Beginners course servicing Regs and other Stuff

[Gudu]

Hello there.
I just gotertified on rental Gear. I do have a bunch of used stuff which has not been dve for at least 2 years and \i would not feel comfortable diving with it untill I know for sure it works as it should. I prefer to do this all myself and would definitely consider taking a Gear repair/refurbishing class if there is one in my area.

Would really appreciate to hear from experienced Divers what sugestions they may have.

Thanks in advance ----------Gudu

[couv]

Hello Gudu,

Welcome to the Dark Side.

Tell us about your regulators. What make and model?

Generally, you can start here: http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/regulators/346813-regulator-inspection-checklist-rev-7-a.html to determine if your regulator(s) are fit to dive. Then, go to http://www.frogkick.dk/manuals/ and download the manuals for your regulator.

Next, get a couple of books:

Vance Harlow's (Oxyhacker on Scuba Board and elsewhere) "SCUBA Regulator Maintenance Repair." SCUBA REGULATOR MAINTENANCE AND REPAIR by Vance Harlow & The Scuba Tools book, "Regulator Savvy" are excellent. Scuba Tools

Vance's book is written more with the DIY guy in mind, the Scuba Tools book will give you a good grounding in the technical aspects; I recommend having both.

[Gudu]

Hi there,
The first stage says SHERWOOD,made in USA also marked with SRB5100. The second stage says BRUT and a number B512874. I dont have an alternate at this time.

Thanks also for the advice which Books to buy, will start ordering today.

Thanks again-----Gudu

[NotSure]

Hi Gudu, I took a quick glance at the section on Serwood regs in the Vance Harlow book couv mentioned and you'll be pleased to hear that he says Sherwood regulators are "easy to work on ...and cheap to service". I also looked on Frogkick and they do have the service manual for you regs. I found it interesting that Sherwood first stages are designed to leak air into the ambient chamber for balancing purposes, so if you pressurize you regs and submerse them a slow leak may result even if the are working properly. I think you may find the old threads on this board to be your most valuable resource. Every time I have a question I just search the archives and find answers by the formost experts in their field. You've definitely come to the right place to get started.

[Gudu]

Hello NotSure,
Thanks again. Just ordered my Book. For anybody else considering the same, Amazon offers the VH Scuba Regulator Maintenance for110.**used but on can buy the same Book new from airspeedpress for only 50.** Whow.


Thanks again-----------Gudu

[axxel57]

The Sherwood Regulators are generally quite easy to work on, I guess also for beginners.
Problem with Sherwood is that they raised the spare part prices last year incredibly.
If your flow restrictor screw is blocked (and that happens quite easy), so no air can pass through it into the main spring chamber and bleed into the outside, there is no adaption of the IP to depht. Together with the filter you probably are in with about 20.-US$ only for those components. If the orifice has a problem and you cannot fix it, it will probably cost you 16.-US$ or more, the diaphragm cover (yellow or dark might cost you around 40.-US$ and so on if you have to buy it new.
So part prices of Sherwood are probably the most expensive ones on the market for the moment. Make sure that you only need an ordenary overhaul kit and not more parts, otherwise I would consider to check for another brand on e-bay with more reasonable parts prices like Scubapro, Aqualung or others. Thanks for reading.......

[herman]

The Sherwood Regulators are generally quite easy to work on, I guess also for beginners.
Problem with Sherwood is that they raised the spare part prices last year incredibly.
If your flow restrictor screw is blocked (and that happens quite easy), so no air can pass through it into the main spring chamber and bleed into the outside, there is no adaption of the IP to depht. Together with the filter you probably are in with about 20.-US$ only for those components. If the orifice has a problem and you cannot fix it, it will probably cost you 16.-US$ or more, the diaphragm cover (yellow or dark might cost you around 40.-US$ and so on if you have to buy it new.
So part prices of Sherwood are probably the most expensive ones on the market for the moment. Make sure that you only need an ordenary overhaul kit and not more parts, otherwise I would consider to check for another brand on e-bay with more reasonable parts prices like Scubapro, Aqualung or others. Thanks for reading.......

A blocked bleed will not prevent the reg from depth compensating, all it will do is to allow water into the spring chamber. Over time this will cause corrosion problems but it will not have an immediate impact on reg operation.

[axxel57]

Okay Herman, so how is this type of first stage compensating for depht then?
No increased water pressure will help to increase the IP in the system while descending.
Normally the air which passes through the flow restrictor screw will do the job of the water. If no air passes through the flow restrictor an increased inhallation effort will be the result at depht because the IP is not keeping up with the demand at increasing dephts. Thanks for reading....

[Afishianado]

1st stages don't compensate for depth. Well most don't ...maybe the Sherwood does, but I don't work on Sherwood regs. Generally speaking, 1st stages do not depth compensate.

[elan]

1st stages don't compensate for depth. Well most don't ...maybe the Sherwood does, but I don't work on Sherwood regs. Generally speaking, 1st stages do not depth compensate.

So you are saying that the intermediate pressure measured relative to the ambient pressure will be dropping with depth?