steel 72 value

[dhwelder92]

i was given a steel 72 or at least i think thats was size it is, but i brought it to a dive shop and was told it would cost more money to fix it than its worth, it has a j-valve on it and i was told that it would need to be replaced, if so i have a extra valve unless its different threads, is anything they told me true or should i bring it to another dive shop, and i dont really know whet year it is but the last hydro stamped on there is from 80

 

[smorneau]

You should also request that when the tank get hydro'ed that it gets plus(+) rated for 10% more gas, otherwise you will only have about 65 cubic feet of gas without the (+) rating. If the LDS says they can't, check with another LDS or gas supply company.

 

[skyguy94]

You can find valves cheap off of eBay, and the hydro shouldn't be more than 35-40 bucks. I think that getting tank for less than 80 dollars is worthwhile.

 

[Scared Silly]

What you were told was BS. There is nothing wrong with using a J valve if it is serviceable (i.e. can be rebuilt) - just put it in the down position and use it as you would a k valve. The first question though is the valve 1/2 NPT or 3/4" NPS. If you can see threads is it 1/2 NPT otherwise it is 3/4" NPS. You can actually buy new 1/2" NPT valves as they are still made by at least one company. 3/4" NPS used are a dine a dozen (okay not really but easy enough to find at a fair price).

The requalification (i.e. hydro) should run $20-$30 and a visual inspection $15 - $20. Note you can take a cylinder to the hydro shop yourself and have them run the test (if a shop arranges it for you they tack on their expenses - rightfully so but if you want to save a bit). I doubt that you will be able to get the + unless the hydro shop has the necessary REE limits or can run the calculations (most do not).

I would check with another shop - tell them you are getting a cylinder back from hydro and want to know if they can rebuild the valve and do the visual. Some shops do not like 1/2" 72s regardless.

 

[smorneau]

I have the REE numbers for LP72's for PST tanks. I you want them PM me with your email and I will send them to you.

 

[halocline]

Unless the tank is a PST, it's likely that you will not be able to get the plus rating, but that shouldn't stop you from using it. Lots of places will fill that tank to 2500 PSI even without the + rating. The easiest way to find out if it's worth keeping is to look inside with an inspection lamp. If you see a blistered plastic coating or large, deep-looking rust spots, then it might be difficult to get it in good condition. But, if it looks relatively clean inside, maybe with a layer of flash rust, it's a breeze to tumble or brush the tank and get it hydroed. Anyone who has even a modest understanding of steel tanks understands this; unfortunately, that doesn't seem to include the person you spoke to at the dive shop.

The j-valve is almost certainly rebuild-able for a few dollars in parts. If you don't want a j-valve, there are doubtlessly some vintage divers that would trade you a k valve, maybe throwing in a valve rebuild for a small fee. If you're anywhere near vintagedoublehose (check their website) you can probably get some excellent advice and help there.

For shallow shore dives, I use LP72s more than any other tank. They have an excellent combination of buoyancy (neutral), weight (only 26lbs empty!), and capacity (almost that of an AL80) that is very difficult to find with modern tanks.