I was given a vintage steel cylinder. Will I not be able to use it?

[Bones4]

I was given a vintage (60's?) cylinder recently. It has some surface rust, but I easily removed some with sand paper. The remaining (20+ year old) air had no taste. I assumed it may be usable, so I took it to one of my local dive shops. He said it looks okay, but stopped when he looked at the neck. I was told that this cylinder has an "outdated" design and is no longer allowed for scuba use. He wouldn't even do a visual inspection. I called another dive shop and was told they have no knowledge of such design. Anyway, I'm uploading a few photos so maybe you can make some sense of this and I can find some definite closure.

Edit: I've seen some "newer" cylinders using similar J valves, so I'm confused as to how this cylinder is any different.

 

[ktomlinson]

It looks like a steel that I have... The thread size is just different than new tanks. Find out what places hydro tanks in your area (not the dive shop, the actual place that does the hydro) and have them take a look. Dive shops sometimes make stuff up.

 

[j yaeger]

...because they sell tanks....
1/2"tapered thread
i use mine almost every day!
find another shop
just my 2cents
have fun
yaeg

 

[halocline]

So nice to hear that the helpful professionals at yet another dive shop are clueless about vintage tanks. These folks are, of course, the ones we need to turn to for annual inspections in order to keep us alive. Your tank is probably a walter kidde (tough to see, but look for a K in a circle by the original hydro stamp) LP72 "bump bottom" tank with a 1/2" tapered valve. The same yah-hoo so helpful with the tank would probably tell you that the valve has since been outlawed as well, but you can easily find someone to service it.

The bump bottom design is the series of castellated "feet" on the on the bottom of the tank that lets you stand it up without a boot; a very nice feature. I have a similar tank but with a 3/4" standard valve, and it's probably my favorite tank. Yours might be galvanized with lots of dings through the galvanized finish or it might not be. Either way, get it inspected by someone who actually knows what he/she is doing. Visual on the interior first, to make sure there's no corrosion inside. If it looks good, a hydro test is next; it will almost certainly pass but you will not be able to get the "plus" rating unless you have an unusual tester who is willing to calculate the REE #.

Then, if it were my tank, I'd strip off the paint and coat it with ZRC galvilite cold galvanzing compound. That stuff works great.

Its a really nice tank that many vintage gear enthusiasts would find especially desirable due to the bump-bottom.

 

[Jim Lapenta]

Your shops are run by idiots or very greedy people. I have two tanks with that neck from 53 and 55. The valve is a little different but the ones on yours can be rebuilt and will work just fine. Just saw that yours are babies. They're not even 50 yrs old! Original date on the one looks to be 1967. Direct your shop owners to this thread and ask them if they will use the vaseline and kiss you before giving you any more of their "knowledgeable advice" !

 

[duckbill]

Your cylinder is obsolete, and the valve requires special tools to remove which that dive shop probably does not have. Please don't throw it away though, as I'm sure I could use it for something.

 

[Bones4]

Thanks for the replies. Another almost local dive shop said it would be no problem to test and use it. Thank goodness.

Your cylinder is obsolete, and the valve requires special tools to remove which that dive shop probably does not have. Please don't throw it away though, as I'm sure I could use it for something.

Are you joking?

 

[Jim Lapenta]

Yes he is. He wants you to send him a perfectly good tank so he can dispose of it properly. Like in about another 50 years after he, his kids, and his grandkids have used it. It could very easily last that long. BTW if those shops told you that what other BS have they pulled on you? Think about it. I would not be going back to either one.

 

[herman]

Welcome to the board and to vintage diving. Like the rest have said, the tank is fine, assuming it passes hydro which it will most likely do. It may need tumbling to remove any minor rust that is inside but that is a common thing with steel tanks. A little interior rust is not a big deal.

A little board savy for you, notice the smilie at the end of his comment. It indicates he was kidding.

Now that you have the proper tank, you need a good double hose reg to go with it.

 

[duckbill]

Are you joking?

Well......yes, and no.

Yes, it is not obsolete in the full sense of the word, and, yes, the dive shop probably does have tools to remove the valve, but is likely too lazy to drag out the chain vice and teflon tape or hassle looking into the small opening. They're just spoiled by the "modern" 3/4" valve openings. Keep in mind that 1/2" openings were the standard before the 3/4" valve came out, and all those cylinders got serviced just fine, and still are by customer-oriented shops.

And, no, don't throw it out. You have a small treasure there. Congrats.