Strobe problems

[gypsyjim]

Any one else having problems getting their Sealife strobe to work with their camera? I have a DC500 that I purchased new with the "Pro Pack", but it has never worked well, even after returning it to Sealife to upgrade the pickup for the flash link. This is my second Sealife camera, after my first UW toy, a DC100, and I thought that I was stepping up into better UW digital photography with this package. In many ways I am really only a little better off with the DC500 than my old DC100, if I can't use the strobe!

Every time I decide to try again, and check everything out on land it works ok. BUT once I'm UW the darned thing fails to flash correctly and I end up removing the flash link and resetting the 500 to onboard flash. ALWAYS end up pulling the strobe off after the first dive of a trip and spending the week diving with just the point and shoot's simple flash.

I am getting more and more frustrated by this.

[SeaLife Joe]

Gypsyjim,

have you verified that you have the latest firmware on your camera? If you visit our website and go to the technical pages, you will see DC500 updates that may help with the problem you are having. SeaLife Cameras - Underwater Cameras and Accessories

Let me know how this goes.

Joe

[gypsyjim]

Sent you a PM with photo to verify firmware earlier. Looked it up threw web site and it seems to be 1.12 PIE, from '06, which is, I believe current?

Tried checking to see if strobe is in syc with the camera, using instructions from the site also. Strobe and camera do syc both with the camera aimed at the pick up, exposed, and then and aimed at the end of the flash link itself.With both these methods the camera showed the flash working, BUT when I go underwater the Strobe and link suddenly, she no work!!!

Don't know what else I can do. Would like to try returning it to you guys to test in water, if possible?

[wreckgirl250]

I am having the exact same problem. I even got a 2nd strobe and it is happening with that one too. I dive in NJ and I thought the cold water had something to do with it. Last summer it worked perfect on the surface and then underwater, no flash. Let me know what you find out and how to fix it. I also have the DC500.

[DandyDon]

Every time I decide to try again, and check everything out on land it works ok. BUT once I'm UW the darned thing fails to flash correctly ...

I am getting more and more frustrated by this.

I can imagine the feeling. I thot I might try to help work thru this with discussion...

To check it out on land, I would suggest...
1: Test the batteries on a meter for charge? Got strong load?
2: Turn the strobe on, watch the capacitor charge up, then switch to Test. Fires?
3: Hook it up to the camera as if getting ready to dive, turn the strobe on, watch the capacitor charge up, then shoot a pic. Fires?
4: Watch the capacitor recharge, when glowing, shoot again - repeat. Fires each time? A full test would involve shooting until your camera battery fails, but you get the idea.
5: If you did shoot 100 pics or until the camera battery fails, the strobe batteries should still test good.

Problems I have caused myself have included not allowing the capacitor time to recharge between shots, knocking the flashlink lose from the spot on the camera, knocking the flashlink lose from the spot on the strobe, and worse.

Sent you a PM with photo to verify firmware earlier. Looked it up threw web site and it seems to be 1.12 PIE, from '06, which is, I believe current?

I think that's right.

I am having the exact same problem. I even got a 2nd strobe and it is happening with that one too. I dive in NJ and I thought the cold water had something to do with it. Last summer it worked perfect on the surface and then underwater, no flash. Let me know what you find out and how to fix it. I also have the DC500.

And if the above doesn't expose the cause, can you find someone with the same camera kit to dive with...?

An additional note about the capacitor: You understand what I mean by that? I think confirming that it has recharged and glowing between shots is kinda essential. Also, be sure to discharge it always before opening the battery door.

[gypsyjim]

I can imagine the feeling. I thot I might try to help work thru this with discussion...

To check it out on land, I would suggest...
1: Test the batteries on a meter for charge? Got strong load?
2: Turn the strobe on, watch the capacitor charge up, then switch to Test. Fires?
3: Hook it up to the camera as if getting ready to dive, turn the strobe on, watch the capacitor charge up, then shoot a pic. Fires?
4: Watch the capacitor recharge, when glowing, shoot again - repeat. Fires each time? A full test would involve shooting until your camera battery fails, but you get the idea.
5: If you did shoot 100 pics or until the camera battery fails, the strobe batteries should still test good.

Problems I have caused myself have included not allowing the capacitor time to recharge between shots, knocking the flashlink lose from the spot on the camera, knocking the flashlink lose from the spot on the strobe, and worse.

I think that's right.

And if the above doesn't expose the cause, can you find someone with the same camera kit to dive with...?

An additional note about the capacitor: You understand what I mean by that? I think confirming that it has recharged and glowing between shots is kinda essential. Also, be sure to discharge it always before opening the battery door.

The little glowy orangy light thingy, right?
Yep, that is not the problem, though, thanks DDan

I went to the S.L. web site and did the strobe sync tests, I believe #19 on their list of checks and upgrades:

Fire up strobe and remove optic fiber link, aim camera flash at strobe pick up, with camera set to "Remote Flash" and take picture. Picture will show strobe flashing if they are in sy, which worked.

I then re attached flash link to the strobe and repeated the above test, this time aiming at loose (camera) end of the flash link. Again camera captures the strobe flashing, so far so good.

The next test is underwater. This is the step where I take the rig under the water, try three, four or five times to take anything but black non photos, remove the flash link, de select "remote flash", and continue shooting as regular point and shoot W/ onbard flash till I return to the surface where I promptly remove the strobe assembly completely, in a fit of controlled burn. This test gives the same results every time! Zip, Zero, Nada!
This test shows that I am either very very stupid, or there is something wrong with the rig as it is set up. If the former, then I need further instructions. If the latter I'd like it fixed

[DandyDon]

This test shows that I am either very very stupid, or there is something wrong with the rig as it is set up.

I dunno? I have felt pretty dumb about some of my goofs. You've done the text book testing; now try my farmboy approach, ok...?

1: Test the batteries on a meter for charge? Got strong load?

2: Turn the strobe on, watch the capacitor charge up, then switch to Test. Fires?

3: Hook it up to the camera as if getting ready to dive, turn the strobe on, watch the capacitor charge up, then shoot a pic. Fires?

4: Watch the capacitor recharge, when glowing, shoot again - repeat. Fires each time?

[sabbath999]

The next test is underwater. This is the step where I take the rig under the water, try three, four or five times to take anything but black non photos, remove the flash link, de select "remote flash", and continue shooting as regular point and shoot W/ onbard flash till I return to the surface where I promptly remove the strobe assembly completely, in a fit of controlled burn. This test gives the same results every time! Zip, Zero, Nada!
This test shows that I am either very very stupid, or there is something wrong with the rig as it is set up. If the former, then I need further instructions. If the latter I'd like it fixed

OK, try this.

Take it to a pool. Go to the deep end. Shoot one picture at every foot of depth from one foot above the surface to the bottom of the pool, waiting 30 seconds between shots on freshly charged batteries. Shoot pictures of the white walls of the pool, at one foot away (set focus to infinity, we don't care if it is in focus).

Those picture shouldn't vary one bit. If they do, then you have a defect in the system.

[gypsyjim]

I dunno? I have felt pretty dumb about some of my goofs. You've done the text book testing; now try my farmboy approach, ok...?

1: Test the batteries on a meter for charge? Got strong load?

2: Turn the strobe on, watch the capacitor charge up, then switch to Test. Fires?

3: Hook it up to the camera as if getting ready to dive, turn the strobe on, watch the capacitor charge up, then shoot a pic. Fires?

4: Watch the capacitor recharge, when glowing, shoot again - repeat. Fires each time?

Other than the meter test for battery strength I have done all that, and several times, and with several fresh sets of battys.
Won't hurt to test them, but don't think the answer's going to be there. thanks Don

OK, try this.

Take it to a pool. Go to the deep end. Shoot one picture at every foot of depth from one foot above the surface to the bottom of the pool, waiting 30 seconds between shots on freshly charged batteries. Shoot pictures of the white walls of the pool, at one foot away (set focus to infinity, we don't care if it is in focus).

Those picture shouldn't vary one bit. If they do, then you have a defect in the system.

Interesting idea: I'll have to try that. Have to find an excuse to visit a PADI pool session somewhere...

[DandyDon]

I think he's having a problem with the strobe not firing S999, not the pics, but then your test could also ID a failure point...?

As common as Sealifes are, one would think they could find others whose camera work fine to test dive with, comparing actions and results. I sold my old DC310 to my dive buddy, then several months later we went to Santa Rosa NM for practice diving - and he had done nothing to prepare. Sitting in the pickup with wetsuits on, he hurriedly replace dead batteries with fresh ones, then - neither of us could remember how to get the screen to light up. After several minutes of frustration, I opened the housing to try it without and noticed the problem: "Oh yeah, it has a manual lens protector! Let's open that!

Now we both dive DC500s with flashlink strobes.