annotations, as well as the service manual for the Oceanic PX2 - an MK5 clone I believe. Thanks Couv!

1) does anyone have an annotated diagram of the MK5 o-rings similar to Couv's MK10 diagram?

Sent….I must have missed out the MK V on my last mailing to you

2) One piston shaft is very slim and light, the other one has a fairly thick and solid base. Which one is the newer version, and which one would provide the best performance - not that I expect there to be a big difference, just curious?

Someone in another thread mentioned that the piston with the thicker base was designed to stop the piston from over travel and help prevent over engraving the hp seat. I cannot see how this would really work all that well as it might in fact lead to run away IP.

3) One reg has a new version yoke retainer that takes a cone shaped filter, the other is an older version that takes the flat filter. My LDS can't even get the cone shaped filter except in full rebuild-kit form. Can the flat filters be found anymore?

Yes, the flat filters are still available if you only need one or two, send me a snail mail address and I'll try to get you a couple.

4) if no flat filters, what are the odds of finding a "universal" yoke retainer that will work with an MK5?

I think the MK V has a different yoke retainer than most SP regs.

5) I have an MK10 that whistles with each breath, and I know from the excellent contributors here on SB that it is usually due to lack of lubrication of the piston shaft HP o-ring and that o-ring durometer could be a contributing factor. So might a size -010 85-durometer Viton o-ring help prevent whistling? (Viton just because it's what I happen to have on hand - not due to any O2 compatibility concerns).

Yes, but if you can get a 90 duro that might even be better. Matt swears by the 90 duro polyurethane o-rings, so you may as well give them a try while you're in there. Sometimes the whistling comes from the area between the piston and the hp seat. I think SP tried to address this with the concave seats.

6) I got a DIN connector along with one of these MK5 regs. eBay seller said it was for the MK5, but it is the newer version that seals at the bottom. I've read the threads here about these - that they won't work, especially not with the MK5 saddle. But it looks like it might work without the saddle and with an o-ring at the top of the threads. I seem to remember someone trying, but can't find the thread - so will it work?

Ask Awap this question, but I think he's might be in CZM right now.

7) of the 2 turret retaining bolts, one has a few nicks and in the nicks it looks like it's brass under the chrome. The other one is spotless. None of them are magnetic. Other than scratching the spotless one as suggested in the MK5 service diagrams, is there a way to determine if it is stainless or brass?

If you know one is brass for sure, weigh it and compare it to the other.

8) Any word on a new batch of SS turret bolts?

Good question.

9) How about these torque specs? for the turret bolt: 100 - 120 in/lbs?

No way….the diagram show: 35 in lbs for the brass, 70 in lbs for SS…..and I think LuisH has mentioned that these figures seem high.

For the yoke retainer: 23 - 25 ft/lbs? For the DIN "retainer": 16 - 18 ft/lbs?

Yoke retainer 275-325 in lbs, …so yes, I think 23ft lbs is about the same, I would guess the DIN to be the same, just as it is on the MK 10... but still that seem high…where is Luis when we need him?

10) I'm guessing the seat retainer cap and the ambient chamber get screwed in place just tight enough to stay in place?

I screw these down until they bottom out, it will affect the IP if you do not.

11) One reg had no plastic spacers in the ambient chamber, the other had 2 in white/clear plastic - very thin. Are these spacers there to adjust IP or are they just to keep the steel spring off the chrome in the ambient chamber?

IP adjustment….I think each washer is worth about 4psi

12)the reg with the 2 shims have a white "1" seat. The other no shim reg have a red "2" seat. How does those number compare with the new service kit numbers of "+", "-I" and "-II" ?

As far as I know the shims are used to get the spring pressure and thereby the IP in close, and then fine tune the IP with the seat selection.

SP has changed it's hp seat design lots of times over the years. I like to start with no shims installed in the ambient chamber and try to bring the i.p. in spec using just the different sized newer hp seats. If no joy, then I add shims as needed.


Couv
 
Couv, you just Rock man. Thank you!

I'll call a couple more semi-local shops and see what I can scare up for parts and filters. Thanks for the offer.

Weighing the turret bolt [slap forehead] - genious. I'll get the scale out.

Torque specs for turret bolt: Thanks for the warning. I got that number out of the Oceanic manual - which may very well be talking about a steel bolt. I didn't see any specs in any of the service documents I have. I'll read through what you sent me.

I was planning to tighten down the ambient chamber and seat retainer until they bottom. What I meant was that I wasn't going to crank them down hard. The ambient chamber is being held in check by the spring and the seat retainer have an o-ring helping with friction.

Thanks again Couv. It'll help me get started. Just need to build a manometer and I'm good to go :)

Henrik

Sent….I must have missed out the MK V on my last mailing to you

Yes, the flat filters are still available if you only need one or two, send me a snail mail address and I'll try to get you a couple.

I think the MK V has a different yoke retainer than most SP regs.


If you know one is brass for sure, weigh it and compare it to the other.

9) How about these torque specs? for the turret bolt: 100 - 120 in/lbs?

No way….the diagram show: 35 in lbs for the brass, 70 in lbs for SS…..and I think LuisH has mentioned that these figures seem high.

10) I'm guessing the seat retainer cap and the ambient chamber get screwed in place just tight enough to stay in place?

I screw these down until they bottom out, it will affect the IP if you do not.
Couv
 
Had some time to look at the MK5 this weekend;

- my 2 turret bolts are identical; 5.5g and 5.7g, so both are brass

- my torque wrench is 40 - 120 in. lbs. Darn - now I'll have to go tool shopping ... :) I'm thinking something like this would be appropriate:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...=Auto+&+Mechanics+Tools&sName=Torque+Wrenches

- a 3/8" socket is indeed the tool to seat the HP seat o-ring. I know the schematic says so, but I was just happy about how easy it made seating the o-ring.

Henrik
 
Put the MK5 back together with new bits from a service kit as well as a few new o-rings from my spares:



I picked seat size "-1" since it was the closest in thickness to the size "2". The IP is 135 PSI - rock steady. No creep or drift. 1 hour under pressure and the IP is still 135 PSI - yay :)

My in.lbs. torque wrench goes down to 40 in.lbs. (I know - it's not accurate that low), so I dialed it down another full turn to a supposed 30 in.lbs. and very gently torqued the turret bolt after adding a tiny dap of blue Loctite to the threads.

So I'll get a chance to dive my new-to-me doubles on the last dive weekend of the season.

I'm very excited about this reg servicing thing - as you can probably tell :D About time I got some use of all the scuba tools I bought.

A Huge!! thank you to all the sharing and knowledgeable SB members who got me started on this and have provided invaluable knowledge and advice.

Henrik
 
Well done....that other post is looking a bit naked....time to get started on another reg :D.

Couv
 
This any better :D



I think it's pretty cool with the MK10 and MK5 next to each other showing how alike they are (the MK5 is a very late model):



The only think I'm not crazy about is how the HP hose seems to get in the way of the valve handle.

Henrik

Henrik
 
Looking at the second picture, it looks like I can turn the MK5 1st stage a bit more clockwise and get the HP hose out of the way of the valve. Looking forward to trying it all out in a couple of weeks.

Henrik
 
Very nice.....but how do you dive them with no straps? ....sorry, "Harness" :D
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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